What's the best orientation to kill the engine ? Placing the kill switch between battery and starter like NHRA normal rules. When looking at the Painless diagram it looks like the alternator power would go into the fuse box letting the engine run even if the battery switch was turned to off. Battery disconnect switch says to run power wire from alternator to switch. The midi fuse wiring directions
looks like you can't use the disconnect switch with anything that charges more than 20 amps. eh? so the 6 gauge wire and midi fuse are not gonna work with it, nor is your 140 amp alternator.
Is that rating for the battery contact, or the alternator contact? Looks to me like it's probably for the battery contact (the big one), not for the alternator contact (the small one). Maybe you could ask Taylor and find out?
Assuming it’s two separate circuits on the switch, big ones to switch the main battery cable, small ones to switch the ignition feed (no jumper between the two circuits).
To kill the motor or disconnect all power? Kill switch to the coil will stop the motor and prevent it from starting but will retain the rest of the electrical. A battery disconnect will kill everything.
Just on the phone with Painless tech guy, he says it will kill the engine if you wire the kill switch alternator wire between battery and midi fuse, then follow diagram in manual that I posted. It just looks like to me by having the alternator wire and the wire powering the fuse box on the same side of the midi fuse that it'll just make a loop in power.
^^^I saw that one but the lugs are so small, the big Moroso has huge lugs. I love huge lugs. Correct. I have found the alternator will continue to power the fuse box while it is spinning unless you isolate it with a four pole switch.
There is a lot to unpack here but this is under the seat in my PU. I located the battery and fuse panel there so it made sense to run the one wire alt lead here as well. One breaker for the incoming power from the alt, one breaker for the outgoing power to the power center. 1. power in from alt 2. 4 pole kill switch 3. battery 4 out to the power center Throw the switch and everything stops.
Always run the Alt Charge wire to the Battery side of any disconnect / isolator switch. This prevents a loop feedback where the charge keeps the engine running. It also protects the Alternator from any "spikes", an alternator shouldn't be disconnected while charging at RPM. The issue with Alternators being connected to the battery side of the disconnect is it is always live. On our race cars we add a "Vishay"100a-150a diode to the charge wire, so it will charge but not discharge. Now if safety is absolutely paramount , the best method is to use a Ford Starter relay at the battery so the main cable is dead unless cranking. You then run a separate Fused 40a-60a wire from the battery to run everything else [with the isolator switch inline] The Ford relay requires a "start" wire to activate it ,and the starter solenoid needs to be bridged. I have seen 2 race cars burn to the ground because the main battery cable from a trunk mounted battery severed. [ 1 was a flywheel explosion, the other was a T-Bone accident]
Agreed on the Ford starter relay. I didn't run one on the truck due to space constraints but in my picture above you can see the positive cable from the battery going to the cut off switch only, the starter lead is also wired from the kill switch.
With NHRA a trunk mounted battery requires a rear mounted isolator switch. Bit FIA and SCCA require the isolator switch to be at the base of the windshield / fender area. [this is the problem that can cause fires] Don't discount the Vishay diode , it has saved me from alternator short circuits on several occasions when tinkering in the engine bay. On my last race car we had a simple 40a toggle switch mounted in an Aerial hole on the front fender [using the Ford Relay at the battery]
I am sure you meant trunk, and that is correct. I moved my battery to the trunk in my 442 and did not pass tech due to no isolator in back. I will research the Vishay diode. I had never heard of one.
Corrected . I actually meant "Boot" I've seen Tech guys walk down the Dummy Grid at race meetings and switch off all the isolators [any car still running wasn't allowed to race] ps: its called the Dummy grid because we are all "Dummies" Google "Vishay VS-150EBU04 https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/schottky-diodes-rectifiers/3952594 I used a pair [back-to back] to make a diode shunt ,when fitting an Alternator with an Ammeter [it works great]
Watching “Road Kill Garage” last night, Frieburger was wiring his Frod 30 Model A coupe. He used a couple of continuous duty relays on the main and fuse block circuits, triggering them with simple toggle switches. His main battery shutoff was out the back per NHRA regs, and was on the short cable between the battery and the main relay. With it set up that way, he has toggles set up on the firewall, the console, and in the trunk so he can shut off the power without having to run to the back of the car while also having the mechanical switch requirement to be NHRA legal.
this is why I keep my Chevy II at 10.00 or slower, and have the battery up front...no need for the cutoff switch per NHRA.
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