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Projects 1920 T Roadster Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by -Brent-, Apr 11, 2010.

  1. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks, man. I'd like to have this completed as fast as your 31. I picked up the body October 31, 2009. I wonder where I'll be when the 1 year anniversary comes around? It's coming fast, that's for sure.
     
  2. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    The frame is 99% complete. The only thing left to do before primer and paint is clean up the welds and drill a hole for the grill shell and radiator.

    Really, the only thing that was necessary was to notch the front for the steering but I wanted to add some aesthetic pieces to the frame too. As well, there were some holes I wanted to fill with weld and they've got to be cleaned up.

    P9111121.JPG

    P9111122.JPG

    Above is where the frame was notched. I used Model T frame steel. I took a 1 3/8" out of the front of the frame rails, just before the mount. Then I trimmed them to fit into the notch.

    P9161137.JPG

    Here is the final product. This photo and the ones that follow don't represent the frame too well. The sun was setting and I'm not so great taking photos in low light.

    Anyhow...

    P9161141.JPG

    P9161135.JPG

    I drilled some holes and put rivets in and had Wendell weld them in. It's got a little bit more of an authentic look. I'm not trying to pull the wool over anyones eyes, the welds can be plainly seen. To me, it needed them.

    P9161140.JPG

    P9161132.JPG

    There's a another, smaller plate at the second kick-up transition. I just couldn't get a satisfactory picture. I'm not happy with these photos of the rivet plates but I wanted you to get an update.

    I made some templates out of card-stock and brought them to a guy I have do plasma cutting for me. I drilled some holes and popped rivets through. Then I trimmed the shafts off of the rivets and they were tigged in from the back. The welds are going to be softened up (knocked down).

    So, this weekend, the plan is to clean up the frame and shoot it (and the wheels) with epoxy primer and some paint.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2010
  3. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    I picked up four 1928/29 Model A 21" wheels at swap meet earlier this summer for $50. Problem was, three of them had cracks, a common problem with these wheels.

    However, In my search for 21s I had talked to several old timers that had cautioned me to keep an eye for cracks but not to worry because they could be welded/repaired. Needless to say, I was hesitant upon hearing that but when I found these wheels for $50, I figured I'd give it a shot.

    The end of each crack got drilled out and the cracks themselves got V'd. Then they were welded from both sides. So, we'll see how they hold up. I'll keep an eye on them but I'm not going to worry... the roads aren't like they were in the 30's. :)

    P9161128.JPG

    P9161130.JPG

    P9161129.JPG

    P9161127.JPG

    So, that's about it for today. This weekend more I'll post more progress.
     
  4. Brent, this is such a Kickarse build I have really enjoyed watching it progress. Keep it going!
     
  5. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,603

    Stovebolt
    Member

    X2 :)
    Can't wait to see this one finished
     
  6. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks fellas! I appreciate it.
     
  7. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Brent, Your build is getting closer to some time out there on the highway ! Bet you are getting excited also. Looking forward to your progress as you start detailing your rod out.
     
  8. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    I just got back from painting for the majority of the day. The frame is now in primer, as are the wheels and miscellaneous parts that I had blasted.

    The paint I used on the frame is a true 2k Epoxy primer (from SprayMax), which comes in an aerosol can. It's a little pricey ($17 a can) but seemed to spray well even though there's only 14.1 oz per can. My only options were light colors so if I end up going with a color to match the body, I'll give it the once-over with red oxide before I paint.

    Here are photos of the frame, I pulled it outside for photos.

    Frame in Epoxy Primer.JPG

    Kick Up.JPG

    Rivet Plate Welds Smoothed.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2010
  9. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,715

    Royalshifter
    Moderator
    from California

    Those rivet fishplates look really cool.
     
  10. 38standard
    Joined: Jan 4, 2010
    Posts: 322

    38standard
    Member
    from il.

    Black frame,black body, black wheels, you can't go wrong....
     
  11. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,631

    GARY?
    Member

    your not gonna' paint those side plates to look like dice are you? :eek::D

    Seriously, your work looks great.
     
  12. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks, Skip!

    You know, you're right... I've got three projects lined up and I'd be fine if they were all black on black on black. But, I'm going to paint this one a dark navy, midnight-almost-black-blue.

    Ha! I hadn't thought of it... but now that you mention it... :D
     
  13. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,631

    GARY?
    Member

    Got mine out for it's first big drive. All 80 miles looked about like this :rolleyes:
    Them T's got the gow!!!
     

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  14. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,786

    Paul
    Editor

    frame looks great, nice and stout
    I really like the riveted plates too

    they do look like dice, or -bent- dominos :)
     
  15. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,091

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    freakin killer... LOVE the frame.
     
  16. 42 chevy
    Joined: Nov 1, 2006
    Posts: 623

    42 chevy
    Member

    Looking great! I love the style you are working towards, it is classy.
     
  17. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Fish plates are way Rad!!! Can't wait to see more Brent!
     
  18. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks so much, fellas. Here's a little sneak peak of the frame-in-progress. It looks a lot better in black. It's not done yet but it's getting there.

    Sneak Peak Frame in Black .JPG

    Sneak Peak 2 Frame in Black.JPG

    I got a few more things in epoxy primer. As well, I cleaned the exhaust of all the grease and rust. Its former duty was as a drive shaft so it had a good deal of sludge and grime. About an hours labor and it looked a great deal better.

    Exhaust stripped of grease, rust, and goo..JPG

    And finally in high-temp paint.

    Painted with high-temp paint.JPG
     
  19. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Brent, The frame is looking great. Really likt those riveted on plates-kind of a throw back to when they were building T's ! Looking forward to updates as your Roadster comes together. It's one bad machine.
     
  20. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks, Dave.

    All you guys are helping me to stay focused. It's appreciated. I'd like to have the frame finished this week so I can move onto getting it back into rolling form.

    The body will be back soon, that's going to be a fun update... a few neat things going on with that.
     
  21. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Brent. Can you go into detail on your exhaust ? I knoe it is a stock head pipe and then connects to a torque tube/drive shaft. What shaft did you use - or what size is it ? I love the look. It is simple - but straight forward.
     
  22. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,715

    Royalshifter
    Moderator
    from California

    If it was up to Dave he would help you build it!!!!
     
  23. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    I had a muffler shop make a new down-pipe based on the original I had. The tube is a 1936 Ford driveshaft cut where the transition was close to the down-pipe size. It transitions back down at the other end of the shaft, but it was trimmed before the transition to what you see now.
     
  24. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    I could use the help! :D
     
  25. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Great build! Fantastic! What did we all do before MIG?
    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     
  26. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    TT in Black.JPG

    Got the frame in the first coat of black. Tomorrow it'll get some sanding and another coat of black.
     
  27. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Looking grrrrreeaaaattt Brent!!!
     
  28. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Brent, Really like that frame with a fresh coat of black paint. It is like a slab of marble ready for some jewel like decorations . . . Nah, just keep installing parts as they are painted. Looking for the frame when it is a roller !
     
  29. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    Stock Model A perches aren't long enough to fit through the later front bones. So, a modification needed to happen. It's not completed yet but I'll take you as far as I've gotten so far.

    First four pics are how the perch was situated originally (during mock-up).

    Perch from Top.JPG

    Perch From Side.JPG

    Perch from Bottom.JPG

    You can see how there was not enough thread at the bottom.

    Marked for Cut.JPG

    I measured the thinner bottom section and match the top to it. I marked both sides and got the 4.5" cutting wheel out. There's a thread showing a similar job with a band saw. I was going to use my friend's saw but he was out of town, so I used what I had. Plus, I'm like Da Vinci with this tool now, since it's one of my most-used tools. :D

    P9251172.JPG

    P9251177.JPG

    Partially cut.

    P9251182.JPG

    P9251184.JPG

    Trimmed and checking out the available thread. Next, is clean-up and prep for the chamfer/countersink.

    P9251185.JPG

    This is the area that needs to be counter"sunk". I picked up a 1-1/4" counter sink to use but the shaft was to big for the chuck. So, I'll have to see what I can find on Monday.

    P9251189.JPG

    P9251191.JPG

    P9251186 copy.jpg

    P9251193.JPG

    P9251194.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2010
  30. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,704

    -Brent-
    Member

    P9251196.JPG

    Shaped up.

    Post Cut Comparison.jpg

    Post cut comparison w/ a 32 bone.

    Only thing left to do is to countersink them. Hopefully I can find a countersink locally rather than somewhere online where I'll have to wait.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2010

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