I was gonna say, i think the port spacing on the 2-port Chevy and 3-port Olds are the same. - Proud HAMB member since 2008
I get 9 1/4 for both the Chevy 2 port and Olds 3 port. Without removing either manifold from the head. Eyeballing the caliper to the center of the bolts. Still, I think that is the center to center.
CNC just glue up the holes and stick a couple of carb pads on that old rusty '28 intake I sent you and send it MR.T. If you paint it silver he'll never know, he's a Ford guy.
Truth be known, Gerber ran a pair of carbs on his 3 port head without a crossover tube, just bolted them on to the head- said they ran great that way... can't remember what carbs he ran, though
I've previously thought a pair of Amal carbs would be nice to try Has anyone dabbled with bike carbs? After all small chokes maybe the way forward for lower RPMs Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I remembered almost as soon as I posted this that the 3 Port refers to the exhaust and not the intake on these engines.
The up and down bolt hole center looks like 2 3/4. Again, I did not disassemble the intakes to properly measure them. But I bet these are correct.
I have an intake in hand. The centres measure at 2.64 as well as I can tell Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
OK I took mine off and got 2.625. Or 2 5/8. Which seems reasonable. And my best guess long ways is 9.225. Which seems odd.
Ha ha! Whatever Six Ball....so are you. You have a T too.. [emoji12] You gonna seal up my intake with duck tape too? lol! - Proud HAMB member since 2008
Not me. I have a '26 Chevy, but there are a few Ford parts laying around. I've got some Duct tape with flames that would work.
Just you wait- Clayton's gonna have a HARD time explaining why he has to "borrow" Mrs. ModelT's touring all the time, with that 3 port on it!
The wife's car will be a '25 RPU...and will be the "shop truck". I plan to drive it plenty. [emoji12] - Proud HAMB member since 2008
What the hell am I talking about then!? Lol! [emoji15] I'm not sure why you have a '26 Coupe... - Proud HAMB member since 2008
'26 Chevy roadster but it's just a heap of parts. I'm a Jimmy B wana' be. So the wife's T is the shop truck, does that make it the wife's shop? As long as you two have it figured out. Does she like to drive your roadster?
Nice result on Fleabay. A distributor and NOS ignition parts all for the princely sum of £25. Rare to see any '28 Chevy stuff in the uk makes this a real steel for me. Some hard used hub caps also which maybe a nice touch screwed onto the T hubs.... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Pulled out my roadster and cleaned it up today, trying to figure out a centennial paint job for its 100 year birthday in 2017.
She wanted something to drive....I wanted a good excuse to build another T..lol! She can drive a T, but she has not driven my T yet. - Proud HAMB member since 2008
They all have to start somewhere [emoji12] A heap of parts is farther ahead then no parts. - Proud HAMB member since 2008
inlet port diameter on 3 port is smaller than 28 port. Haven't tried enlarging Olds port diameter. (Herb might know if this is possible). Didn't Gerber run winfields? At this stage I am planning on running twin 1 1/4 su. Andrew, these should be readily available in Brexit land.
Plenty of SUs here as you say. Trick would be finding the best flange type depending on what one would want to do. I think the early HS type had up and down type flanges that may be a near fit to bolt straight to the head I may do some measuring Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Short manifold with balance tube should be easy to fab. I think I am using a Wolseley. Earlier su has float bowl parallel with venturi. they are great for low rev so long as you dont go too big - no bigger than twin 1 1/4 which is what alot of the A series motors used. . Herb gave me some advice a while back but cant immediately find posting. Su's were around in the 20s so period correct but hard to find affordable early set. you can make later ones look old though. Thread link below shows my early mock up http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/me-to-a-t.859578/
I think the carburettor is the one thing we can have as non period. I agree, early SUs have become very hard to find. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Can we talk a little about crank counterbalancing (again) Is it worth it worth it for 'now and again' use engine? Is it worth the effort in an engine that won't have pressure oiling and won't see much action over 3000rpm? I get it that the real benefit will be longevity Herb, I know you have done this previously, is there serious mods to be done to the block. Will those mods further weaken the already weaker (by probably not much) '28 block? I have my motor in pieces. If I'm gonna do it I guess it's now or never. If so are there any rough dimensions of the weights stored in anyone's memory? Herb, I'm posting up your crank photo again 1 because it's relevant and 2, more people should see it .... Andy. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This is going to seem a little strange. But my 28 Chevy had been modified for pressure oil in around '48. It was OK then. But by now I wanted to update it some. This is my method. It may seam strange to you. First I changer to JIC fittings and Teflon inner hose
The hose stuck out through the side of the pan. So I welded a NPT to AN fitting to a cap I made and welded the seat for the cap to the pan
Now this is OK. But you are wondering "What if the hose moves over and rubes the crank" I knew I would not be able to sleep worrying about that. So, a port hole in the other side so I could look in and verify all was as it should be. Who do you know that has a port hole in their pan? A four way fitting will be made from aluminum for the oil in side. NPT threads to screw on to the new inlet. a -8 fitting for oil in and two -4 fittings for oil to the front and rear mains. I'll tap the port hole center hole for a plug.
Now if you stick a little camera through the port hole and put a monitor on the dash you can have true piece of mind. Those are some very nice welds by the way.
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