Technical Advanced metal shaping - where the hell should I cut this ?

So I've been pondering this for a day or two now and can't figure the best place to cut this. The quarters are pinched hardest at about 6" from the trunk opening. That spot is about 32" from the pillar and 25" from the tail.

The upper bead needs or should follow a smooth curve from the pillar down and back to the tail pan and from all visual cues should be out to equal or over the lower wheel bead Not this roller coaster Tilted in crap. The wheel lip bead follows a real nice line with the side of the car, I'd say its within 90% of being correct.

I'm pretty sure ill wind up with a long Ellipse or cats eye patch.

My problem is the the compound curve from trunk opening to bead seams quite nice now, but when I visualize the bead getting moved everything there gets fucked up. The pinched parts sticks way up when I visually picture the move

Maybe I'm over thinking it and should just cut it down the center of the compound, keep cutting till the high spots are gone and then figure out a to b following curve.

Sure dont want to cause more work for myself.
Sorry about the 1 pic per post.

 

Please tell me what body is this? 28/29?

 

You wouldn't believe me if I told you anyway
Really you wouldn't.

 

The other side is the same way, so establishing symmetry isn't a huge concern, just maintaining it.

 

I wonder if instead of pushing the beads out and adding metal up front you could just pinch the rear while leaving the trunk opening and foreward bead as is?

 

Man its really hard to see from pics as you can see In person.
When you look down the side of the car from the front,
from cowl to doors to just past B pillar looks great. Then the car disappears into that dip and you can't pick it up again till way down at the back.

Ill see if I can get a pick that shows that.

 

Here's a couple more.
In this one you can see a nice plain from door to quarter and almost the entire wheel bead.,
The bottom 2/3rds of the quarter are pretty good.
But see how the top disappears. Look at the side shot to get your bearings on the lip in relation to the pinch.

 

Now in this one you can see how the pinch still messes with the eyes flow down the quarter. Looks like the bead is wearing a cheap push-up bra.

 

And here's the side shot.

 

See why I'm thinking the entire back half of the car will completely disappear from view until eyes catch up on the angle, then the eye want to go back to see what it missed.

Maybe I'm FOS ?idk but it looks weird now.

 

OK key thing for me would be to make sure the trunk? opening is square and work out from there. Once that portion of what ever body you are doing is square then the rest should fall into place. Many early bodies are not symmetrical. My roadster body is not flat on the sides. It tapers up to the bead and then rounds up to the trunk. The side of the body bows out and tapers down to the lower bead.
My advice is just make it look good to you as you will probably never park it next to another one.

 

After studying a few cars online you might be right about the dip. A '33/'34 looks to have more beef in the upper quarter between mid axle and the rear window. Found an eerily similar pic here, #3, top row that I think shows what your getting at. http://carsofbend.com/Projects/1934_Ford_5_Window_Coupe Not an easy one to plot, more what fits your particular skill set and tools.

 

I've been comparing and taking cues from a 34 ford 5 window coupe sitting here. The trunk opening is square and on center.

That curve on top of the quarter is almost 90 on a 6" arc on a uniform radius at the tail end, then it transitions to mostly flat with a tighter radius at the roof area. But that pinch doesn't follow either one.

One minuet I want to cut it about 1" up from the bead line, the next I want to cut it 2" off the trunk opening, then I want to cut it on a true bisect of the radius( boy is that a crooked line) then I want to drop a tape line down what appears to be center but every one gives me ass cramps about where its will go when it relaxes.

 

I'm pretty good at making metal go from point A to Point B that's easy for me.
Establishing where point A is supposed to be or where point B needs to be is where I have some trouble. Since everything had been up in the air and subject to interpretation on this its certainly stretching my skill level not to mention my patience.

I'm thinking ill remake the entire section out of some soft aluminum and see what kind or clues I get from that. I need to move and quit thinking Ugh!

Here's the pic you mentioned

 

Bump

 

Hey,

Why not scribe a templet from Masonite or heavy cardboard from one of the five-windows you have access to, and use that as a standard to reshape yours? Moving that bead/swage line out with a T dolly or some hammer-on dolly work won't be as tough with a templet to guide you. I wouldn't cut anything at this point, but only straighter up the bead/swage lines, and metalfinish out the quarter BEFORE you weld in the wheelhouse. You may well have to do some slight rework once you hang and align the deck lid and finish your welding, but probably not much.

That looks like a fun project!

 

32Vicky,
Man one of these days for sure when I come to Cleveland to visit my son. I must surely visit your garage to see what you are working on.


Ago

 

Come on down

 

Looks like the metal above the swage line and parallel to it needs to be either stretched, or, sliced along the length and a sliver added. Am I looking at it wrong?

 

I don't think you are looking at it wrong
By all my available methods to check, that pinched area needs to move about an inch at the center. That's going to be adding metal.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2183385&d=1398140724

 

Cant say jacks$%)# to help but I wanna thank you for making my day better. It is really interesting and I wanna see what you're gonna do.

 

Haha ! Glad my problem can make someone feel better
Wait till you see the steering.
Idk, they say everything's been done before but I'm pretty sure I'm going to pull it off. New idea, traditional parts, a few new parts totally traditional look of the parts. I can't find one example so far, so that means that there's probably a few but not many at all.

 

Greetings! If I'm seeing the problem correctly, my fix would be to make absolutely sure the deck lid gaps are good and the opening square, weld braces across the decklid opening then use a portapower to push the quarters back out to where they need to be. You'd want to make blocks contoured to fit the belt line to avoid damage. Best of luck.

 

Ok, I guess this would need further explaining.
A push without a cut would be ok, but when laying this out....

Marks every 3 " from door to tail pan along the curve.
Then measure from bead to trunk opening plotting the center of this measurement along the way every 3 inches.

This yields a very crooked line that run corespondent to the wacky numbers. Each one should get progressively smaller and never get larger or stay the same. However that's what they do, That tells me there's not enough from trunk opening to the bead at the pinched place.

I'm pretty sure that the bead should remain where it is in broadside view but needs to move away from center in a rear or top view.

 

Yep. I'd slice it 1 inch above the bead, push the bead out to where it needs to be, maybe need to stretch the top roll of the quarter panel out a little, then add a sliver in the remaining gap. As said before, make sure to brace the deck lid opening from different directions so it doesn't get misshapen during the surgery.

 

I think this will be the cut.
From looking at things, the tail end might need to tuck in a skooch, and the rest stretch out, I'm not sure if I can do it with 1 sliver added or reforming the whole section. There's a line there that's 1-3/4 off the bead and I think that may need cut there too. Good thing is I can get the edge of the 1/4 into my shrinker stretcher.

Ill give you guys an hour to tell my why it wont work or should be different lol.
Then ill cut it after lunch or re map it.

 

Almost

 

AWE hell, I chickened out.
Can't cut it before I think on it some more.
Not sure why it would be just a little more metal right?

 

Yup, it's just metal......PRECIOUS metal! Give it more thought before diving in.

 

Ok.