What are pros/cons of each? Purely aesthetic, or are there actual structural differences in terms of stability/strength of the spring perch? Square is nice and easy to fab, but admittedly doesnt look as nice... Whatcha yall thinks? Happy turkey day, -J
Go round. Cut the inside of the side rail (hole saw, plasma, etc.) to fit the tube, butt the crossmember against the outside, cut the top and bottom of the rail and wrap around the front of the crossmember, weld everywhere. I don't think strength will be an issue. I've done them both ways, round looks way better to me.
But isnt that reeeeeal hard to cut perfectly with a torch and not mess up? I dont have access to or knowledge of a plasma. Its gonna be hiden by the grille/ lost amongst the front susp. anyway...
Dude, do whatever is easiest with what you have, just make sure it is strong and welded really good. If square or rectangle is easier use that, especially if it is not an aesthetic(sp)? issue. Jimmy White
round is stronger torsionly then square. plus it looks 10 times better even if 90% is hidden the 10% you do see make all the diffrence.
Sorry, I forgot to mention round was stronger, If he used 2x3 3/16 wall turned the hard way it would be way more then sufficient for his application. I was just trying to make a suggestion for what seemed easiest for him. I think it depends on the application I have seen round that looked bad, and I have seen rectangle that looked good. Either way both will work. I guess it comes down to how you craft the end product. Jimmy White
Round. Just found this old picture of my chassis when I was building it - notice the hi-tech paint application (think I dropped the brush in the dirt a few times...) I've done a lot of off road trials with this chassis - haven't broken a thing.
Cut or bend a "U" shaped guide about half the diameter of your cutting torch tip bigger than the hole you want to cut out of something about 1/2" tall that won't burn too fast and clamp it on the rail and let it guide your cutting torch. It'll be clean enough for government work, and hotrod frames.
Another way out - and admittidly not easy - scribe a cut line, drill many holes alongside the line on the side where the material will be removed. Get a small, but sharp chisel and connect the holes. Once the waste material falls away, use a sanding drum in your drill motor to smooth things out. Makes for a nice accurate cut. Sam thing can be done when you're cutting the larger instrument holes. The drum sander brings these to finished size very quickly.
What's the difference if it's harder to do? You gett'n paid by the hour? Do the best job you can and have something to be proud of - Fuck EZ
Exactly! Flame axe? Plasma? Hammer, chisel, hacksaw and drill and a sander - should keep you warm on a cold night...
As been said round is better (for a given size) for PURE torsion loads (twisting of your tube, but for any lateral loads then square/rectangle (for a given size) is better. That said, either will work when sized right. Square/Rectangle can be made to look MUCH better when you soften the "mitered" joints - see pic attached. Round of course looks good too. I used to fishmouth round tubing with just a hand grinder, but it's way easier and more accurate with one of those Hole Saw Notchers - I heard Harbor Fright has them for 50-60 bucks. Mine was 99 bucks from Speedway (cheapest at THAT time). Good Luck
I bought a hole saw kit with bi-metal blades. With a little cutting oil applied while drilling it is fast and the saw teeth will last for many jobs. Ive dulled cheap blades in less than one hole!
Thanks, good food for thought. Going thru .120 with a holesaw would be the cleanest and most accurate, but likely also the most maddening.
I went square and to add stiffness I slightly tapered the bottom as well as drilled and sleeved it. On this car the holes also get some air to the radiator since it is behind the cross member. For me, using square was best because my grill shell will sit on top of it as well as the radiator up to the back. This thing is stout! Motor
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