The Jalopy Journal
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Thanks, just seeing this but two main reasons: 1. I don't really have any friends around here into the car scene (older cars especially). I get...
Thanks! Yeah by white I mean off white like the steering wheel which I painted in an off white. I agree throwing an off white headliner and some...
Thanks, I think the black would look ok but scare away any ladies (or scare them away even more than already haha)... I'm going to shoot for...
Thanks, my thinking is for how little the car is driven, it would stay pretty clean even in white. What I'm struggling with is if its all white...
Hi All, On my radically chopped shoebox, it came with the seats in black and carpet in black. I made wooden door panels and stained and varnished...
Thanks there's also some of these cars for sale and on youtube sometimes and they take tons of photos so I might be able to find some clues that way.
Oh ok thanks, so does one use a spray adhesive to glue to the body panels and then cover that with the window mouldings? I imagine in the back to...
Thanks I thought about that too, initially I was thinking it would require welding and grinding them smooth so its all seamless. Adding material...
Thanks! Is it easy to modify the bows if the gap is too much? I imagine its adding material to the middle to length them?
Thanks I can try that with tape. My intuition says its likely the bows need to be lengthened so they are tight against the roof. I think the...
Hi All, I bought a 50 Ford shoebox tudor sedan that was chopped but the interior wasn't finished. I bought the headliner bows from someone that...
Hi All, I'm almost done restoring my 1950 Ford steering wheel and its coming out nice but one thing that has been bothering me for a while is the...
Yep! Thanks.. already did tighten the rear a little more after the 1st bit of driving.. and had to take the drain pan bolt out and add a copper...
I was for most of it then this guy almost side-swiped me because he didn't stop at a stop sign and it put me on edge all the way back home! Hope...
Thanks for all the great advice!
Alright here we go.. last update to close this thread out... somehow I got it to 6 pages with my overthinking! I finished the timing chain set...
good points… in San Diego it feels people run your ass over if you’re not doing 80 mph even with 70 mph speed limits… it’s very stressful to me… I...
already ahead of you.. the minute I took the timing cover off I thought I should have listened to squirrel and not do anything to the engine but...
yep, that's what I thought at the beginning and why they say to go "dot to dot" so there is less chance of being off one tooth by eyeballing both...
It makes sense to have the chain on when turning the crank. I've read in some other places to set the crank at 12 oclock and then take the chain...
Will drain the oil in the morning and resume with the pan and rest of timing chain work.
yep and as a result I had to suffer and rest my stomach in between the radiator and engine to reach far back when I did the #7 and #6 valve...
thanks I’ll try to pull that pan off then!
Do these photos make it easier to tell if that pan can come out ? I am worried about loosening it up to just find out I can’t get it out without...
I’ll keep all of those points in mind for the future. It looks like I have room to drop the pan a bit at least a few inches maybe more but not...
hard to see in the photo but at tdc #1 compression stroke the top cam is at 12 oclock. Bottom also at 12 oclock
I pulled the chain and cam sprocket off but I can put the cam sprocket back on and get them to 6 and 12 o’clock … is the point of doing this...
probably! I change the oil once a year even though I drive it just 150 miles per year. I changed the oil last July but I’m about to drain it all...
You were right the cover had been off and I didn’t need to worry about the nylon gears! @The Chevy Pope check this.. I noted a 10 degree offset...
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The Jalopy Journal
