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Chrysler Total-Contact Brakes - anyone know much about these?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Flat Ernie, Jul 29, 2005.

  1. 35desoto
    Joined: Oct 6, 2009
    Posts: 775

    35desoto
    Member

    Can't help you on the parts but I would like to add my 2c worth. In a lot of cases Mopar wheel cylinders have a habit of seizing if not used on a daily basis - why I do not know however our solution down under is to stainless steel sleeve the wheel cylinders and for some miraculous reason the problem goes away. It stops the cylinders from not returning - allows a balance pressure to be applied and thus avoiding the "grabbing" issue. And this is regardless of whether it is being used daily or parked up and used spasmodically. We had a 57 Desoto parked in a paddock for 18 months that we were dreading starting up again - once it fired the brakes released and it braked as though it was brand new - the only difference in the brakes was the sleeving of the wheel cylinders - no cast iron actually involved in the piston area so therefore no possibility of corrosion.
     
  2. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor


    I do have a set. I might even be able to get to them...got them on eBay several years ago - I was thinking just like you were - they'd be perfect with the Buick drums. But I never followed through and decided I'd probably do the F2/250 backing plates with my Buicks on my '40 (which I also never followed through on).
     
  3. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,873

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA

    OK- I'm going forward with this- bought the brakes from Flat Ernie. I'll take your advice 35desoto and sleeve the wheel cylinders-

    Bruce- I'll see if I have the following issue on the spindle use- hoping it'll fairly straight forward adapting them to the ford spindles.

    These are going to rule with buick drums! I can't wait to try this-

    Tuck
     
  4. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,873

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA

    UPDATE:
    Got the backing plates-

    First step is to machine the spindle to match the dust shield.

    Second step- tig holes on spindle shut-

    Third- transfer holes from backing plate to spindle- and redrill spindle holes.

    Then- once they're mounted- I need to check drum alignment- so far it looks pretty good- using the 45 fin BUICK's - but if they need to move in I may have to machine some spacers that go between the hub and the drums to move them in a bit- hard to tell at this point until the backing plates are on.

    the pads and the surface area of the drum are 2 3/4" wide- this things gonna STOP.

    Tuck
     

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