Do you want to use this primer for finish coat? Or for primer under a paint job? PPG DP primers are great products for acid etch, souther polyeurethanes SPI have god reviews here but I haven't gotten to use them yet. If you want a flatblack topcoat, john deere blitz black has good reviews
Why do you need durable primer? Primer is meant to have paint put over it....not a top coat. If you are looking for a primer to seal out moisture and prevent rust from happening it would be an epoxy primer. Just know if the vehicle spends a lot of time in the sun it will start to get chalky. Primer doesn't have uv stabilizers in it. If your going for the flat black, red wheel trip, get some flattened single stage eurathane. The blitz black stuff will need to be striped off the car should you ever chose to paint it another color
From years of experience and my moniker ..primers are not very durable. Epoxy primers will hold up the longest,I love the look of a fresh coat of red or black primer but after a few months in the sun & a few washes it fades quickly. My 32 pickup has Kirker Hot Rod Black semi gloss on it and has held up extreamly well for the last 7 years,it's pretty reasonable. HRP
As far as a favorite black primer, and again, I do put something on top, is 5 Start Hotrod Black. Easy to use, mixes 1 to 1 with ascetone, covers nice and easily sands. The Kirker Black as mentioned is a good top coat.
Maybe 'most' epoxy primers don't have any UV protection added. Southern Polyurethanes Inc. Black epoxy primer DOES have UV inhibitors added.
I've used SPI epoxy primer in the past and can assure you it doesn't hold up a bit better than any other epoxy black primer. Primers are not finishes.HRP
Use the SPI Matte Black urethane, you can adjust the sheen by using more or less of the hardener. Killer stuff and it is a true top coat urethane. Have shot a few gallons on my own and customer cars and all my customers love it. Ya take care of it just as you would shiney.
I can't say when your 'past' was nor can I say 'When' they started adding them, but UV Inhibitors have been added to the Black (only) epoxy for the last year or two. At least that's my understanding. It's still not a top coat...
be carefull with the "jd blitz black"in the aerosel cans ! on 2 ifferant instances- i had single cans explode{it didnt rip the metal /it blew the top out } in my shop /once all over a tool chest ! it was not hot or cold !! plus i cant imagine what everybody raves about it ?? i think krylon is the best paint out there {never had one explode !!}
Only problem with that stuff Tommy, is your fingers get tired after 20 or 30 cans. Ole sayin --- If yer gonna do it, do it the right way or don't do it.
Thank you all for advice. just looking to give the ride a clean finish for the summer while I save up the cash for paint. I rescued this 39 Buick from someone that painted it hydrant yellow and proceeded to paint all chrome and trim apple red, lt's been a bitch stripping off the red. Will post flicks when I'm done
^^^This, has been the staple for small parts, detailing , etc, for many years. Always had good results with it.
More like 2 IMO. These pistol grip spray can things are a must for any sort of lengthy rattlecanning:
If you use any paint instead of primer, you will likely have to remove it before a nice paint job. I would use a black epoxy primer. I have used both DP90LF and SPI epoxies. SPI is by far the best. It is also quite a bit less expensive. Sands way better. It has a very low gloss to it which acts like a guide coat when sanding. It looks pretty good and will last for at least one summer of driving. It will then be ready for painting with a quick sand job.
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