Projects 1928 rpu

That cross bar up top is riveted to the A pillars. The welting between it and the top of the gas tank is available from all of the repro parts suppliers. Unbolt the tank at the front flange where it bolts to lower firewall, take clamps off under tank on both sides, unbolt the column clamp and anything else that is attached to tank or upper firewall. Then you can wrestle the tank out. If you are doing it just to replace the welt, maybe don't pull the tank out the whole way, just tip it back enough to replace the welting.

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Thanks Carter, this project keeps getting bigger and bigger. I was planning to go after the fenders, front end to have something for the summer. Paint is so bad thinking may take the wire brush to the whole thing and do a home made paint job..

 

Need some help on getting off the running board without damage, I believe everything is off and it should pop

 

The bolts may be frozen between the board and bracket due to rust or road gunk. The boards also fit into a channel on the edge of the splash aprons - could be frozen there, too. You can hold the top to keep it from flying up and then bump them with your palm to free them.

Have you tried just removing the brackets from the frame and taking out the boards with the brackets attached?

 

brackets underneath seemed riveted. Would have to drill them out

 

If you are removing the boards - you will be removing the brackets anyway.

 

If she was in the air no problem lol

 

Update

Fenders are off, running boards need to be saved for another. Just can seem to budge them.

Next I'm going to rent a power sprayer and get as much crap off as possible. Then take off the wheels see how the breaks look, thinking about using a flathead ted brake kit.

Once I get all the crap and nails? Off the front end sending the axel to Joes speed shop for a 3 inch lower.

Anyone know if I can slip the cab up to remove the skirt?

 

You need to lift the cab to get the running boards off. You will also need a puller for the rear drums to comme off.

 

Anyone have best practice.e for taking off running board supports? I removed the nuts underneath but she won't budge. The supports are riveted to the frame and I do not want to destroy the support or the frame.

 

First take off the running boards-use rubber mallet and hit along seam by splash apron then near braces (underneath towards top). May take some firm taps as boards look to be rusted to brace/splash apron.

Undo body bolts and lift cab/bed a inch or so to slide running boards out.

After that drill out rivets for running board supports.

Earl

 

Thanks Earl will let you know how it goes,

 

After lifting cab/bed slide the--"splash aprons" out (not running board-my bad). The running board should lift up off supports. Splash apron slides out from under body/cab.

Sorry for not keeping the two names clear.

Earl

 

Try using a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 and a floor jack to apply light pressure on the board close to the bracket, then tap on the side of the bracket where the bolt goes through with a hammer. Just an idea, may not work at all.

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I'd try heating up where the support meets the running board with a torch, and then giving the bolts and boards a little whack with a mallet. Looks like they haven't been apart in a long time, and could be glued together with rust.

 

So The plan was to run the original drive train this summer, spend what I have on the body, front end etc. but now thinking I should change out the tranny and get something with a OD. Suggestions what's best for stock 4 banger, keeping in mind a flathead is in her future.

 

T-5

 

Thanks broken spoke

 

So tomorrow is another day, hate to say it but feeling more than somewhat overwhelmed with the project.

Still a newbie and the more I tear into her the more I want to do, but due to inexperience unsure how or if I should because I do want to have her in working order for June.

So far the fenders are off, there is allot of caked on dirt and grease (seems someone was grease gun happy) that I plan to power wash off tomorrow

Then I have to get the front axle off, spindles, perches, steering arms and send them to OK for Joe to work his magic (can’t say enough about Joes speed shop and how helpful he has been even with 16 emails that could have all been communicated in one lol

 

I won’t be doing much to the drive train right now..even though I would like to pull the engine to at least clean her up.

I am going to get a new distributor so I don’t have to worry about spark advance etc.

I would like to keep her higher so was thinking a 3 inch drop with reverse eye in the front and leave the back stock, I picked up 16x 4.5 for the front and 16x7 in the back.

The body and frame are excellent but allot of surface rust. I bought a fine wire brush for my drill but it has little to know effect. I am pretty sure this is because my drill is not throwing the rpms needed so I will have to invest in something stronger.

This is a first time as well and worry about warping. I should probably get a course wire brush as the paint on her looks to be brushed on and is very thick.

So that’s the plan so far I have Sundays to work on her so will try to keep the updates coming.

A very heartfelt thanks to the many that have sent their support and experience, its appreciated.

 

Check out GMC bubba for any dist. questions..he is the best

 

Already have messaged just need to place order!

 

I'm building a 28 RPU too. Here's how mine started out. Just a rusty frame I bought in Michigan, body parts from Ohio and other parts from friends, ebay and Model A vendors. Originally it was a closed cab. I cut the top added 18 inches to the body so I could fit my "petite" butt behind the wheel! I'm keeping the stock motor but up grading to a down draft carb and High compression head with FS dizzy. This is my first time too and it's slow going but I'm having fun with it. Good Luck with your build!

 

First time and your doing body mods and piecing it together...makes me feel like I should stop complaing lol. Good luck as well

 

I too had to stretch the body of my first build 29 RPU. 8" on mine stretched behind the door jamb. They are fun though. Just tight.

 

Im 6"5 250 ibs and yes its a bit of a comedy show watching me get in but i downsized the springs and cushion on the back of the seat so I can sit further back and once in im good.

 

6'2" and 300 here. Obviously we couldn't ride together!

 

We could but I am sure there would be allot of touching that we wouldn't be comfortable with. Lol

 

only the roadster car was built with a collapasable roof? so what was the point of the open cab truck? and it looks secure right to the wood along the back of the top of the cab?..square bolts are also giving me the shits lol

 

Look at a 27 tee hood bows also decide which way you want to go in the end bangers are addictive I have had more fun from my banger than any other car do a search for F.A.S.T. (Ford A Speed Technology ) they are a fun bunch and will give good advice. Warning Bangers can get expensive but oh the fun.