well, on a daily atleast. everytime some bird ****s on it, or some tree ******* lands on it, some ********er draws on the hood with thier greasy mits, it never comes out. primer looks cool, but i need to use some matte reducer so i can stop beating my head cleaning the **** off of and out of primer coated things. i suppose i should have said, i am a lazy **** for not painting my car correctly the 1st time.
true true true.... im glad people are realizing this. matte is solid...and is real paint primer is primer...
I have the same damn problems! Trees and birds mess it up, and whenever a buddy goes for a ride in it with his arm hangin' out the window, it stains it for a week. Funny how everyone laughs at old primer, but it needs just as much attention and care as a nice gloss coat does. -Dean
Really? Mine is 2 years old now and when the truck gets dirty I wash it, looks good as new. Nothing has "Stuck" to it. Mine is red oxide.
I've got a quick fix for you. After you wash your car, just spray some WD-40 on a rag and wipe the entire car down. Then I usually go back over it with a dry rag to get rid of that wet look. The end result is a nice sheen. I've done it on my 54, several times. The WD makes it look like a fresh coat of DP-90.
well, i will try it, i am going to start prepping the thing for a 350/350 swap this week end...bye bye 6 lunger i will give that a shot. thanks.
I cant help but laugh everytime i've washed one of my primered sh!tboxes i end up with a bucket of thick colored water....
use the water based automotive paint cleaner for the bird poop and the wax and grease remover for the hand prints. Then sand the primer down and squirt your paint...primer is not FINISH. HAHA
I feel sorry for the sap who buys your car thinking he can just scotch brite it and paint over that primer.....silicone + paint = failure. Even worse when you start sanding on it....could effect other projects as well. When I had mine in DP-90 it showed EVERYTHING....fingerprints, bird****, dust, waterspots and the whole nine yards....and after a couple years worth of washing off said items it started to blush the etch coat because (as it was also mentioned above) every wash ended with a bucket of black mud, a VERY dirty wash-rag and a hot tempered wife (opps - I thought it would come out honey!!!). Gave the car character though. If I had a full bodied car again I wouldn't go primer again. When I get a rod up and going I might like it specifically FOR the character of it, but for the amount of body work it takes to get it into good enough shape to primer - you might as well go all the way. For a couple hundred dollars more you could have a nice painted car. That's ***uming you are doing the work yourself.
Broman's right on the WD-40 silicone bit....here's the tip of the day...you want that flat black look without all of the upkeep? Plus super cheap too? Rustoleum flat black paint. Dilute it with mineral spirits and spray it on, or do like me and put it on straight outta the can with a brush. A quart can'll run ya about 6 bucks at Walmart...and a cheap brush can be had for about a buck. Can't get much more low-dollar than that, it's an absolute blast to paint a car with a brush, plus it's paint, so it protects and won't stain like the primer will....here's a pic of my coupe in brush applied Rustoleum flat black....
2 solutions come to mind. 1. Clearcoat..........urethane. good stuff. Add a flattning agent. 2. Scotch-Brite. It's primer, scuff it when it gets bad.
I got DP-90 black on my Deuce and I'll be putting on my 3rd coat soon.Everyone is right,the time it takes to get the body perfect,just paint it.But I like the primer look.I heard of using just the base coat,no clear.I may try that.Anyone know about using basecoat no clear on a daily driver? I'm sick of hearing people tell me to paint it . MY CAR MY WAY----------- YOUR CAR YOUR WAY
PPG makes a already flatend clear I think its called flex and flat, any who that car with the WD on it sound like a painters worst nihgtmare..Pat
I don't have any problems with the DP90 I put on my coupe. Maybe it's the epoxy in the primer but it's been on the car for 2 years and ,granted,it sits in my garage when I'm not driving it,but the primer still looks like it did when I put it on.
I have not had any problems with my DP-90 either,I re- did it a bunch of times for diff reasons.New body work mostly.
I can not say enough good things about the Xotic base coats http://www.xoticcolours.com/pages/tech/sectionb.html. Shot my brothers Cad with a gallon of their metalic silver base with a pint of medium green 2 stage to tint. Only cost me $125 in materials.
for the record, WD-40 does NOT contain silicone, so it can be easily removed when your ready for paint. I scuff mine with 0000 steel wool and wipe it down with WD-40 after every wash. If its not to ditry, I'll just do the WD-40 wipedown. The WD-40 also acts as a water repellant/moisture seal to prevent rusting through the primer.
Maybe out west where it's dry primer will hold up but I have always read that primer will attract moisture and the car will rust. I've seen plenty of NOS parts that had been stored indoors and they are rusty even though they were primered. The way to go is basecoat without the clear or you can buy flattener, I've never done it but I've seen quite a few cars running around here with basecoat and no clear and they seem to be holding up fine.
Another way to get the black primer look and not have to go through all the stuff everyone is talking about, Is to use John Deere blitz black paint its a synthetic enamel which kinda ****s because it gets everywhere when you paint with it but it lasts and is almost bullet proof. My car is painted with it and its been probably 5 years or more since I did it and it still looks good. When someone gets handprints or a bird ****s on it just go wash it and it comes right off. I also sometime use the High pressure wax on it to, just for the heck of it and it makes it a little more semigloss looking. Most of my friends have painted they're cars with it and they still look good. Just my $.02
Primer is part of the journey not the destination. I use flattened laquer it is a destination, wash my car, when I do, with windex.
Primer is to cover bare metal to keep it from rusting. Primer doesn't even have to match. When something scuffs it, spot prime. I can't for the life of me imagine any reason in the whole wide world for WASHING? a primered 'rod.
The Jalopy Journal
