The Jalopy Journal
PART 29 Continuing on with the rear cross member graft. Like the backside, I used my trusty pipe and formed a flange from 3/16 X 3/4” flat bar...
PART 28 With the backside all figured out it was time to move to the front side which looks like it might be a little more complex to blend...
PART 27 The next step was to remove the center of the original cross member. At least this portion can be used to repair one with a damaged...
PART 26 After finishing the X center braces I still wasn’t ready to grind and sand the front inner channel welds so I decided to head back to the...
Thanks, man! We’re all caught up now but as I press on I’ll be posting.
Yes it was! From the moment of the first tack to the end of the final bead was about 4 hours. That includes having to prop the frame up on both...
PART 25 I need to stock up on sanding supplies before I attack the front channel welds so in the meantime I moved on to the next project. Earlier...
PART 24 After welding the front inner channels it was time to match-drill a bunch of holes. On each side there is an upper 5/16” hole for the...
PART 23 With the window added for the steering gear box I sand blasted all of the front inner channel pieces to ready them for welding....
PART 22 Before permanently installing the front inner channels I needed to cut a window in the drivers side inner plate for the steering gear....
PART 21 With the rear inner channels essentially finished it was time to move onto the front. The process is the same as the rear except that...
PART 20 It’s been a while since my last update as I lost momentum with this project until recently. These last few weeks, though, I’ve been...
This is a set of front and rear NOS 1933 Ford shock absorber arms. Excellent condition. $200 + postage. Located in Southern California, city of...
This is a very nice original 1933-1934 Ford horn button / light switch control rod. Excellent condition and rod perfectly straight. $200 +...
These are NOS 1932-1938 Ford V8 and 1932-1934 B 4-cylinder 2nd speed or “intermediate” gears. Also used in 1939 in Standard models with early...
This is a complete set of NOS 1932-1934 Ford Model B 4-cylinder and V8 transmission gears. Includes all gears, synchronizer hub and sleeve, 2nd...
PART 19 With all of those extra holes filled it was time to start making the inner frame channels that will make the legs of the 33/34 X-member...
PART 18 With the 33/34 X-member install finished the next big step will be to build inner frame channels to make the leg of the X continue to the...
PART 17 And now for the big moment! Unfortunately, I didn’t get any “in progress” pictures but all that would look like is a bunch of weld seams...
PART 16 With the rear leg pieces tacked in place I match drilled the frame rails to the original rivet holes in the 33/34 X. Since a drill won’t...
Sounds like fun! I’ve seen the 35/36 X fit into a number of 32 frames. Also makes for nice setup. Are you going to make it flow into the frame...
PART 15 Pulled the X out one more time so I could address filling those last 2 holes on the lower flanges of the frame rails. [ATTACH]...
PART 14 I still need to fill those last couple of holes but I needed to switch gears mentally to something else for a minute so I decided to...
PART 13 With the front legs of the “X” fully fitted I needed to address filling some unwanted holes in the frame rails where they converge,...
PART 12 After breaking down the mock-up it was back to working on the “X”. Where the front legs converge with the rails I needed to slice above...
Bump
Yes, Early V8 Garage is still alive and well. My Dad, Richard, stepped back in August of 2023 following some health and cognitive issues. I am now...
Very nice. I have experimented with that combination before but from the looks of it the 32 pedal arms would not be an issue in regards to the...
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The Jalopy Journal
