Modify the receiving end of an engine stand. U shaped bracket to span differential housing and pinch clamps on the tubes of housing. Depends how Lo.g you make the legs of the U if you'll be able to rotate it 180 or 360 *. The engine stand already will flip it 360 if its tall enough. A few outriggers will steady it for some tugging. If you really need to do some bull work on it youll need to chain it or clamp it down on a heavy table. Speedway sells this, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Assembly-Stand-for-9-Inch-Ford-Differential,2612.html You should be able to expand on that idea. A quick Google search will bring others to hold an axle in an engine stand.
With Kodak flopping around belly up now guess it's finally time I left traditional film for history and get schooled on on the ways of digital stuff now. Will borrow a camera and see what I can do, might take a bit of time to get it all figured out though. Maybe faster I was the older I get, but slower I am as I proceed... Ed
Hey Ed, just grab some kid with a cell phone, most these day have built in digital camera's in them and they can even send the pic's via email to you.
Just recently visited a shop where a guy was restoring an early E type Jaguar and saw he had utilised an mobile telescopic transmission stand to mount his Jag IRS on while he was working on it. I did not have a camera with me to capture the moment, however he told me it worked a treat.
I use 4"x4" blocks and cut a hole through them (3 1/2") making a u one one end for storage and set up for the housings
I used my welding bench without the top recently, worked out real nice but now the top is on, so I'll have to figure something else out.
I took a set of industrial wire shelving (the kind that drops over 4 poles / caster wheel assembly). The metal wire shelving was 2 foot by 2 foot size, snip a few wires for clearance, bolt axle assembly to shelves with lug nuts and you have an axle stand that's pretty stable and allows the yoke just enough to not scrape the floor. Works great for painting, just dont use your fresh painted drums.
Still wondering what is out there for holding a diff similar to an engine stand that will work. I plan to make up something but just dont have the inspiration/idea to run with...
Take a look thru this link to see a couple of good diff stand/holding device for early Ford diffs. If somebody has the computer ability to copy them and post them as pic's I am sure it would be appreciated by future viewers of this thread. http://www.ocmafc.org/techarticles/T...0Re-Edited.pdf
Well I use the speedway holder for thr center section and also need to find a better way for the complete rear assembly. When your older and have a bad back it makes it really hard to get around some of this hobby
I hear you on that point. That is why I started this thread to get as many ideas as possible for my own diff holding device. What ever I decide on will be a fold away or dis-assemble style or attach to my engine stand etc...
We made some stands using brake drums from a freight truck as the base.Then we welded 4 or 5 inch scrap drive line tubing to the drums.For the saddles we found some "mistake" U-bolts that are 3/4 " in diameter.
I like the K.R.Wilsons diff and trans holder for the KRW engine stand. Very universal and allows you to lock it in all kinds of positions.
For moving the diff in and out of the car a motorcycle jack works really good Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I believe a copy of Barn Find T's diff stand should be included in this thread. <TABLE id=post8930229 class=tborder border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #e5e5e5 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #e5e5e5 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: #e5e5e5 1px solid; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; BORDER-RIGHT: #e5e5e5 0px solid" class=thead><!-- status icon and date --> 05-24-2013, 09:01 PM <!-- / status icon and date --></TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #e5e5e5 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #e5e5e5 0px solid; BORDER-TOP: #e5e5e5 1px solid; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; BORDER-RIGHT: #e5e5e5 1px solid" class=thead align=right> #1886 </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #e5e5e5 0px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #e5e5e5 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: #e5e5e5 0px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: #e5e5e5 1px solid" class=alt2 width=175>Barn Find T<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_8930229", true); </SCRIPT> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE id=post8930229 class=tborder border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #e5e5e5 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #e5e5e5 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: #e5e5e5 1px solid; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; BORDER-RIGHT: #e5e5e5 0px solid" class=thead><!-- status icon and date --> 05-24-2013, 09:01 PM <!-- / status icon and date --></TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #e5e5e5 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #e5e5e5 0px solid; BORDER-TOP: #e5e5e5 1px solid; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; BORDER-RIGHT: #e5e5e5 1px solid" class=thead align=right> #1886 </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #e5e5e5 0px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #e5e5e5 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: #e5e5e5 0px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: #e5e5e5 1px solid" class=alt2 width=175>Barn Find T<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_8930229", true); </SCRIPT> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Similarly, this from oldgoaly<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_8947758", true); </SCRIPT>
Not really a stand, however recently I made a diff trolley/cradle so I can wheel it in and out from under the car and store it easily without all the man handling of the old days. My back is not special and I could see trying to un-install this diff to paint it etc was ot going to be easy. Now I can just put a garage jack under the diff for support, unbolt it lower it down onto the cradle and wheel it out in any direction I so choose. I made just high enough off the floor so with brake drums on it wont scratch and due to the horse shoe shape, I can also get my garage jack in from the back and under the diff quite easily.
Here is mine. It's made from scraps and leftovers The other picture is a top I made for my floor jack to install rear ends
use a cheapie 1000 pound u shaped engine stand and welded 2 2x4 tube extension legs off the faceplate on a angle so they are 24" apart at the ends and 18" aways from the face plate and then welded 2 4" truck muffler clamps on the ends so all I do is load the housing on the face plate bolt the u bolts to the clamp bases . and hoist it to the stand can do almost any automotive and light truck axle . for ford pigs I have the OTC ears which I can do 9" to heavy truck rears on . to get them in place we use a trans jack that we modified to bolt a 2x4 cross tube to 2 2x2 tube uprights on that have the clamps on the tops so we can rotate the axle if needed .
I use 3/4 inch plywood cut into the same circumference as the tires and drilled to match the bolt pattern I am going to use on my rear end. That way I can roll it under the car and center in the wheel well. The stand pictured is what I use for overhaul and panting. Works for me............Terry