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60's chevy C10 truck questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by DanCollins, Nov 23, 2005.

  1. DanCollins
    Joined: Jan 5, 2002
    Posts: 888

    DanCollins
    Member

    thinking about picking one up, and curious to know how easy/hard they are to lower and how much without major mods, I know they have IFS and trailing arm rear, so I would think it would be fairly easy. Also did any of them come with disc brakes? if so what years. I'm looking at a '66 with a big block, any info would be great, never had a C10, but had a '57 and my current '59 apache. Seems like they are pretty different animals.
     
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  2. DanCollins
    Joined: Jan 5, 2002
    Posts: 888

    DanCollins
    Member

    oh yeah, one more thing, if it's 6 lug, I guess I'll have to change axles and spindles to switch to 5 lugs, any info on that would be great too.
     
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  3. Mike
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 3,539

    Mike
    Member

    Get in touch with go-kat-go, he did pretty much everything you are talking about to his '64 Chevy truck.
     
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  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,620

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    they were all drum brake 6 lug thru 70, then went to 5 lug disk in 71. The rearends were widened in 70, so you can't use the 71-up axles in the 69-older housings. The rear suspension went to leaf springs in 73, so the housing you'd want for 5 lug would be 70-72 only. The 5 lug truck bolt pattern is 5 on 5", different from most of the car wheels (the 5" pattern was used on many full size Chevy cars starting 71).

    The 60s trucks are pretty much completely different from the 59 and older trucks.
     
  5. El Caballo
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 6,327

    El Caballo
    Member
    from Houston TX

    Dan, the year you probably want to concentrate on is '63, the last year of the knee knocker cab, cool dash, coil IFS. I have a '62 and I am in the midst of swapping out the entire front crossmember because the '60-'62 models have torsion bar front ends. I am swapping in a clip from a '79 into mine but anything '73-'87 will fit. For lowering coils, a '68-'72 GM intermediate will get you down. All on a chaepo budget.
     
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  6. 67Imp.Wagon
    Joined: Jun 16, 2001
    Posts: 1,191

    67Imp.Wagon
    Member

    Keep the 6 lugs and just slap some baby moons on.Quick, cheap and looks good for 60's cars and trucks.

    Coil springs all around so lowereing is also quick and easy.
     
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  7. nastyrod
    Joined: Aug 4, 2005
    Posts: 127

    nastyrod
    Member


    i'm working on a 64 right now... lowered 5 in rear 3 in front, 250 six and I split the manifold 3 speed on the column, I'm getting her ready to paint right now... if you have any questions I'll be happy to answer.
     
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  8. DanCollins
    Joined: Jan 5, 2002
    Posts: 888

    DanCollins
    Member

    thanks for the replys so far. I will try and get a hold of go cat go too. I was wanting to run mags, thats why the 6 lugs would be hard, but then again the 5 on 5 bolt pattern would be hard too unless i ran supremes or something universal. I like the earlier cabs with the wrap around window, but I'm more particular about other stuff, i can go either way with that. any more info, keep it coming. I'm gonna have to make a decision soon, thanks.
     
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  9. hotrod54chevy
    Joined: Nov 7, 2003
    Posts: 1,590

    hotrod54chevy
    Member
    from Ohio

    my dad had a 65 stepside c10 that i almost got for free but i had nowhere to put it.original 6,flat tires,an equalizer on the radio and a busted brakeline.he ended up calling the junkman for it because i took too long..if i could go back,i would have taken it and sat it in the parking lot where i'm at now.if it's free or even CLOSE to free,i'd say go with it.i was going to take it cuz it was free but now i KNOW i'd have paid for it.it was an awesome truck.i wouldnt pass it up again
    creepy
     
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  10. specialk
    Joined: Sep 28, 2005
    Posts: 598

    specialk
    Member

    In direct contrast to other posts (and posters), lowering a pre-63 isn't that tough. The way the torsion bar fits in the mounts can be changed (rotated) so that you can lower the vehicle (way better than cutting coils too!) Just remember that you may need new shocks if you go this route (will need new shocks is probably a better way of putting it!)

    If you want to spend more money (and switch to disks) you can get dropped spindles (classic performance comes to mind). They're offered in five and six bolts versions. As far as wheel go, truck rallyes are supposed to fit, or steel with a baby moon is REALLY nice.

    Also, as far as the torsion bars goes, many say they give a better ride. I couldn't say, I haven't tried them both. I just know that I love my '62 (now that I added power steering, that is)
     
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  11. Dan, you can swap the front crossmember with one from a 73-87, it is a bolt-in operation essentially. Gives you the disc brakes and 5-lug, plus you can get dropped spindles. You do not have to clip it, just swap the crossmember. For the rearend I believe you can get aftermarket axles that have the 5 lug for your old rearend. Or find one of the 71-72 rearends and swap that.
     
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  12. CptStickfigure
    Joined: Feb 11, 2004
    Posts: 496

    CptStickfigure
    Member
    from Urbana, IL

    Looks like most of your questions have been answered pretty well, so I'll just add that the 60-66 forum over at 67-72chevytrucks.com has a lot of information/trivia about these models. Between there and the HAMB, you'll be pretty well set.
     
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  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,620

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    keep in mind that 60-62 frames are a bit different than 63-up frames....
     
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  14. DanCollins
    Joined: Jan 5, 2002
    Posts: 888

    DanCollins
    Member

    thanks guys, I'm looking at a '66 that has been converted to power steering and brakes, Sounds like I could do the spindles and axle swap pretty easy. i don't know if I'd need to swap crossmembers for what i want.
     
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  15. Lucky Strike
    Joined: Aug 14, 2004
    Posts: 1,665

    Lucky Strike
    Member

    I found a set of 6 lug aluminum slotted mags for my 58, no problem, cheap. But I'll probably go to steel with spider caps in a few months.

    It came with a set of five star aftermarket 6 lug rims I'd be happy to sell you for not much over the price of shipping...
     
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  16. El Caballo
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 6,327

    El Caballo
    Member
    from Houston TX

    Such as?
     
  17. Lars
    Joined: Apr 26, 2004
    Posts: 15

    Lars
    Member

    I have a-66 stepside, and had all your lug-brake problems. I bought a dropped spindle/ disc brake kit from McGauphys. It does have the 5 inch truck pattern and I had 4,75 bolt Americans lying. It's a simple operation and I think that there is no need for any bigger clip-operations, since they have a pretty good suspension both front and rear. especially for it's age. I tried to get hold of other discs since they couldn't be redrilled. I wound up buying an adapter for it. In the rear I put their coils and also did a c-notch in the frame. I am just doing some brake line fixing this weekend and looking forward into putting it down from the jack stands. I could get some pics if you are interested. Also need to put power steering and what years of steering box will fit?
    Lars
     
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  18. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,620

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    the width of the frame is different at the front...the crossmembers in the middle are different....little things like that.
     
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  19. Lars
    Joined: Apr 26, 2004
    Posts: 15

    Lars
    Member

    Yes I just redrilled the rear axles, had to plug a pair of the old holes, but its a easy thing if you just have a jig or something to get the right pattern.
     
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  20. sir
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 467

    sir
    Member

    HOWDY...BRUCE HERE, yup..put a "72 crossmember under my "66" changed out the rear end too the 5-lug pattern opened up alot of wheel choises in the 5 on 5 " group and got p/s in the process .also if you chose a 5-lug rear end you MUST trim 1" out of the lip on your bed,but only if it is a "fleetside" alot of us have "been there done that" with 64-66 chevy trucks and will be glad to help....
    I've even got pictures!
    BRUCE...:D

    BRUCE
     
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  21. 60-62 parts just cost more.

    Ball joint and Windshields come to mind. ;)

    66, just get drop spindles and add disk. 65-66 seem to be cheaper.

    Mines a '64 SWB, thats down to the frame. (Not on the frame :p)

    Doing the suspension right now.
     
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  22. specialk
    Joined: Sep 28, 2005
    Posts: 598

    specialk
    Member

    'shield is about $500 (as opposed to as low as $125 for the latter years)

    lower ball-joint is about $125 (as opposed to <$50)

    Crossmember swap takes care of that, of a full front end rebuild for about $500.
     
  23. El Caballo
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 6,327

    El Caballo
    Member
    from Houston TX

    Squirrel, what are the specifics on the differences of 60-62 frames vs. 63-66?
     
  24. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,620

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't know all the differences...but I do know if you try to use a 60-62 header panel on a 64-6 the notches for the frame are in the wrong place....

    Also the early frame is boxed up front, isn't it?
     
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  25. dixiedog
    Joined: Mar 20, 2002
    Posts: 1,204

    dixiedog
    Member

    Hey El C - I have a 61 and like specialk said about the ball jointsbeing double the money with half the fun. I heard that some of the frames like GMC are ladder style and not the big S like mine. The other things I think of are those nasty torsion bars, really screwed up the exhaust options on mine (went with center dump ram horns).

    I wanted a 63 but settled on a 61 - now wish I went with a 64+ because the windshield post is a pain.

    And sir - post pics bruce always interested in seeing something new.
     
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  26. El Caballo
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 6,327

    El Caballo
    Member
    from Houston TX

    Well, I have a '79 front crossmember with disk brakes that WILL go under the front of my truck. If I have to go in either direction on my frame to make it fit, it will. I don't believe it is boxed squirrel, but I will check when I get home.
     
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  27. sir
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 467

    sir
    Member

    HOWDY...BRUCE HERE,dopy me!! I don't know how to post pictures...the only ones .I know how to do are on my website ..noted at the bottom of the page....

    BRUCE...
     
  28. Nice Truck there Bruce,

    I may have to go Torque Thrust on mine as well.

    Goal is to drive it to Round-up. Gotta get busy.
     
  29. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,525

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Burce...thats a DAMN good looking truck. Hey Revhead, I hope you see this post...might be able to make something cool out of that heap of yours after all.

    A couple things about the frame...my dad built a '65 SWB a couple years ago. Then it was in an accident, hit hard enough to have to replace the frame. He was told that the later frames (he got one from a '72) were identical....turns out they are not. (as stated above)

    On the earlier frame, he had to use a bracket to mount a power steering box, but the later frame already had provisions for it to bolt directly to the frame.

    The front frame horns were also different (where the bumper bolts on), but that only neccisitated lopping the old ends off and welding them to the new frame.

    I think the crossmembers for the bed had holes in different places (or not at all) for the bed floor to bolt to.

    And, when we set the cab back on the frame we found that the rear body mounts were at least 1" lower on the later frame than what they were on the earlier frame.

    Thats all I remember!

    The aftermarket is full of parts, they are very easy to lower and just as easy to bag. I say get one.
     
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  30. 624
    Joined: Oct 21, 2005
    Posts: 3

    624
    Member
    from BC CA

    Attached Files:

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