One big reason for running the ruckstell is wheel brakes. Left with only the trans brake and fiddling to find one of 138 gears could cause problems in a growing panic... Modern transmission is the sensible way forward. I have a Volvo M40 as an option. But. It's just not as cool in my opinion This Chevy trans has square inch drives both ends so it will slide straight into a T set up. 2nd gear, I think, will be useable. And it's deffo closed drive
If newer gearboxes are in play, I doubt, the M40 is the best way, as you still end up with a 1:1 high gear ratio. They are ok (but not great. Have broken one in my 221- housing simply cracked open) for up to 120hp, but they are getting hard to find in good conditions too. I have plenty of them (8 or 9 at my last count), but if I were to go through the troubles (shorter torque tube/open drive, re-ancoring rear wishbone/split wishbone), I would (and maybe will be) going with the newer, more durable and by now, cheaper, M47 or M90. But I'm getting of topic- if this is to far astray, let me know, and I'll edit/delete this post, as I meant not to offend anyone.
If I use the M40 then I would be content with no OD but keep the torque tube. That's a must. I'm currently working on a housing to mount the torque tube and UJ on the back of the Volvo. The other consideration for me is, having the chev4 on the T oil pan and lining up the transmission drums with the bands is more difficult than running the T trans direct, without the drums and using a gearbox behind along with mechanical brakes. That was the real reason for considering an extra transmission. To use the T trans I need an unwelcome spacer between crank and input shaft. Then the whole OD thing came along. If I flip the chev box with no T slow speed I have no underdrive...
While helping my son build his '54 Studebaker wagon we both became fond of Borg Warner ODs. I am using a T86 three speed with OD in my '26 Chevy roadster build. I'm adapting a floor shift top plate from a T90. There are tons of old OD transmissions out there to fit lots of bolt patterns. Most ODs from the 30s through 60s were BW units.
OK, You know it's going behind a 153 Chevy four so that will be easier than the old Chevy engines. I didn't really get into the older ones until after I had invested a lot in the 153. I am trying to build the car so that later I can build one of my '28 engines and maybe swap out the newer one. One plan may include a Ford four crank and Durant or Ford rods.
I bought both Andy's Chevy motors and the Olds head, I have a Gerber style special planned but am trying to finish a house renovation just now so it may take some time!
Great and how did I miss your threads? Some fun stuff there. Thanks for the reply I'll be doing some reading there.
After some hiatus I’m back on track-ish All the ch***is components are still there waiting in the shipping container. As stated above Blackbob had all my Chev stuff but I now have a ‘25 block and a head. Interestingly enough I came across a copy of the Vintage Chev owners clubs monthly magazine in which it states John Gerbers magneto set-up after he ditched the chain drive from the back of the generator. He got rid of the generator and drove a Bosch DU4 directly from the cam gear using a 26 tooth gear from a Samson truck (which had the 490 motor also) less than a cat in hells chance of finding one of those but then, I thought that about a generator and one popped up on eBay 50 miles from me. Also found a guy here in the U.K. who will weld the cam and re grind it so something more useful. Model A tappets appear to fit the ‘25 block Pistons remain an expensive problem. What the hell has happened to the prices?!! so I’ve decided to take Herbs idea to bolt some discs on top of the pistons and use A rods And I’m still YET to find anyone who will confidently bolt the T transmission shaft to the Chevrolet crank flange with any confidence of accuracy. Any takers?? But it’s nice to be a****st the old s**** again
The Bosch DU4 is a base mounted magneto and is interchangeable with the International Harvester E4A and the F4 and probably many more The IH magnetos are usually clock wise rotation you will need to determine direction of rotation you need they are also driven at crankshaft speed I recommend this book for information on these magnetos I am currently working on a tech article on recharging the magnets on my IH E4A Will be in the antiquated forum on the HAMB so look for it soon Best Regards Todd
Andrew, I just found 2 DU4's mod.2 on ebay. One siad that it was a museum quality. In Florida. Wish I knew how to put up the contact.
There are several/ https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=DU4+Magnito&_sacat=0
Magnetos are not a problem in the U.K. you trip over them in the street Nearly. Regarding the gear drive I woke up in the night with a revelation. Just use a crank gear you idiot….. I like the idea of a bare bones engine, no gen, no oil pump as the flywheel will do that. I’ll do a mock up at the weekend to add some colour to the post
So after a long break I’ve found some space and got back on track of sorts. Most of this car is 100 years old next year so it’s time to get cracking. Pendine in June is the dream but I’ll be happy just to get it driving The target now is a sprint car type ch***is with 50-60 hp The crank is fixed to the T transmission and the inlet side is well on the way with a nice condition Stromberg OE-2
Pistons are staying stock. I’m not messing around with the block anymore. I may do the old ‘Herb Special’ and bolt some plates to the top of the pistons The rockers are also staying stock for now. So much to do and that can be a later job The Cam and followers are off for a re-do. No man should have to run a stock cam in these engines
Also Ford Pinto valves are going in there so with the cam, valves, better intake and exhaust and a bit of head tuning I should be getting up there abouts on power. If not I’ll do the 1:1.5 rocker job too
Also working on the mag drive. I’ve modified the timing cover and back plate and running another crank gear mounted to this Bosch ZA4. It sparks well on the bench, let’s see how it does in the ***anic pressure inside the chambers. Yes, I know, not so ***anic
Interesting stuff. What cam do you have and what are you having done to it? I have a set of rockers that the guy I got my Olds head from said a 2 to 1. He said the speedster group he was racing with outlawed them. What is involved with using the Pinto valves? Did you add counter weights to the crank?
Test with heat on! Use a heat gun (or the missus hair dryer in lack of better), should be warmer than to touch. I’ve had a couple of Scintilla’s go out, when warm, causing quite the headache to track down…
I sent him the stock cam and gave him the specs for Model B. He thinks it’s best to make a new one which is fine with me I sent him the stock cam and gave him the specs for Model B. He thinks it’s best to make a new one which is fine with me Honestly I don’t think I can bring myself to machine the Olds head, I just can’t see it go under the knife I’m sure the biggest problem will be bending rockers with tougher springs the Pinto valves are 42mm head and 8mm stem, same length so will work well I think
Excited for you that you have space for this build! Looking forward to seeing it move along! Incidentally @Andrew Mccann did @Blackbob ever get on with his project?
Thanks. I know how you feel about the head but at this point what else are they good for? My concern with the old stuff is breaking it so it is no good for anyone. I'm also worried that if something happens to me no one will know what all this **** is or worse not care. I've helped a few friends' families deal with stashes and is hasn't worked out well for a lot of cool old stuff.
I went back and read Blackbob's thread with the Olds head stuff. Good info both here & there. Keep it up!
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