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Projects 1928 model A frame- now what

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by daylatedollarshort, Jun 16, 2023.

  1. Sorry the shots aren’t great. 666D269C-FCD3-48D7-98CC-35282CC722AF.jpeg
     
  2. Drag cars, one off speedster builds, trailer queens and doodle bugs don’t typically get registered. The registration process isn’t easy, but my neighbour works at the registry office and I have a lawyer in the family for the legal stuff. I got an ownership with the rpu, but not this extra frame.
     
    Budget36 likes this.
  3. I heard that crowd is even tougher than this one…
     
    Boggus Deal and LCGarage like this.
  4. Thank you.
     
  5. The part of the cross member in question is the engine side.;)
     
    -Brent- likes this.
  6. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,028

    Budget36
    Member

    I just meant for ID/value.
     
    daylatedollarshort likes this.
  7. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 6,291

    Fordors
    Member

    IMG_8930.jpeg

    Here are typical Model A spindles like it appears are on your spare chassis. You can see the straight sides here.
    IMG_8929.jpeg

    Yours look as though the sides are straight.

    IMG_8931.jpeg

    Early Model A round back spindle, some say the early parts are on an AR but I don’t know if that was ever a Ford designation. This one has had the eye for the bolt on steering arm cut off and roughly ground. The early A round back was the only ‘28-‘48 spindle to be center drilled from the factory AFAIK.
     
    Okie Pete and Budget36 like this.
  8. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 5,324

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not necessarily. There are a lot of informed people who are on both the Ford Barn and the HAMB and I've found most of them will respond willingly to well put questions.
     
    Budget36 and daylatedollarshort like this.
  9. I keep on learning.
     
  10. Ned Ludd
    Joined: May 15, 2009
    Posts: 5,446

    Ned Ludd
    Member

    The OP's location means there is a better chance of it being a Canadian frame than might otherwise be the case. In that case, probably no frame number.

    The As assembled here in South Africa were built on Canadian frames, and the absence of a chassis number causes endless problems for registering restorations based on bare frames. Even if I could get it here cheaply, if that is a Canadian frame it's no more than so much steel channel stock to me! If it's a US frame with a legible number on it, on the other hand ...
     
    Nailhead A-V8, ClarkH and X38 like this.
  11. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 778

    railcarmover

    Don’t say AR to the purists say E 28 or VE 28. Early or Very Early 28… 4 digit serial number is golden, I had some VE stuff, a smooth sided oil pan with a screw in dipper tray..contacted the VE boys, the cheap pricks wanted me to donate it. Model A restorer folks roll that way, exclusive and tighter than a frogs ass.
     
  12. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 778

    railcarmover

    I love how folks twist themselves into knots about paperwork..just go to DMV, be honest and polite, do as they say and be done with it. No VIN? They will assign one in most cases. Most DMV’s can’t process early ford numbers, they prefer assigning a 13 digit modern number.
     
    Okie Pete likes this.
  13. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,475

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Can we stop with the "AR" nonsense? Show me anywhere in the Ford Archives, M.A.R.C, M.A.F.C.A. or anywhere else that early Model A's were designated "AR".
     
  14. Advertise said parts being for sale and see if you get interested buyers. If yes, then sell. If no, then the parts weren't that desirable; you tried; move on.
     
    daylatedollarshort likes this.
  15. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,475

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    The front break shaft assembly is either the November 1928 thru mid 1929 or the mid 1929 thru December 1929 type. The only difference is that the later style used a lock washer and the early style used a cotter pin. I can't see the end because it's covered with grease crud. I would guess that the chassis is probably an early to mid '29 chassis.
     
    Okie Pete likes this.
  16. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,545

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Earlier, I put the term "AR gold" in quotes because I recognize it is a misnomer. But for good or bad it is the commonly used/recognized term; good luck with trying to get casual hot rudders to use E 28 or whatever.

    I'll come back to the point @alchemy made earlier: Model A restorers are becoming increasingly rare. Kind of like original T guys. That means a dwindling market for the "rare" early A parts. I have a pickup cab with firewall stamp dating it to Feb '28. That's early. But I don't think that makes it any more valuable than any comparable condition cab, '28-'29.

    I think the OP should free himself from the concern that he is leaving money on the table or destroying some great artifacts, and simply put the parts he has acquired to good use.
     
  17. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,475

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Clark, sadly you are correct. My first year at HERSHEY was 1968 and I still have the program. It lists over 225 Model A Ford's on the show field. Last year there were about 10 Model A's on the show field. Real nice Model A's sell nowadays for $8 to $10K. One fairly nice sedan has been for sale in my area for $7,500 and hasn't sold in over a year.
     
  18. Thanks for all the replies. My impression that these were useful, but not sacred seems to be true. For now it is easy to take measurements and mock stuff up, thanks all for your efforts.
     
    LCGarage, ClarkH and Budget36 like this.
  19. How about we build one of these? - only model A based. It could fit on a single axle trailer and be a trailer queen for dirt and ice racing, those guys always look like they are having fun. FD6A64B1-0E1C-495E-8665-043539BE8C2E.jpeg
     
    chiro, Okie Pete, LCGarage and 3 others like this.
  20. wuga
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 695

    wuga
    Member

    I live on the north side of Lake Ontario and my Canadian 31RPU has no frame number. My registration is the engine number. You don't have a body so no body number. In Ontario you can get an ownership (title) before the project starts. If you wait until it is complete to register, you will pay 13% tax on the completed value. Swear an avadavats, get an appraisal on what you have, value should be at about $150, do not register it as a truck, go to Service Ontario and get a registration using the engine number off the drivers side of the engine. They will do a search to verify the number and you will have a registration in your name. That is gold for any project you want to do in the future or if you decide to sell it. The registration is worth $800 in a sale, regardless the condition of the car. It just might take a few trips to Service Ontario. Go in, speak nicely, ask for their advice, they love to give it and preferably do this at a small town outlet.
    Warren
     
    Nailhead A-V8 likes this.
  21. Yup- wuga- that has been my experience as well. Our neighbours daughter works at service Ontario, that should help.
     
  22. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,401

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I know a few too many people who think that their fairly nice stock Model A's should be worth $20-25k.
     
  23. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 7,655

    RodStRace
    Member

    https://www.mafca.com/cl/cl-v-sale.html
    one at 5K, one at 7500, the rest in 5 digit pricing.
    Here there is
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1929-model-a-coast-to-coast-ready.1296287/
    and a couple that are not running, need work at 7500, and this which is more like OP's
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hot-rod-project-with-many-extra-parts-1929-ford.1278336/
    Local (AZ) CL listings are at or more than the model A club pricing.
    They are all much higher when rodded out nicely.

    I'd like to get into a driver that wasn't 'restored' back when bondo sculpting the bottom 6 inches was common. The tudor with "Body is quite straight and solid. Runs, Drives, Stops. New wiring, roof, floorboards, all windows function." sounds like a nice car, but would need a chassis inspection. I'd also like to get my current overflow sold, a project done and have space for it. Sigh.
     
  24. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 391

    dmar836
    Member

    Agree. I have locals like that in almost my all hobbies. Their cars, parts, etc. are still sitting FS.
    Before we criticize outwardly, look at the FS ads here. Some fixed prices for literally years of bumps without lowing one bit. People can do and ask what they want but it sure clouds up the rest of the free market trying to evaluate prices on objects that actually sell for what things are actually moving for.
    D
     
    4274SPEED likes this.
  25. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,197

    Outback
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NE Vic

    I expect we will need to see front engine mount @ front crossmember
     
  26. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 1,412

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    CDN cars don't have serial #s stamped on the frames ...hence the reg went with...wait what? You have the engine w the serial #...I guess your buddy is hoping you don't try to register it (cuz you can) and that no one asks him to verify the reg on his truck
     
  27. LCGarage
    Joined: Aug 28, 2022
    Posts: 176

    LCGarage

    FWIW, an old buddy who has bought and sold many rods and bikes over the years once told me "it's not what they're asking, it's what they're paying"
     

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