...as long as the wire is sized large enough for the load and you re-identify the white neutral with black tape and it's truly a dedicated plug. Bottom line: if you don't fully understand what you're doing and what will happen, hire an electrician. I won't go through the horror stories I have before, just suffice it to say that saving a buck by doing your electrical work could cost someone their life. If you're determined to do it on your own, get books, study, ask questions, and do it right. Not wanting to spend the money to do something up to code is no excuse in electrical work. There's no such thing as a "ratrod" electrical installation, it's just plain suicide or murder...
You're actually paying for kilowatt-hours, but yes - it's not going to be any cheaper to run the drill on 240vac, it'll draw the same amount of watts at either voltage. Power factor is not a factor here (pun intended) - while the power company monitors power factor on a three phase service, they don't monitor it on a single phase service.
I say anytime you can lower your eddy current with less hysteresis you gotta go for it...... don't ya?
poor power factor reduces efficiency, but I think I already said it won't make much of a difference as far as you'd see on a bill...
The "efficiency" issue isn't necessarily with saving money on your power bill, it's with the longevity of the motors life. Motors are not a resistive load, they are a non linear load. If you look at the nameplate on most motors you will see a rating for power factor. Power factor is the amount of inductive reactance (Xl) or capacitive reactance (Xc) the motor will influence on the voltage source. Basically these are a measure of how much the current will lead or lag the voltage curve because of the motors induced voltage... I can talk this crap all day long. The only point I was trying to make originally is that the motor will last longer and work better at the higher voltage (220V in this case).
Here is all the info. I can find on the motor- Industrial Motor HP 1.5 MOD NO. APP-150-4P VOLTS 115/230 AMPS 16.2/8.1 SPA 17.6/8.8 HZ 60 MAX AMB 40 C ENCL TEFC ENCL CONT INS CLB FR 56HZ NEMA DESIGN L TYPE TF LR KVA CODE K OPP BRG 6203 SHAFT END BRG 6205 RPM 1725 SF 1.15
Legally, a certified electrician has to do the install., correct? What's a ballpark $ to run a short line and wire into the breaker box these days?
Not necessarily, anyone can do their own electrical work in their own home. A permit is required only if modifying the wiring of an original circuit, meaning that if the circuit is lengthened or shortened you need a permit. As the old saying goes, "prices may vary" EDIT: I should have clarified that this is the law in Washington state according to the RCW. You're area may be different. The best plan is to contact the authority having jurisdiction in your area and ask them.
That depends on the local code. Some places will allow a homeowner to do the work, properly permitted, of course. Price is going to depend on where you live too. The San Francisco Bary Area rates will be vastly different than say, Ames, Iowa. You should be able to get a local estimate, or a few estimates.
Okay, back to the original question...the motor is 1.5hp, with a full load amp rating of 16.2 at 115vac or 8.1 amps at 230vac. For a motor that big you'll need a dedicated circuit no matter what voltage you use, so you may as well run it at 230vac.
as said, one guy in a garage isn't going to see the difference every month when he pays the electric bill...but also said, with more current you sill have more heat in your motor and lines(though very little and hopefully unmeasurable) IF the lines are the same size when comparing 110 to 220v. With more heat comes more energy, no 2 ways about it, heat is energy. If you've figured out how to make heat without any power I would appreciate a PM as there might be an application or 2...
The Jalopy Journal
