Hot Rods 1 man engine swap on slopes drwy 63 Impala

Do not know all the Op has access to,
By pic ,
I have experiencing and think outside the Norm , I have used chains 4x4 cables
Ropes , door james of House , garage rafters ,, Ect
The pic below was a road call I did with No help a few 100 miles away ,
I have even done things like this with
2 10 foot folding ladders ....
The OP Challenge is the slope & not sounding like op has too much experience doing things like most of us that have posted & have done.

 

@ekimineiribo If you look at my avatar I am on the left. The spot where the blue Chevy sits is where I had my 57 210. I pulled the 283 from it and dropped it into my 55 Nomad sitting next to it.
My partner there showed up as I was bolting the U joint to the diff yoke. He was all upset thar I hadn't told Him that it was time. He wanted help.
l however, felt it would be easier to just do it myself. Anyhow you see the slope.
My Mom wasn't around that day so no picture. Sorry

 

Dang.
5 pages just to figure out if you can yank an old engine out.
These 2-16 year olds (the ones on the left did the work) had this 6 out in less than an hour. Including tearing it down to this point and putting the tools back in the shop. Radiator was already gone. So that probably saved em 15 minutes

Less time than some of us have probably invested in this thread.

 

I hope all goes well for the Op and he sends us pictures of how easy it turned out to be.

 

You should slow down, quit chomping at the bit to reply and read my post again.
Why would the drive shaft need disconnected if he's pulling the engine, I said tether the car if you're worried about it, place something under rear tires along with jack stands while disconnecting the torque converter. I could go on and on but hopefully you've went back and read my comment again.
As far as my garage floor goes, I said it's pitched 4 degrees, it drops 4.5 inches over 100 inches in length. I don't believe the o.
p. measured his, so again let's not make up stuff to suit your needs.
Watch this video starting at the 4 minute mark of how fast my car rolls out of the garage, WHILE RIDING THE BRAKE, when I put it in neutral. I said my garage floor is no joke and I mean it.

 

I'm still working on growing up....

 

Why do you have to resort to using all the blue language...???

 

I take the blue writing pointing out
Specific directions to Follow,
& think about ??

 

This thread reminds me of my neighbor, who owns a shop specializing in BMWs. I pulled the 3.5 inline 6 from my old ´88 735i, and I did it the way I was used to, working on old American cars. Prop the hood open, unbolt the rad, trans, torque converter, undo the wiring, attach two chains and lift it out with the cherry picker. The hoods on these olds Beemers open to the front, so it was a bit of a h***le to get the engine out over the fender, so I had to remove one front wheel to make room for the cherry picker. When he saw what I had done, he said in all confindence: You can´t do it that way! Those engines go out the bottom! And he said that even while he was standing right next to this engine that had come out on top. The correct procedure would have been:
Put the car on a lift
Remove exhaust system, drive shaft, transmission
Then disconnect the front brake flex hoses
Next disconnect the engine wiring loom
After that remove the 4 bolts that hold the front x-Member to the frame
Lower the car so far that the front x- member can sit on a moveable workbench or trolley
Open the strut nuts from the top
Raise the car on the lift and VIOLA! There your engine sitting on the frontend ***embly.....

I´m glad to this day, that I hadn´t heard about the correct procedure. With my limited skills and equipment it was much easier to get to engine out to the top, hahahaha

I hope he never reads this, but I also have caught him and his co-workers pulling their BMW engines out the top lately....
My two cents to the OP: Don´t overthink, take your time, think about the logical next step and don´t ask too many people, because that way you get too many confusing opinions which all may be true and applyable under certain conditions. Trust yourself and see what happens.

 

park it sideways to the driveway slope maybe.....side to side slope might not be as big a problem as far as leveling, shimming , keeping control of stuff.

 

Not reading anything into what you said, I'm referencing that Most people that pull an engine usually replace front and rear seals in their transmission while they have the engine out.............Seals in old cars are known for drying up and people learn that its usually best to just go ahead and replace them.

Whether he removes the driveshaft or not, you are still saying to jack the rear end up which negates the emergency brake from helping hold the car.

Put "something" under the rear wheels. Then that takes some of the weight off the jack stands and makes it easier to slip backwards. He can't put something under the rear wheels until he has jacked it up, which means the emergency brake isn't helping any. Guess thats why he needs the "tether" you suggested to hold the car .

Why don't you quit making personal accusations and just talk about the subject. I don't make stuff up. I have no idea what the angle of the OPs driveway is, but at the end of your video it "appears" that the angle of your driveway isn't as steep as the OPs driveway. I can also see the driveway next door to yours and its not very angled. Also, you state "look at how fast your car rolls back" and you admit that you used your brake to control the roll. Now if his drive is steeper than yours and he is standing outside his car, maybe underneath the front of it or leaning under the hood........whats he going to do if it starts moving. He isn't going to be sitting in the drivers seat pumping the brake.
Most of us have had some "o****" moments when something went awry while we were working. I'm just trying to help HIM, you apparently just want to make personal comments. As far as the driveway angle comparison goes, people can look at the end of your video and compare your drive and your neighbors drive to his and make their own decision if they are the same or not. Even if they are similar, you had to use your brake to slow your car.


The thing that everyone skips over is not that removing the engine or engine/trans is difficult, but that jacking the car up and then having to wiggle things to get them loose while its jacked up on an angle can cause the car to shift and fall. Engines don't always come free from the automatic trans or even the engine mounts without persuasion. Things get snagged on other things and start pulling against the car and shifting its weight slightly. The transmission doesn't want to come off the pins or the flexplate hangs up. You are an experienced mechanic and you know all of these things can and do happen.

Then there is the issue of reinstalling the motor while sitting in the driveway. Thats a little more difficult than pulling it out.

 

I think there's over thinking here. He's got the room. if, If, IF the motor needs to come out, then:

1. Move the other car to where the wife's is. The wife has to park behind it, outside, for a day, **** it up princess

2. Pull the project halfway in with the cherry picker in front.

3.Lift the motor, push car out the drive into the street, using the brakes.

4.Back the truck up the drive, load the motor into the truck.

5.Put wife's car back, then decide which car you want to be in the garage with the wife's until the motor is ready.

-rick

 

This guy and this whole page is really silly, please remove it before somebody hurts themself , their car , the bricks on the driveway or a neighbor.

 

Or a jet engine falls off and hits the car because of the cobblestone and angle

 

That's a real issue with a car turned around nose out. The open garage door will often be too close over the cherry picker to get enough height to pull the engine. Plus the car will likely be against the back of the garage so you have to wrestle the cherry picker out towards the open door instead of pushing the car back once it's up in the air. And if you close the door to gain clearance then you end up not being able to pull the cherry picker back with the door down.
Unless it's a pretty deep garage this rarely works out. Been there' and tried this.

 

My little single car shop is only 20 ft. deep, so had to push the car out partway to setup the cherry picker. Then get the engine raised up and push the car back inside to be under it. I pushed and pulled the cherry picker a little, but not easy by myself since the floor system doesn't allow it to roll easily. It's easier to move the car than the cherry picker!


Once the engine/trans was located I fabricated all the motor mounts and trans crossmember and welded them in. Pushed the car partway out again, and took the cherry picker apart and put it back in my storage building.
I built my entire car in this 10'x20' shop by myself. I did have a little help getting the car into the shop when I first began the build. I used my Suzuki quad to pull it around back to the shop and had two friends kicking the tires to steer it as no steering column. Once it got halfway in I ran the quad out the side door and we pushed it inside. After that it was all on me, as it usually is on my builds.
Did the same method with my two previous builds in the same little shop.

 

I pledge to never open this thread again.
I want to keep my respect. Bye Bye

 

CHICKEN!!!! LOL

Ben

 

OP needs a "sticky" index for this car.

 

We just had an a UPS airplane's engine fall off during take off last week. Everyone on board killed and a few people at the businesses nearby. Major damage to nearby property and ecological damage. When the pilot realized the problem, it was too late to abort. One of the businesses was a junkyard. Hope no one was pulling an engine out.
**** happens.............and they have certified mechanics doing the work.

Skip to the 1 minute mark..........

https://www.google.com/search?q=aer...ate=ive&vld=cid:0fdcf0cb,vid:uq3SmmMptx0,st:0

 

We might as well close up shop and wait to die I guess

 

A shame for sure but I'm thinking every person on the planet has seen the YouTube videos.
137 times!

 

So, I plan to make this my last post on this thread. Criticize whatever some of you want, but nothing you say changes the fact that trying to pull an engine on a sloped surface is not the best way to do it.


Here is my last suggestion to the op, and I think it may be the easiest and safest given his situation.

1. Drain the radiator somewhere convenient near by your house.
2.Back the car in the garage and leave the door up with the nose close to it.
3. Jack the car up on the level floor and set the jack stands in place. Drain the engine oil and remove the driveshaft and install a yoke on the tailshaft. Drain some trans fluid if you can. Put a jack (preferably a trans jack) but a floor jack with a piece of wood can suffice under the transmission.
4. Unbolt the transmission crossmember but leave the trans attached. Also unhook shifter and exhaust and wiring etc.
5. Go up topside and remove everything you need to remove. You may have to crawl under the car again for something so keep it on the stands for now.
6. Once you have everything removed that needs removing...... Let the car down and contact someone with a small wrecker with a boom. When they arrive , you can roll the car slightly out of the garage so you have plenty of room and set the emergency brake and rear chocks. It would be helpful if you bought one of those "adjustable engine tilters" from Harbor Freight or Amazon and had it attached to the engine, but you can get by without one. When the wrecker is hooked up, You, your wife, a friend , a neighbor should get in the car and hold the brakes . Its best if you can be next to the car to wiggle and watch for snags. Wrecker lifts the engine and trans out, and sets it in the back of your truck parked nearby. An old tire sitting in the bed will work good .......or he can sit it on your garage floor on a cart from Harbor Freight .......or even in an engine stand for you.
7. If you have another engine ready, he can reinstall it for you. While the transmission is sitting in your shop you can EASILY put new front and rear seals in place and install a new transmission filter. I'd buy one of those flat plastic drain pans ..........again Harbor Freight to keep the floor clean. You will find it much easier to do this work in your shop and then reattach the trans when the engine is ready, and reinstall them as one unit.
7a. If you don't have another engine ready, you can either roll the car back in the garage (I would) or let the car roll down the driveway enough to park it and chock it and set the emergency brake till the repaired engine is available. You can jockey the other car back into the garage while waiting on the repairs. It could take a while...........month or more. Then have the wrecker push the car back up the drive with that old tire between the wrecker and the car. Then turn around and sit your engine back in the engine bay for you.


NOW, if I was stuck in a situation like you have ...........that is how I would do it. Lot safer and a lot easier to do the work. You don't need a very big wrecker, to do it. You will have better control of all the cir***stances you encounter from keeping the dirty oil where you want it to keeping the vehicle stabilized while working. I'm reasonably sure the naysayers will have a problem with this somewhere somehow, but I think its about as good a situation as you can get under your cir***stances.

Nuff said.......

 

I stopped watching the news 15 years ago. Best decision I ever made.

 

But that would surely impact the Tesla access, already specified by the op?

 

Yep. No need to jack up the rear

 

This will also help to negate the danger that the wife's Tesla will burst into flames and burn the house down, even if it is just for that one and only day.
If we're really lucky, the Tesla will get taken out by the falling jet engine.....

 

I have not read anywhere on the multiple threads, about pulling the valve covers and checking out the valve train. I suggested it while back on Eth727 other thread. I’d take the pushrods out, one by one, and roll them on a piece of gl***. Place it right back in where it came from and don’t flip it over. Put it right back in there like it came out. Check the rockers for wear, look for broken valve springs. Are the rockers going up and down the same height while it’s turning over. I wouldn’t do anything in the driveway. I got turned in to CODE ENFORCEMENT this Monday morning. Had a vehicle parked halfway on the driveway, two wheels in the dirt. Luckily no wrenching was going on at this time. He seen the engine hoist and got an instant hard on. Asking what the hoist was for. I told him it was to help get the mother-in-law in and out of the car. I told I would just park all my **** out in the street. Everything legal. I told we got the wheels out of the dirt and into the street. He said he didn’t have a problem with that. I said you don’t have a problem with it , but the street sweeper, the branch and leaf pick up crew, and the city bus drivers , trash trucks

will. He got the final word in of course, MAKE SURE YOU MOVE THEM EVERY 72 HOURS!!!