0 to 200mph in 1.5 years...step 2 - How to chop it?

That black 'A' coupe is wild, it has a presence like Metalshapes roadster.
As far as stability and streamlining. Consider roof rails as well as lower vertical stabilizers under the rear of the car, sorry can't think what they are called.
Even our old barge at around 140 wanted to lift the rear.
Geoff aka Whodaky

 

Are we 100% certain that this Model A isn't a Chevrolet? Wayno

 

If I may interject something here. It has nothing to do with Rules, going 200mph, chassis setups, IT's those quater windows on model A's when you chop them severly.

THey take on a tear drop look that to me look stupid. Someone needst to take the front radius and put in the rear.

You could in reality take the right side front half and use it on the left and vice versa.

Maybe someone could photoshop this and see how it would look.

Just a thought coming from a body man

 

Aussie Steve was involved in the black coupe - there's even a pic of the ugly bugger on the web somewhere. If I could only remember where.

 

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723 XF VGCC Kowalski Special 116.095 116.307 is what I get on the scta site search.

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Cool! That is a Pennsylvania built car!

 

The Chevy is the Kwalski car. PM Hotrodphotos he knows them pretty well.
Clark

 

Roadstar ...I see what you mean in the pic on the previous page. How about just using the lower front corner on the lower back corner. Might look good that way.
Clark

 

Can you move the bottom of the front windshield forwards? Then stick dinky quarter windows between the windshield and old A-pillar?

 

Not being an expert at this, but watching the build of my friends Bville bound racecar, I think if you want to go 200 MPH, you should be looking for a full on race car seat for the driver that offers some head and neck protection. If you get sideways at speed and start rolling you want something to help hold your head in place other than your neck. Before you get the chop amount and floor placement issue settled, it would be nice to know the size and dimensions of the seat you would be using, to make sure it would fit with you in it and the roll cage around it.

The other thing is that the roll cage design for a car that could do 200MPH would probably have to be mainly designed to protect the driver. You may have to do some serious thinking and designing (and get approvals) to have a roll cage that would allow a passenger seat for the ride out to the salt and back. The bracing for the cage might make for an awkward seating or leg position for the passenger. The cages used in most coupes out there are plenty stout with a lot of tubes and cross bracing.

 

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And it's even more simple to just say "Give the roof an even chop and make sure it has a five inch windshield."

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No, it takes skill, knowledge and experience... not to mention cunning, to say that.

Grimlock and Ryan, the best way is to leave the doors in place when you make the initial cuts, then remove the doors and fit them later... after the chop is done.

The reason you want to do this is that the top profile is very important to get right. Especially if you plan on using... say a '36 Ford windshield frame, leaned back, up front.

You'll cut the top off, remove the header and visor... weld the back into place (c and b pillars) and then build the A pillars to meet the top rails. After the a pillars are in place, I would work on the new, compound curved header.

You might want to look to the wrecking yard for something that will fit your needs. Make a cardboard or plywood template, and take it with you... But I'm thinking the back of a van roof or

After the header is done, fit the windshield frame to it... if you decide to go that route.

Then, lastly, fit the top insert to it. Don't quote me, but I think I either read or heard that a top hatch isn't a bad idea.

But to answer your original question... you can chop it where you did your photoshop cuts.

The other option would be to cut the quarter and rear windows out of the top... then cut the body right below the factory seam (at the crease where the belt line is) and then slip it down... it makes for a seamless back section, and since you are going to slant the A pillars, it will negate the need for verticle cuts. I would try it.

Also, with this type of chop, you can more easily shape the rear 1/4 windows on your bench top and then weld them into place... same with the rear window.

Sam.

 

I think there are several peices of NON model A ROOF in the Chrisman roof.
It just has more radius.

 

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... I'd bolt in a Engine that I depend on and would give me absolutely no trouble, even if it would be down on power by 100 or 200 HP...

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Yeah, then add the nitrous when at speed. That'll bring those 200 hp back in a hurry!

I love where this is going!!!

 

Grimlok-SAM.....Actually you do both.
You cut off the door tops/fixture your door gaps with the doorbottom in place/then assemble the roof with the door fitting in the body as it will be when done.
THEN you build/reshape the tops on the car with the door in latched position with all surrounding gaps set.
Only reason to remove doors is to do finish welding and grinding ........

 

Don has a pic on his page of the Kowalski special...