As seen in the pictures I took it down to a bare frame. It is being rebuilt with stock parts with the exception of Jamco suspension and sway bars. I went with a 4" drop in the back, 3" in the front, and KYB shocks. The brakes were completely rebuilt with new wheel cylinders, shoes, drums, and hardware. The emergency brake cables have also been replaced. New king pins and bushings were also used. The only thing I kept was the frame, control arms, spindles, and backing plates.
Sweet! Keep us posted. Looks like you got a straight car to start with. I went with Jamco's tubular front end kit and it really works well with their rear spring package. Looking good here!
If I had just replaced the front springs, this probably would have been the best way to go. By the time I purchased new pivot/shaft kits, king pins, drum brakes, etc.. I could have gone with the tubular control arms and disc brakes.
Thanks! It has been a little bit of a battle. I'm just happy to be back on 4 wheels and rolling. It can been a little difficult working around 2 other roommates and their projects.
"If I had just replaced the front springs, this probably would have been the best way to go. By the time I purchased new pivot/shaft kits, king pins, drum brakes, etc.. I could have gone with the tubular control arms and disc brakes" Well, you probably won't make this mistake again. I, too, was thinking very hard about using dropped spindles and lowering blocks on my Victoria project. But when I got really honest with myself as to how much the all the front and rear brake and suspension rebuild components and labor would cost, the "full monte" was very favorable when compared on a cost basis and far superior when it came to a results basis. The good news is that by restoring your frame you've done all the groundwork for a future upgrade to a full Jamco suspension. And, you can drive and enjoy your car as you raise the funds. Nice work! Eric
When I purchased the car it had 3" blocks out back, and cut springs in the front. So I went with full 4" lowering springs for the back and 3" drop coils for the front. That with all new steering components, should be a huge improvement. But who knows what the future holds. The car had previously been converted to power brakes with some setup, that I'm guessing was from the 70's or early 80's. It was VERY big, and VERY ugly. I was able to find a NOS Kelsey Hayes power brake package, so I plan on using that.
That's a great looking job. Obviously, everything is so much easier with the body off. I did a lot of the same installations you have done with the suspension, except from under the car. It wasn't bad, but getting a good position was often a challenge. I plan to replace the tie rod ***embly next. Did you use NOS parts, or mailorder? If you used mailorder would you please offer an opinion about quality, ease of ***embly, etc. of the parts from who you bought the components? Thanks in advance.
All of the shaft/ pivots kits, and tie rod ends/adjusters were purchased through Dennis Carpenter. Quality on all of those parts is excellent. I used a NOS drag link, with a NORS rebuild kit. I also purchased a new idler arm ***embly and bracket from C&G Ford Parts. C&G sells Dennis Carpenter products, but they actually get they orders shipped the same day. If I was purchasing everything again, I would order everything from C&G. They don't have a mark up on the prices, and their customer service is excellent. If you replace the idler arm ***embly, make sure you order a separate set of seals. My experience was the ones that are supplied with the Dennis Carpenter kits are NOT correct.
Thank you for your response. I had checked out several catalogs and C & G seemed to have everything I need (as well as Carpenter). Taking your advice I'll probably go through them. Thanks, again!
In October, gas here in lower Michigan was about the same - $2.25 was on the low side. It spiked up recently, I just got back from the U.P. and it was $2.85 near the Mackinac Bridge then evened out to around $2.70 in the western U.P. $2.64 in Howell today (11/8)
are you going to have to notch the frame for the 4" drop in the back? what about the driveshaft tunnel?
The drive shaft should have enough room. I won't know for sure until the body is back on the frame. I have been so busy with work and the Holidays, that I haven't really made much progress.
It has been a while since I updated my project. I was not at all happy with the appearance of the frame. I had used Eastwood rust converter and ch***is paint, and it was already starting to peel off. So here goes round number two. Just received my frame today, fresh from chemical metal stripping and etching. Now there should be no problems with paint. Looks like the frame was made yesterday. Should have it rolling again in a week or two, and then I can start to make some real progress.
I am fighting the urge to blow my Vicky apart and do a proper "frame-off" build-up on it. I've got one completely custom built hot rod, my Plymouth coupe, done this way and it is a horrendous amount of work! The rewards are great, but the amount of labor is unreal! Keep it up!
Now that I have finally had some time, the frame is a roller again. I'm sticking with the same suspension setup, but decided to ditch the Jamco sway bars. I was afraid of drive shaft clearance issues in the back. Also just finished up putting in new brake lines. Next up... Body work. Just waiting on some sheet metal.
SWEET! Looking good. I remember when i took the frame out in mine it ****ed lol. Good luck with your build!
wow, thats looking good. did you reuse all the frontend parts? i'm rebuilding my front end right now. whats a good source for seals and bushings? where do you get that brake line cover? you got to post some more detail pics for me. if mine comes out half as nice as that, i'll be happy.
Thanks for the encouragement. westcoaster: I rebuilt everything on the front and rear suspension. It is a stock setup with the exception of lower springs in the front and rear. The brake lines are custom bent to the original factory specs. The lines came from inlinetube.com I will take some detail pics of the individual pieces. As for ordering parts.. There are lots of different options for things like bushings, etc. My two favorites are C&G Early Ford Parts and Concours Parts.
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