Projects 1928 Model A 2 dr Phaeton Build

@caprockfabshop progress is looking good, but you know what it takes, I had been thinking about your build thread lately & was wondering where you were up to with it.

 

Been working mostly on this 1961 Chrysler 300-G. Trying to get it done in the next 6months.

 

Okay, so slight change in plans with the windshield.

You know how sometimes stepping back and looking at a problem from a different angle can present alternative solutions?

Well in this case, after wrestling with angles and curves due to having to widen a Roadster Windshield Frame, I had a moment of inspiration. Why not use the original Sedan frame? It's already squared up, the right width, and I can easily get glass and a cowl rubber seal for it.

So I went out to the pile of A parts and brought the original frame in. After removing the original plate glass (scary to hold in my bare hands), I mocked it up.



Damn, the lower arch matches the cowl like it's supposed to (duh), and the overall height is roughly that of these 4" chopped windshield posts. (Side bar: I'm telling you, the 1928 Sedan windshield is at least 3" shorter than that of a roadster)

This of course opens up the question of whether or not I do an upper rail across the glass or go with an open top windshield. After some searching online, I discovered that this look is not uncommon in the early 50's. I came across the Tommy Foster 1932 Roadster first built in 1950 and seen here in ~1954:


Now restored:


I love it, it's something different yet totally correct for my period of build.

So after media-blasting and some mild modifications:


I just need to weld some pivot points to the original frames for the posts to bolt to, and then the windshield is "done". 100% square and straight and ready to install either laminated safety glass or plexi-glass, I'll have to consult some Texas regulations on that topic.

I understand this isn't strictly correct for a "phaeton", but I was banging my head on a brick wall trying to get that roadster windshield frame to fit and be square. This solved that problem in just an hour.

~Peter

 

Made quick work of the windshield frame mounting. Welded Grade 8 3/8-24 Bolts to the frame and re-used the roadster-style wingnuts.


I then decided to round off and enclose the upper A pillar posts:

Work will continue later on the final height of the frame once I get seating position finalized.

Then got the Driveshaftshop.com aluminium driveshaft installed. This was custom built to adapt from the S10 T5 to the 1957 Chevrolet Rear axle.


And now onto the driver's rear quarter panel.


Got the pie cuts in so it follows the body curves, and tack welded the seams. I'll fully weld carefully tomorrow with it clamped firmly to my table to prevent it twisting or compressing. Then it's back to bead-rolling a new body-line to match the passenger side:

 

I like the direction change with the windshield. Never seen that before but it looks great on the Tommy Foster car. Elegant easy solutions are the best

 

Love your take on solving the windshield problem. It's one of the nicest onesie seen . frank

 

I'm still alive, just working in spurts. Shop gets to 90+ degrees this time of year, so it's hard to work the long hours.

Got the car outside for some sanding and finishing of the driver's quarter. Loving the progress, though the odds of taking this one to Gathering at the ROC are slipping. I need to chat with them about bringing an alternative car...



So anyways. should get most bodywork done in the coming weeks, then back onto interior/floors. Shocking how much there is to do when it already looks so good!

~Peter

 

Looks great

 

I’d be happy to see it even if ya had to trailer it in. Very cool project

 

My goal is to drive on the garage tour, so whatever I bring has to be roadworthy. Backup rig is the 54 Olds coupe, it's a old California Mild Custom that's been in the family for 15+yrs.

 

yers Looks fantastic !!!

here's mine, built in 1979

Grille is actually lower than cowl........doesn't appear that way tho, in picture..

 

Great build; keep the updates coming.

 

As a teaser, here's the 54 Olds. I'll probably start a new thread for it, since it's slated for an interior and engine-bay refresh down the road.

 

The olds looks sweeeeet!

 

Finally got caught up on other projects enough to put in a full day on the Model A.



Task of the day was dropping the latch on the driver's door to match the passenger side, and get the upper rail fabricated.



Then I applied a base coat of epoxy primer over all the metalwork. This will be the foundation for the filler to come. Not going to go crazy on bodywork, but trying to hide the major changes and make it look like a car built in the 1950's and preserved to this date.


Plan for tomorrow is some filler over the worst areas, and then some initial sanding to get things on the road, and then it'll be floor fabrication this week.

 

Oh, and the added benefit of dropping the door sill is this:


vs


So there's gonna be a narrow padded armrest recessed in the pocket just to give a little more comfort and flexibility for longer drives. Goal is to drive this car cross country whenever I can vs trailering.

 

Squeezed some time on the Model A today. Got the Toe-Boards fabricated and welded in.


They're formed from 3/16" thick material to add additional strength to the lower cowl/floor since this is now a roadster and there is significantly more body flex. I'm going to add a roll bar behind the dash and above the gauges to add more strength as well.

Then I got a little concerned about room for feet to comfortable operate the pedals, so 20 minutes later I had the pedal assembly and column mounted back in:


Gas Pedal is still in early mock-up status since that can literally be mounted anywhere on the firewall due to the throttle cable instead of a physical rod/linkage.

I wear a size 7US shoe, so that gives you an idea of scale:


So with some creative mounts and clearances of the transmission tunnel it looks like I can make this work...


I'm going to be swapping out those brake/clutch levers for OG Ford pedal arms once we get final pedal location set:


I'm mocking up with a stripped down 1928 Tudor Bucket Seat with a couple inches of padding:


And without planning it, the seat back is gonna wind up just a hair higher than the new beltline, not bad:




Column support is ready to be drilled and bolted in, and then I can do away with the temporary Heim Joint:


I'm really at a point where I need to analyze space since I want a car that's comfortable for more than just me driving, and I want the operational ergonomics to be straightforward and safe.

Obviously the easiest way to gain room is to delete a pedal... Which isn't out of the question, though then I have this custom T5-56 Chevy Driveshaft to contend with....

I've played with the idea of a 1956 Chevy 265/PG which would go nicely with my rear end choice and still perfectly fit the circa-1956 build, just means that I would have to sell my 1938 Flathead to recoup some costs.


Anyways, lots to consider over the Christmas Break, I'll see y'all back here in the new year!

 

Watching your thread with great interest. I wear a size 10 however,....my A is a 31
That said,....I still stress about foot space and I'm planning suspended pedals. Noting your brake and clutch master cylinders, is your plan as shown?? i.e. clutch M/C direct and brake M/C at 90 degrees?? I'd like to do something that does not have the M/Cs on the firewall but worry about the difficulty of filling those reservoirs. Surely you have thought about that and I appreciate your thoughts,....Tx

 

Also my Tudor, as purchased, has a pretty rough chop. So the idea of a tub is in my back pocket.

 

Clearance from the cylinders to the top of the dash isn't too bad, but luckily I can remove the whole cowl as shown in about 2 minutes. It's just 10 bolts and then two guys can slide it forward and off the car for access to master cylinders and wiring.

There's also the GM truck dual master cylinder popular on early 60's drag cars, where they both share a single master cylinder:

Were it not for my desire to keep everything hidden, I probably would've gone that way.

Having the master-cylinders underneath is fine on a 32 or later car with thick frame or full fenders, but on a Model A it takes up all the space underneath and you end up having to run exhaust out the side or hang under the chassis out the rear.

Also mine is channeled a little, which only tightens the front floorboard area.

 

I think the room you’d lose making it a two pedal car would be worse than trying to make three pedals work in a small car. I say keep it manual you’ll figure it out

 

That GM dual M/C is also on my radar. I like the look of the cast iron reservoir however,...I believe the bores are 1" (or there abouts) I have already committed to a hydraulic TO bearing which requires a 3/4" bore. I figure I could find someone to sleeve the bores down to 3/4". Just haven't looked into that yet
Here's mine so far.

 

Have no fear, the manual trans stays!


Started out with a little CAD design to get the shape right


And then in metal and welded in place.

Then it was time to build the "box" for the gas pedal clearance:


Don't judge the welds too harshly, haven't welded sheet metal in awhile and I was/am still rusty.


Plenty of room between the pedals in my opinion, I still need to build a throttle pedal mount, it's just clamped in place at the moment.



Starting to take shape, loads more to do.

Oh, and for removal the engine/trans, I would remove the shifter housing from the top side, and then there's plenty of clearance to remove the whole drivetrain out the front of the car after removing the radiator.


Going to build a short "tower" around the shifter to mimic a top-loading Ford 3speed transmission and do a swan neck shifter.

 

Cool build! Gonna keep watching your progress.

 

Nice work! I will be closely following your progress. I have a 28 sedan hanging on the wall in the shop, having the same vision for it as your build.

 

Moving on, decided it was time for seats finally. Removed the piece of wood I was using as a temporary backrest, and fashioned a new back out of steel.


This will be concealed by the seat covering once done, since it will slip over the entire seat back and then get stapled into the factory tack strip at the horizontal brace.

Then some quick estimations of foam thickness and density:

And we have a temporary seat! Actually pretty comfy, though I will entrust my upholstery guy with the final product, this will at least let me establish the driving position and allow for seat mounting.



Still retaining the factory foldability, just without all those original springs and horsehair...


So, next to build a structural crossmember that the front seat points will mount to.

Obviously I want to re-use the original mounts:


Heated them to make them shorter and with more of a fore-aft sweep. I'll get these mocked in over the next few days, and hopefully have a fully folding and flipping Tudor seat again!

 

Very nice.

 

Looks great man