The Jalopy Journal
Well, I'd say "kind of" . . . when you break an axle in our early Ford rear ends, the hub/wheel does "float" . . . right off of the rear end!...
A Johnny Joint is a good choice for your front mount for the rear radius rods . . . much better than a typical heim joint. Also, most of them can...
I heard that when they ran Nitro they took the jets out completely and over-bored the dump tubes. I have no idea as to how they tuned the damn...
Hell of a lot easier job that trying to graft a section in the middle and hope that you can somehow align the two ends. Given how a TT pivots in...
No kidding! I don't think I've worked on any area of a suspension project without modifications to dang hear everything that went into it. It...
Hopefully you plan on using a lot stronger material to align the TT pieces that what I see in the mockup. I would be using some 1/4" thick angle...
Here is a great guy that does all my pump rebuilds (and a lot of other stuff for guys on the Fordbarn) - including some special pumps for me - he...
Glad you solved it Richard - way to go and thanks for the roundtrip reply!
A rough guess is that you'd need $5000 - $6000 - with probably other things to purchase as well (maybe a dual sync distributor, etc).
What is the width of the housing?
That is most likely a Lincoln center section.
What a great roll of file to process . . . just some awesome pictures and history (much of it unknown) . . . and that makes it even better!...
Way to go Neal . . . Hell of a nice offer!
Yep, those "nylons" can always get a guy in trouble! LOL
Having high quality flaring tools is a must as well . . . make a huge difference - and is mandatory for brake lines.
Great post! I think exactly like you do!
I do not like the aluminum fittings with the nylon washers . . . have seen the washers distort and fuel leak all over the place. I prefer the...
I'd recommend using some NiCop material - much easier to bend and doesn't corrode. You'll only need 5/16" lines, though you might like the looks...
Your solution looks good and I believe you'll have more than enough power for what you're running. Nice work!
Sounds like you need to have the motor pulled to determine what is wrong with it. That sucks, but you can't risk damage to the motor and one...
Since you have it all apart, think about a windage tray for better oil control on the lower end. I'm not sure what folks have for 2-bolt mains -...
I agree, but who knows what rear cross-member is in this thing . . . my bet is that it isn't the original. As others mentioned, the best thing...
The Potvin 3/8's is one of my favorite street cams ever made . . . love them! I put one of Pete's in a 304 cubic inch flathead recently - runs...
Pete at D&L Automotive let me know that he is retiring for a second time. He has trained the guys at Salt City Speedshop to do his work and my...
Notice the big 4x4 beam up against the top of the door areas.
I'd highly suggest going to Red's versus the repop Fentons. Also, don't try to "slip fit" your exhaust extensions to the ends of the headers -...
Great looking banger Dennis! I bet is goes down the road pretty well!
The Stromberg 81 is about 135 or so cfm, the 97 about 160 or so, the 48 about 170 or so. For performance street banger, the 81 will probably work...
I looked into the Burtz stuff - it is all modern style, 5 mains, bigger journals, insert bearings, pressurized oiling, etc.. If you have a...
If it was mine, I'd pull BOTH heads and have TWO heads rebuilt (obviously substituting a different head for the one that may be cracked). It...
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The Jalopy Journal
