The Jalopy Journal
Rockauto has both numbers for $2.17 (pack of 10), $2.39 each or a closeout of $1.34 quantity varies.
I use 3212 (B-6L) in a stock 59AB. I bought a bunch when summit was selling them cheap years ago. Funny thing is it fits the Studebaker also.
Double check with new Moog ones as some are not made in the USA.
When I was younger and working at a gas station in the later 90s, we still sold radial tubes for just an occasion.
I recommend one of these, it's a buzzer/circuit breaker. You put it in place of the fuse and it buzzes when shorted and then resets. The Blue one...
Those look OK for a perfectly round hole of the right size, anything other then that I can see them not working. If they're made of rubber then...
That shade of green looks off.
Exactly, everything on a 6v system needs to be up to snuff for it to work effectively. Cable size and clean grounds (or all connections) are only...
Not enough info.
http://www.socalcarculture.com/events.html No trucks or tractor type shows in that area.......asphalt jungle. If you wanted to drive north or...
WHAAAAAAAAAT, all those old movies lied to me ?!?!?! I'm crushed. Oh well, too late to change now..........plus all the money in the world...
Again, GREAT thread.
It looks like the difference is the wheel. The stock wheels have a deep drop on the center (where yours looks like it's touching) and the 15"...
I have a couple of Series 1 and a Mark 1. Keeping the Mark 1 for a future build the Series 1 will be sold when I get time. No building going on...
Yup, didn't look hard enough.....you even said 16s. Those look like the same bearings I have. Thanks for the stud numbers, hope it works well...
I looked back into the post and didn't see what size wheel you're running (15" or 16"). What bearings did you use?. I have the tapered bearing...
NOS no, but you can find kits that are still hopefully.
Sadly our back are getting awfully close the the wall on parts. I buy used old quality USA parts and rebuild them a lot (brake parts, fuel...
I was looking at the ABS kit also, good to know it kinda sucks. I wanted to use a regular GM rotor (not a hat style) so I could use standard...
Standard Ignition SSB1, but I would do like @Moriarity said. Use a insulated base solenoid (like a Standard Ignition SS-587) and use the stock...
I have a '64 9.3 and it a larger version of the 9" looking from the outside rear. I guess you can see the lower section of it with the tank...
[IMG] The beloved Delta from the original Evil Dead franchise.
'51-'52 Buick and I believe '53 Buick Skylark
Looking at old photos and the couplings @34 GAZ has, it seems like a lot of early trailers were made from round tube???.
The depth can be fixed with the rod you have and I've used the same type round end on Ford, GM and Jeep/Chrysler masters without issue.
I looked at the pic on Rockauto for a 1976 Granada manual and the slot for the dust boot to the end looks like a shallow bore to me. It looks like...
Sorry Johnny all I have are stock single or dual drum masters. But I remember that the early Ford Disc master was deep (power disc?). What an...
A lot of the Ford masters do come with the push rod, I'll see if I have an old master lying around. Also if you're going disc or drum front, AMC...
Hmmm, not too far from were I might be looking in the future.
#2 looks like a fusible link and depending on what solenoid it is, the "I" usually is a 12v kick up for a points cars (12v to coil while...
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The Jalopy Journal
