I need to put a new floor in the back of my 53 chevy wagon. I'm wondering if I should use 18 or 20 gauge. I have enough 20 to do it but I don't want to regret it later. Anyone have experience on big flat floors? Would it even make a difference? Either way It will have cross braces to support the seat and I picked up some light 1/2" square tubing in place of rolled beads. I just don't want it to sound like a huge oil can when you get in. Thanks -JAM
On big, flat panels, 20 gauge (gage) is going to be too thin. I also think that your 1/2" tubing should be a complement to rolled beads, and not a replacement for them, if you really want to prevent any oil-can effects.
I am currently putting a floor in my Tudor with 16 ga. I think the 20 would be a bad idea. The 18 would be fine but you might want to put some beads in it for some strength to prevent the tin canning. You will never regret using the thicker stuff. Just my thoughts on the subject.
No way I'd use 20 ga. Go with 18. If you don't have a bead roller, go to a sheet metal shop and have them make and bead roll the parts for you. I have stuff made all the time. It's usally cheaper than I can make the parts myself, and you end up with a nicer finished product.
i am putting 18g in the floor of the 54... no beads, but i also have 1" square tube for body/frame braces and 1/2" tube for cross braces as well... if i had it to do over, and will in the next one i have to do, i'd go with the same setup, only i'd roll beads into the pans as well
If you can make 16 work go with that. I used 18 and still have a few weak spots but it's easy to work with. Dont use 20 at all.
16 gauge with no beads 18 gauge with bead rolling most old panels were made with 19 but floors have ribs and beads for days Rodger
The 16 in my is making a nice floor. Very strong, no tinning, and the thickness makes it easy to weld. 16 is tough to cut and lay out but you will appreciate when its done. I was second guessing it when I started but I would do it again.