The Jalopy Journal
1940-1941 ford pickup driver door. No real rust damage but the lower hinge was slightly sprung which is going to require some metal work to...
[ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] Very nice original paint 1932 ford pickup dash. Stainless trim intact. Two small accessory holes at the lower...
Thanks for all the replies. Yes I believe it is a 5 on 4.5 pattern and I want to go up to 5.5 so I can retain my ‘40 16” wheels. I live in a...
Hey guys, looking at a ‘58 wagon rear axle. How hard is it to swap to the earlier bolt pattern? Is it just a redrill or do I need new inner...
Dang it, says they are sold out.
I am restoring a set of 1932 headlights and the inner metal ring that is spot welded to the stainless bucket is basically gone on both. It holds...
Strange thing I am noticing is that when the car is hot, up to temp and running awhile there is no misses. I can let it idle and all is fine so it...
I am running an internally ballasted coil if that matters
What cap did you end up running?
Yes stock wires running though stock ‘36 conduits
Hey guys I have been chasing this issue for a bit and nothing I am trying is curing it. At idle it runs fine but every now and then there is a...
It drives straight, it has little steering wheel feel as far as correcting, the steering wheel is straight and the box is centered. Only thing I...
Thanks for the offer of the new sleeve, I will take you up on that. Nothing is welded on the drag link, I only weld a portion of a threaded rod...
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Here is what I came up with. Ordered a 11/16-18 LH thread tie rod end, coupler that is both LH and RH, and a RH 11/16-18 die. Weld an already...
SOLD
[ATTACH][ATTACH] [ATTACH] Good for a driver or patina build. Has some dings and the chrome has pitting. Rear bolt hole is cracked in half but it...
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The Jalopy Journal
