The Jalopy Journal
i started 3 yrs ago basically created a job for myself rebuilding antique engines and related repair. since doing so i can definetly understand...
ive run those before with no resistor and never burned points the stock condenser should be fine...
thats a cryin shame horrible news... i first met paul at nsra in burlington many years ago been to the salt with him and rb crew a couple of times...
just went thru that this week...headers never fit without bloodshed i used a plastic mallet without chipping the finish a block of hardwood and...
the differnence in valve spring lenght in 8ba's was because ford started using valve rotators in later engines. overall valve length was the same...
X2...good work reasonable turnaround time
if that v8's origional its pretty rare..consider keeping it together. have an aa dump truck with a hyd hoist in the family and its VERY handy to...
i think they are 11" on the front 12" on the rear? .060 to .080 over would be about the most id go with
i would remove the transmission cover and check if the bands are stuck to the drums or that the clutch is releasing. some pb blaster mite free...
thats what i was thinking also...you have the center outlet heads anyway...unless im missing something just run 59a pumps and crank pulley plug...
i agree 100%...
fairly certain those were all 3.78. oddball rear end as the driveshaft and pinion were integral
i ended up with several pallets of old piston sets and a lot were "semi" or labeled as requiring finishing . seems it was common practice at one...
very cool...you should mention your website...
the later ones like yours with the split keepers are easy next to the earlier mushroom stem valves ive found the exhaust valves (ones with smooth...
ill second this...those chineee made potmetal housings suck. i eventually put a cast iron one from napa on problem solved...f
welcome to my world...bwahaha...use one of those big c-clamp lookin valve spring compressors to hold the spring compressed remove the retainer...
i thought it was the same one...see ya at norwich
ya find that at hershey?
sell that closed cab and put the $ towards a brookville body. youll have a lot nicer ride than a butchered up body...
studs are better from a technical point of view. that said if you ever tried to get aluminum heads off that have welded themselves to studs you...
my 276 runs best with 97"s and stock jetting. thaTS A 2X2 SET UP. 3x2 you mite get away with a 48 on the ctr carb
those housings are plentiful around here. dont know about your situation but id replace the housing
yes thats the one heres a pic from the ICS textbook [IMG]
an old automotive encyclopedia i have shows a cutaway veiw of the stearns knight engine looks just like your pic. they were also popular in...
hummm ive done that before with no issues i can recall. have you thought of shortening the pedals?
your main cap should have an aluminum insert set up for the slinger seal. they are available repop for the rope seal. the later 59a blocks came...
its always gonna sound like a tractor but i would think a small diameter straight pipe out the back would give it some bark
the lever allows you to shift into reverse. is that a hole on the top of the bellhousing?
yeah 8 sleeves is lotsa dough id be looking for a better block...
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The Jalopy Journal
