Technical 12" Crescent Wrench & a Cheater?

Trying to re invent a clutch, brake pedal ***embly and before I commit and hook it up I tried to actuate & engaged the throw out bearing/clutch. Should a 12" Crescent wrench and a long cheater actuate the clutch by hand?
Parts;
Ford Flathead, Speedway **** (flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, adapter, etc.) in between Flathead and S10 5 Speed

 

It’s called math, the cl*** some excelled at .Amd if your like me the cl*** you skipped and avoided like the plague!

Look up levers and torque multiplication on your 12” wrench and long cheater and what kind of torque your putting out

Then look up the specs on a T5 or your speed way pressure plate and what’s required to release the clutch pressure plate.


Math man, ****ing math.........

 

Thinking that your clutch pedal wont be that long above the floorboard, is should move very easy with that much leverage.

 

What am I missing?
Why would you twist the throwout arm?

 

Yep, lifting wrench turning shaft counter clockwise.............................................
Nice clear pic's Moriarity, if I have to tear into it now I have something to compare it to.

 

Roger.

 

I am probably mistaken but shouldn't he be pulling it down to keep it from breaking?

 

The correct way to use a crescent wrench is to pull down or against the jaw with the adjustment rather than push away from it but he doesn't have much choice.
It's just a crecent wrench if it breaks it breaks. First day I started teaching Auto Mechanics the first thing I did was lock the collection of Crescent wrenches up in the storage cabinet so the kids got used to using the correct wrench.

Back to the original question, that shouldn't take a serous amount of leverage to work the clutch. If it doesn't move with the crescent and cheater pipe something is drastically wrong.

 

That I knew. I was trying to keep his knuckles in tact, but once I began to say something I began second guessing myself. Been struggling with that a little lately, hope its not a sign of anything really bad.

 

I have to agree with PNB, that is a great way to get broken knuckles and or break the wrench. Every one of those broken jaw Crecent wrenches you find at yard sales was broken that way.

 

I split a 16"once taking an old Ammonia refrigeration system apart. 6' cheater and no busted knuckles but I did manage to bung my elbow up real well and piss the boss off.

Nothing to do with the thread sorry to taking us down the rabbit hole.

 

Are you saying your getting Zero rotation in the shaft? Once the bearing comes in contact with the fingers the bearing only moves about 1/4" so the rotation is very little at best.
The Wizzard

 

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Pist-n-Broke, Sorry about the delay, was taking a break on it for awhile. To answer your question I didn't have much range of motion and when in contact to pressure plat that was the end, no soft spot.
To make sure all parts are compatible I posted pic's;
Is the flat throw out bearing surface correct for the diaphragm clutch?
Is the round part of the fork supposed to be in contact with the bearing and not the other way around?
See anything out of line?
Getting these parts from the customer, threw Speedway, to me was exasperating. I even had to lengthen the cross shaft because it didn't appear to me to have enough going threw the other side, seemed real short...............................
Thanks!

 

All you whiz bang mechanics don't know Crescent is a brand name.
They are ADJUSTABLE wrenches.

 

After Dinner I'll go take some photos and get some travel distance numbers for you. I don't see anything wrong in your photos but I want to go look at some parts to be sure. The clocking of the cross shaft and the dowel pin holding the fork could be an issue limiting the rotation of the shaft once connected to your pedal.
The Wizzard

 

"All you whiz bang mechanics don't know Crescent is a brand name.
They are ADJUSTABLE wrenches."
I sometimes call them Metric Spanners....................................

 

I forgot till I went back to the Top here that you don't have the cross shaft and pedal in place yet. As I remember the face of the Fork that rides against the Back side of the Bearing housing is the radiused side of the Fork.
The Wizzard

 

And a tissue is often called a Kleenex more often than not!

 

Just so we all know what I'm talking about, We are working with Multipliers when it comes to Pedal travel and Bearing movement actuated by the Rotation of a single Shaft. Actual movement of the fingers of a Pressure Plate will very between 3/8" to 3/4" depending on what it's made for. The Stock pre 49 Ford unit moves 1/2" total to do it's job. It will move a total of 3/4" but once the pressure is released more movement is not necessary. What I did is put a silver mark on the housing and the Shaft in full release position.
This mark is a heavy 1/16" wide.
I then put a 3/4" spacer behind the Bearing fork to simulate full clutch pedal travel. You can see that the rotation of the shaft is not the full width of the Silver mark, so not quite 1/16". I think with that big long cheater bar you probably didn't feel the clutch give.
Also your correct on the Fork. The curved pad goes to the Bearing and notice the access to the roll pin and the web in the fork itself.
I just don't see anything wrong with what you have going on. I'd go ahead hand hook up the pedal and see where your at then.
The Wizzard

 

Are all Ford throw out bearings, no matter the pressure plat, flat faced?

 

I believe that is so. I do not have a crowned bearing in a Ford carrier like the Diaphragm style G.M,s use.
The Wizzard

 

That's how I see it!
Will be on it again in the morn, thanks for all the info, I know it's time consuming!

 

No problem, hope I'm helping a little.

 

Fixed that...

 

When I lived in Australia they were called a shifting spanner.