Someone said to get a voltage regulator for a 64 mustang. Well I got one and can't figure out how to wire it. It has 4 spade conecters A, F, S, and I. Can some one tell me how to wire this in a 1950 ford f-1 with stock gages? Thanks Jim
Buy a few Runtz reducers,,, Runtz reducers allow you to use your original 6 volt electronic devices (like gauges) on a vehicle that has been converted to 12 volts. You will need a runtz for each 6 volt electric gauge on your car. You can get them from Speedway Motors. HRP
You can google the wiring diagram http://lmgtfy.com/?q=mustang+voltage+regulator+wiring but whoever told you this would drop your 12 to 6 was wrong. You do need a voltage regulator but one with those terminals is just a common external regulator for an alternator....just maintains your voltage at or around 12 to 14 volts. Get the runtz as suggested by HRP.
This is what I used to run a 6V large logo SW fuel gauge in my 34 P/U Someone suggested a part from a mustang but it was 40 or 50 bucks from a parts store. I got a Runtz from Ebay for 10 busks delivered. The guy was slow sending it so he sent me 2. My particular one has 3 wires 12V supply, ground and the wire to connect to the 6V gauge. It came with instructions and works like a champ. So much simpler than the huge ceramic insulated resistor that we used in the early 60s.
Jim, "voltage regulator" as in the one under the dash -that's the one for the gauges- ->And thats what your buddy was referring to, not the one for the alternator/under the hood. Here's what you need to know.... Pretty well All Ford gauges are ~4.5 volt up into the 1980's or 90's including your 1950 gauges. The "behind the dash" (or more than likely "attached to the back of the instrument cluster") regulator is more commonly known as a CVR Or Constant Voltage Regulator. Mac's Antique Auto sells them, The Constant Voltage Regulator (late 50's up) steps down the "New" 12 volts (introduced about '57ish) to the correct voltage for pre ~57 gauges. So, ... Simple 12 volt conversion for most older Ford cars requires that you use/instal a CVR for your old gauges in order for them to read correctly on 12volts. Many models of CVR were made, All are basically the same other than some use odd ball connectors and therefor are harder to instal inline in say a 50 Ford. I'm not sure exactly what years actually have the desirable "pigtails" that make it so easy for us to hook them up using common spade style crimp wiring/connectors and our handy wire crimping tool but Yes, Mid 60's Mustang/Ford would have spade style connectors for easy installation behind the dash. Here is what your buddy was referring to: (click the link for actual website/view) http://macsautoparts.com/ford-musta...or-c6dz-10804-a/camid/MUS/cp/JS0R3CHL1082108/ Home > Shop Parts For 1964-73 Ford Mustang > Ford Mustang Instrument Cluster Constant Voltage Regulator Ford Mustang Instrument Cluster Constant Voltage Regulator <table class="layout-table fillwidth" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td class="align-left"> <table class="fillwidth" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td class="bold">Year</td> <td class="bold">Part Number</td> <td class="bold">Required Number</td> <td class="bold">Unit Of Measure</td> </tr> <tr> <td>1967-1968</td> <td>C6DZ-10804-A</td> <td>1</td> <td>EACH</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table class="layout-table fillwidth" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center" valign="top"> </td> <td style="padding-left:10px;" align="left" valign="top"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> If all of your dash gauges read the maximum, the cause is the constant voltage regulator. Its only job is to feed a steady 5 volts to your gauges. When its defective it allows more current to pass through, and that pegs your needles at the maximum. Replace it and restore proper gauge function. Mounts on the back of the gauge cluster. Warning: the battery must be disconnected when installing this part. </td> <td style="width: 229px;" align="center" valign="top"> <table style="margin: 0px auto;" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td nowrap="nowrap"> </td> <td nowrap="nowrap">View Larger</td> </tr> </tbody></table> Tell A Friend About This Item </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table class="table-order fillwidth" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><th style="width: 10px;"> </th><th class="align-left" style="width: 74px;"> PART #</th><th class="align-left" style="width: 400px;"> DESCRIPTION</th><th class="align-left" style="width: 120px;"> PRICE</th><th class="align-left" style="width: 40px;"> QTY</th></tr><tr><td> </td><td class="valign-top">C6DZ-10804-A</td><td class="valign-top">Ford Mustang Instrument Cluster Constant Voltage Regulator</td><td class="valign-top align-left">$23.95 EACH</td><td class="valign-top align-left"><input size="2" maxlength="6" name="qty_JS0R3CHL1082108" id="qty_JS0R3CHL1082108" value="1" type="text"></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2"> </td><td colspan="3"> </td></tr></tbody></table> These are a standard reliable Ford part and were used on millions and millions of vehicles with or without the easily wired in pigtail connections (of about 1964)- Here's something to think about, there is one behind the dash of every Ford vehicle at your local pick a part or auto wreckers from 1950's to 80's or 90's but only the mid 60's use the pigtails.. Personally, I don't/won't use the offshore/chinese/after market shunts/ RESISTORS. chinese knock offs -They aren't and Never will be an actual Constant Voltage Regulator. Or CVR (as Ford refers to them). JMHO but a shunt is a shunt, a runtz is about the same, a resistor is a resistor - and a Constant Voltage Regulator is a CVR. -You can use a runtz for your radio if so equipped but use a CVR for your Ford gauges is in keeping with Correct Ford wiring/practices, this will insure Correct/Accurate Readings with your rare/hard to come by original equipment Ford gauges (unlike a resistor/runtz). Resistors/Runtz/Shunts dissipate voltage via heat, they do not regulate And a regulator (CVR) does not use heat to dissipate excess voltage. "a shunt (runtz)is a device which allows electric current to pass around another point in the circuit by creating a low resistance path. The term is also widely used in photovoltaics to describe an unwanted short circuit between the front and back surface contacts " Is that what you really want? A Short Circuit? That short circuit causes your alternator to pump harder and create more voltage/amperage once it sees this "Fake" short circuit. The short circuit inside a runtz/shunt creates the heat (it's a short!) which in turn dissipates some of the voltage that would normally go to much lesser voltage circuits. -This is not regulating, this is short circuiting. hope this makes sense, and please make up your own mind up as to how you'd prefer to short circuit, erhummm, I mean regulate your 65 year old currently working quality Ford gauges. jmfo moe .
BTW, only one CVR is required for all/inclusive vintage Made In America Ford gauges and it is easily wired inline. and if you want to see one up close and personal, go down to your local pick and pull and look behind the gauge cluster of a 70's Ford truck, again, it will have the wrong connectors but it will give you an idea as to what your Friend was talking about (if you can find a mid 60's car truck look there - but Good Luck!)
Bought one on ebay 12v/to 6v 15 amp .Runs all gauges plus instrument lights plus clock. Works good (4 years). $35.00
I called my local Ford dealer and they have no stock available. Is there another #? <table class="fillwidth" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td>1967-1968</td> <td>C6DZ-10804-A</td> <td> </td></tr></tbody></table>His price shows 6$ ea, bummer.
I wonder if something like this would be good and last? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Converter-12V-Step-down-to-6V-15W-Power-Supply-/250865670470
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