The Jalopy Journal
Man you guys are funny, I guess a better term would be "carboned" up. Yes I sprayed some penetrating oil in it to get the shaft out, used a brass...
Anyone ever come across a koked up distributor shaft? I thought I had a bad condensor cause the car wouldn't start and run, it wanted to... but...
I thought about those. After looking more, maybe I need to see how exhaust is hung. If its solid to the frame and not on hangers, that may be my...
Motor mounts are only a couple years old and tight. I thought about the springs (like factory exhausts with ball sockets use). The hard part would...
I have tried grade 8 bolts with copper nuts, double nuts and stover nuts. After about 1000 miles they need to be tightened down again as they...
Thought I would report back. After the car sitting for about a month with both lifters cranked down to zero lash, I decided to loosen them up and...
Ok this has been beat to death, but I need help. I'm using old school tall Moroso Gold Valve covers on the small block in my C10. I put the rubber...
I'm not worried about gas mileage at all. I do however want it to be as efficient as possible because that makes the most power. Looking at the...
Yes I have adjusted the rockers, the motor has been running great since rebuild in 2004. As all classics, when you have more than one to choose...
I'm measuring timing at the crank with my adjustable snap on timing light. Setting to 34 (with a 16 base) it runs really good. No hard to start...
When I take the push rod out, theoretically it should pop back up right? I wonder if i could stick an air nozzle down the push rod hole and blow a...
Well when I adjust all of the slack out of the lifters the motor runs great and smooth so the cam I beleive is still ok.
Its a 1970 Chevy C10 with a turbo 350, 3:07 rear end. I pulled the vacuum advance off last night and set timing to a total of 34, that set base to...
Yeah Ill do that. It appears that turning it out would lower the amount of vacuum advance right? And 16-18 base seems to be the sweet spot for...
I recently rebuild my 355 with edelbrock heads, edelbrock air gap performer, 268h cam, demon 625, moroso HEI. My guesstimate is 10:1 CR I was...
Here is the 355 I put in my 70 C10[ATTACH] [ATTACH]
The pickup on this one was so lose when I put it back in the pump. It only had 5 qts of fresh 10w40 in it when I found the issue.
Im only doing the rod bearings...
Gotta get the cloth and plastigauge. I plan on doing this week. Im also putting my 1970 C10 back together with a rebuilt motor and trans. This...
That's local to me! Thanks!
Where could I pick up crocus cloth and plasti gauge locally in socal? And is there a grit number for the crocus cloth I need to know?
Good info, now where to get locally...
Bearings are on the way and ill scotch brite the journals. Worse case, have to rebuild it anyways...
Ill do that... thanks!
Going for the tire burner arent we...
I haven't pulled them all. This is the one closes to the oil pump. I did weld the pickup back on. Its for someone I'm doing work on their truck....
Im thinking ATK 325HP long block for $2300... wonder if I can get engine rebuilt locally in socal cheaper than that?
Small block chevy. It ran fine and no noises. Oil pressure at 60 when cold, down to 20 when hot. 0 under hard braking... Looks like a 10/10 crank.
Oil pump pickup was in the pan for who know how long. Think i can slap a set of rod bearings in it with any longevity?
Ran 135 on 15" on my bugs for years back in the 90s. I used 135/15 tires on 15x4.5.
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The Jalopy Journal
