Well these aren't going to get it. So, 28 rockers are what I have. What is the short coming of the stock rockers?
Rich, Not sure if this is what Herb is referring to, but; the stock rockers have a reputation for distorting in everyday use on the stock motor. That is why I want to use the Stovebolt rockers on my '28 head. The ratio is the same; unfortunately for the 4 banger modification, the Stovebolt's rocker set has straight, right hand and left hand rockers meaning that you need a couple of sets of these to get 8 "straight" rockers. In order to get them to fit on the 4 banger rocker shaft the Stovebolt rockers would just need a thicker bush turning up. I posted a photo of two different styles of Stovebolt rocker along with a 4 banger one a bit earlier in this thread - edit: the photo is in post 1968.
The stockers bend in the pivot hole area, so if you find that you have 1/4--3/8" of valve lash some day----- Herb
We will see how it goes. I don't plan on leaning on this thing and have VW valve springs. Around 40 pounds on the seat. This is what I consider a race motor at this stage of life,
The best thing bout this motor is that it isn't mine. I can kind of hang around with these guys and keep up with whats going on. But I don't have to pay for it or do the work.
I located a couple of these engines. What do I need to look for? Obviously the more complete the better but are there any parts impossible to locate or are deal breakers?
Do they turn over? Are there obvious cracks in the block or head? Are there obvious repairs to cracks. Have they stored outside. Just normal old engine stuff. If they have useable parts don't let them be scrapped.
No cracks. Been inside forever. all turn over. Any idea on a fair price? i dont really want them but I dont want them scrapped either
Fair is the best price the owner will let you have them for + the best you will pay. I payed $200 for a very complete one that doesn't turn over and $50 for a less complete one that is in really good shape. '28s have the desired 2 exhaust port head but '25s have a stronger block. I wish they were closer to here.
Any that do not have the central, cam driven, distributor, suffer from the inter-granular corrosion that makes some early diecast parts eventually fall apart . These are the ones with the generator driven by the timing gears out front, and the dist. on the rear of the gen. There is a replacement aluminum piece available, but $$. Engines after '26 are free from this, They have the center mount dist, and belt driven gen. All Chev 4 engines suffer from cam wear, the result of brilliant design, that mates two more or less round surfaces (cam and tappet bottom)at relative high speed and heavy pressure. Lobes get a groove worn at the peak of lift. Does not keep the engine from running, and if the valve lash is kept adjusted, will be quiet. Over the years the performance will gradually lessen, as the valves are lifting less and less. For '28 the cam and tappets were made slightly larger, which helped the problem---but the basic design fault was never cured. Earlier than '28, the engines had a single exhaust port head---BUT-- since so many of the single port heads cracked, dealers would try to sell the owner a "kit" of a dual port head. So a dual port alone does not make an engine a '28. A true '28 block has raised vertical bars cast going down the block, with sheet metal covers (not at all oil tight, or dust proof!) which usually got thrown away--or fell off. All said, the '28's are the best of the lot. All head gaskets back to (I think) '17 are the same, with the exception to a couple of extra round water holes that were put in the rear of the block/head. Useful, and easy to install in earlier pieces.. Use a head gasket for location. MOST C4's have, from top to bottom Head, Block, and sheet metal pan. If you come across what looks like a C4, but looks too tall (if you have another to compare it with) inspect it carefully. If it has head, block, and then another about 2" thick cast iron piece--and then sheet metal pan-- you have a rare bird. Ordinary C4's are 171 CID. The "high block" signifies the same bore size, but 5½" stroke. What you have is the 224 CID engine, used in early trucks, and the "Royal Mail"roadster, and "Baby Grand"touring. These were a much larger car than the then current car, the "190's Early ones of these had the same single exhaust port head (cracked even quicker) Last year for these 224's was '23, and that was the Holy Grail --the three port head. I wouldn't doubt that dealers sold owners on converting, just like the they did with the 171's to two port. These 224's are too frail to try to tun into a "revver", but within that limitation would they pull! All torque, and no revs. When these engines, and the two cars were discontinued. Chevrolet put the 171's in the ton trucks. Imagine a customer, who had a 224 engined truck coming into a dealer, and finding that the factory was installing a smaller engine (with less hill climbing ability) How did the dealer weasel his way out of that one? Less carbon footprint? One last note. Single exhaust port heads can crack inside the port, where only a pressure test will reveal the crack. ALL rocker arms will be bent, unless the engine was never over-reved. Herb. Coffee, please, more coffee.
WTF- If your Dad is looking for something to give me as a birthday gift---- Beautiful '28 Tell your dad that I am the same green with envy--I congratulate him! Herb
i havent gotten them. I could but I dont want to be stuck with something im not into. If someone is interested I could pass along the contact info or go and buy them for someone else
$150 each but missing some little stuff like carb, fan but I cant remember exact details, $300-400 for a complete one, 100 for a good block head crank. I cant remember the exact details of each one but that is pretty close
So this is pretty much the rocker deal now. I am guessing that the guys who originally built this motor in 48 or so, would have used the original rocker shafts and clamps. But after the first time they ran it at Oakland, they decided to build an OHC setup for it. So they milled the top of the head flat. Then they set it aside and never got back to it. Over the decades it passed around and finally I got it. Somebody had decided to use the rocker assembles shown in earlier pictures. But the head isn't very thick there, and I didn't think that was a good idea. One 3/8 bolt per stand, into thin cast iron seemed like asking for a disaster. So I went back to stock rockers and made these stands that use four 1/4 inch bolts to spread the load. I hear the rockers are prone to breakage. If that happens I will fab steel ribs to tig across the tops of the rockers and stiffen them up. I wish I still had my old 2000 Pinto heads around. It looks like it wouldn't be that hard to make a plate with cam towers and adjusters similar to the Pinto to work on this head. Then one could have a real lift and duration cam. And I could use my left over Gold Wing pulley on the cam.
The bad news is that these rockers don't clear my way cool valve cover I made from the BBC cover when I thought I was going to use the other rockers.. Back to the grinder and torch I guess.
You are making this thread more and more interesting. It is good to have someone who has worked with other old fours (besides Fords) to build one of these, especially one that had been started long ago by parties unknown.
I actually have met and spoken to the original builder. That is how I know that they wanted to build an SOHC set up. But never did. He was working on a blown V8-60 engine for a T roadster at the time A very cool person. Anybody who wanted to see what it was like at the end of the fortys needed to meet this guy. He had not changed.
OK. Not much to see here. I am sure the stock factory clamping method was better. But I have to work with what I have now.
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