Awesome! I'd love to have a find like this, and like you I would just go over it all, fix what needs be, and drive it stock for a while. Great pix. Will be watching.
Your car might be a 29 but your radiator is a early AR radiator from a '28,the AR's were built in late '27. HRP
Do yourself a favor and tighten up the brake rods, replace bushings in the brake and clutch pedals and make sure the brake shoes have plenty of meat on them or replace them. Stopping is always a priority over going. My first drive home in my 29 coupe, I lost three clevis pins and had only the right rear brake working. Scary!
And I need y'all's opinion on what I should do about the radiator.. I might just have mine re cored even if it's $4-500 bucks. If I find one at a swap meet I might still take a chance at it being bad, and I'm probably going to spend $200-$300 on one at a swap meet right? And the aftermarket ones are $600-$800 anyways. Bottom line is I want to use my original radiator so I guess I'll the put the money into it?
Started on the front brakes today and cannot get the kingpins out. So I think I'm going to have to pull the axle out from under the car and press them out. So I'll just redo all the bearings and bushings in the tire rods and moving joints while I have it off.
Oil pump is back together and oil pan is on so now I just need to get a battery and put the dash back together and possibly try to fire it up this weekend!
Just get the pain of removing the tank over and done with. I stuffed around with "dirty leg", filters, emptying out in the car and still ended up pulling it out anyway. It's a real pain going for a drive and having to stop every 20 miles and clean all your contraptions out. The inline filters just don't let the fuel through with not a real lot of***** in them, probably because of gravity feed.Dirty leg and sediment bowl gets the big stuff but the fine***** gets to the inline filter. Nice car by the way.
If you take the tank out, it would be awesome if you took some pictures of the process. I'm about to pull mine out and would love to see how it's done. I have searched for pics but haven't had any luck. Kevin
Look in the Model A mechanic's handbook. No pictures as I recall but great step-by-step instructions. It's not that tough. I agree with Manager, just get it fixed and you will be glad for it.
If i do take out the fuel tank i will post some pics for sure! I have most of the bolts out already and was starting on removing the clamps but then a.d.d. kicked in and i started on the brakes...
Decided on running Amsoil 20w-50 synthetic high zinc for engine oil. Anybody ever used this in they're '28-'31 before?
I got mine turning over yesterday!! I didn't have spark but I didn't have time to mess with it any more.
The starter motor spun at first but the Bendix didn't hit the flywheel. Then my brother tapped on it lightly and then nothing. So I took the starter off and cleaned out the push switch, wire wheeled all the copper contacts and sprayed down the Bendix then re installed the starter and it worked flawlessly!!
What an awesome car. Unbelievably solid for being from MI. Must have been well cared for all its life. Good luck with it!
O.K. here goes. I am not a tank removal expert but it isn't rocket science. First I disconnected battery, drained tank, removed fuel line ect from under tank,took seat base,side trim panels and floorboard out. Removed the dash rail and the column clamp. Remove the instument panel and disconnect the wires and speedo cable. Moving out undo the rear hood hinge bracket and with someone on the other side lift the rear of the hood slide out of the front hinge and remove. Remove the stay rods. Slide the outer tube up the GAV rod and slide the shaft apart and remove the rod from inside. Remove the cover off the terminal box and slide the wiring and speedo cable out of the tank tunnel. Unbolt the coil, I just layed it on the head. My cowl hood lacing is well and truly glued on so I crefully cut it at the cowl/tank line. Now undo all the bolts, follow your way around the whole tank about every 6 " there is one. Then slowly lift the tank from the front trying not to damage any lacing. I lifted mine 2" or so and sat a block under it and with a small steel rule (whatever is handy) freed the lacing. Then lifted it till the wiring tunel cleared the cowl and out she is.
Don't know if anyone is watching but following tank removeal I removed the gas gauge. I waterblasted the inside as best I could using a straight and an angle shaft and pointing it around the baffles as best you can guess to get as much***** out as possible. I got a lot of***** including some big lumps. I made a bung for the gas gauge hole and put a bung in the fuel outlet, then filled it with a about 10 to 1 mollasis and water mix. A gallon of mollasis and fill it up. Get the filler in a position that you can get maximum contact with the top of the tank. These are a bit hard to see but before And 5 days after(not the same tank but it was the same before) Make sure the tank can still vent, this is what happened when I didn't. After draining the mix I gave it a good waterblast and then about half a gallon of petrol and shook it all around (did that twice) and then some metho and shook again. Will give the yellow tank 7 days this time Want to know more don't be afraid to ask, but I'm no tank expert and this is just a trial and error method I decieded on after reading numerous things here and on the Barn. FAQ's Why mollasis? There is varing opinions that though evaporust probably is a lot stronger it may be too harsh .Also it doesn't seem to hurt the paint if you are doing as i am with the yellow tank.
I've cleaned out a tank (deuce) and sealed it with the POR15 kit. Been good over 16 years. I mention this because after cleaning these out with acid based processes, you don't want them to grow more rust over time.
Looks good!! Have lots of fun with it. Does the Radiator leak? if not give it a try and you may not have to replace the core. Look for a radiator shop and have it boiled out and see how it goes. The radiator in my coupe sat for years and I didn't have any issues with it when I got the engine running last summer. my radiator also sat with antifreeze in it so that may have has something to do with it.
I'm not expert but I am a member of the local model A club here is Las VEgas and I was told to only use straight 30 weight non-detergent oil due to the basically splash type oiling system and a little oil pressure from the oil pump. Have used it for years in my old A and it has worked well. Funny how hard it is to find non-detergent oil these days.yruhot
I love my A but hate the stock brakes. After several years of bad experiences I bit the bullet and converted to juice brakes. Not a cheap conversion but after sailing through a red light it was time. Hell even Henry Ford decided by 1937 I think it was that they were a better idea. I know the purist cringe at the idea and if they are happy at putting their family and others at risk press on. For me I like the feel of a nice firm brake pedal.
This is a really good article from the Model A Ford Club of America. Read the whole thing through and this is where i came to my decision about the oil i used. I did end up using 10w-40 instead of 20w-50 which i forgot to mention. Sorry. http://rmaford.org/wp-content/blogs...SE_by_Russert_and_Wiedeman_Rev_C_Mar_2012.pdf
The Amsoil 10w-40 High Zinc Full Synthetic I used is better in my opinion because the multi viscocity changes with the temp and the Detergents help with sludge removal (which a lot of the old school guys are going to say that will clog oil passeges but someone on here tell me they've had that happen?!) and the Full Synthetic oil has a much higher flashpoint and is good for cylinder wall protection against scoring. And finally the high Zinc content helps with camshaft lubrication and protection. So say what you will...and you will. But i will let y'all know if my decision causes a problem. And sorry i haven't posted much lately, been busy with work and haven't had any free time to go work on the car. We're going to the Carlise show in Lakeland, FL this weekend to look for some parts and hopefully see Burt Reynolds because he'll be there both days! LoL
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