Ben, talk to Ronnie "Wheeldog57", he just set up his pedal assy. in an A frame, and says it worked out fine.
I am in the midst of talking with him. Hopefully he can shed some light on what I need to do. Should have prodded him more when I was over checking his stuff out!
Really good to hear about the E brake, and the engine info too. You know you have totally ruined yourself! You will spend the rest of your life as a garage rat, bent over some nasty old car, and you will have the best guys on earth for friends helping you stay greasy.
I am not sure without reading everything but it sounds like you are concerned with a Model A engine that only has 5 psi oil pressure. Five PSI is about the normal oil pressure for an original Model A. You should look into some of the master cylinder mounts that incorporate a redesigned battery box. For an illustration of what I am talking about go to http://www.modelaonly.net/products.html and check out the master cylinder mount. I am not familiar with this supplier and cannot comment on them, check out wherever you intend to purchase in the archives before you send money. This same type of mount is available from several suppliers and I have seen posts that some of the boxes are too weak and flex. It would be good to post this question on fordbarn.com. Charlie Stephens
Good to know, but the 5psi was just a motor on the guys car which I bought my block from. I was think that I got a solid block that is build able. Also, the only reason I am not going A motor is because mine had bad babbitts and needed a complete overhaul after catastrophic failure by previous owner. The real issue is mounting the pedal shaft; a master cylinder mount isn't the tough part...
Here is my master cylinder I think? Anyone know anything more than I do? http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-m73323 Also, I guess I will have to fab a brake shaft in order to save my A brakes-- going to have to figure something out.
Alright. Kinda one sided conversation once again, but here is my brake setup. All will be linked to Amazon urls just in case someone down the road has the same questions as me. I bought a brake pedal and shaft rebuild kit already for 12 bucks at PV Ford. Great deal, came with everything. Master cylinder: You want a dual drum, dual reservoir master- here is a good and cheap one from a 65-66 ford, should work. Dorman M73323 New Brake Master Cylinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYTNE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_jZiwwbW4AE4B7 Now what are you going to use for lines? Stainless requires special tools and is über expensive. Let's go with nickel copper lines- and let's buy 25 feet of 3/16. We are not going to use 1/4 line at all, contrary to what tardel would like. AAS Copper Nickel CN-316 3/16" x 25' Brake Line with 20 Inverted Flare Fittings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVF10UW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_30iwwbRF9YXSN So now you have the line, but how are you going to keep it from hanging around and falling? You are going to need some adel clamps- or the equivalent. Here is what I found, and I think buying two packs should cover the job. Allstar Performance ALL18300 3/16" Rubber Cushioned Aluminum Line Clamp, (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZQ7EE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_v2iwwbGYE0N7W But how are you going to run the line through clamps that are not attached to anything? You need bolts, and of course, threads! So here is what I am going to try. They are called rivnuts. You drill a tight hole, push them in, thread a grade 8 bolt through with a nut between the rivnut and the bolt head. Turn the nut lefty loosey, and the rivnut will expand. You then have your mounting point. I plan to run these on the insides of the rear wishbones. Buy a lot for good measure- they're cheap. 100Pcs Zinc Plated Carbon Steel Rivet Nut Rivnut Insert Nutsert 1/4-20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X74FNVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_j6iwwbVEN38XK Don't forget some 1/4 20 bolts; but you can source those yourself! Now you are going to most likely need two tees. One up front on the left up near the cross, and one for the back, near the mid cross. You are going to need adel clamps near these as these are unable to mount by themselves- lame, I know. Allstar Performance ALL50137 3/16" Inverted Flare Tee with 1/8" NPT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003C01DHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_E8iwwb4WDHWT3 So, now that you have most everything, you have to remember that the rear master cylinder has a special one off female thread from the double flare on the brake line. No fear, speedway is here- but insanely expensive! You need one for each rear master I believe, so don't lose one! I am not a hundred percent sure, but the description of your new master cylinder says you need one. Pipe up if I am lying! http://www.speedwaymotors.com/IFM-to-IFF-Adapters,6458.html And now your last stop is for flex lines. You need one for each front, and you decide what to do for the rear. You could do some relief loops between the master and your rear tee and call it good, or could use a flex line. Your call, but idk which one to buy- my craigslist buy came with some. Now here is where I open it up to you. Did I do anything wrong here? How about a proportioning valve? Automatically adjusting? Manual? What flex line do you suggest? Thanks.
Good thought! Never heard of one before, so just did some research and I guess I should! Ten pounds for drums, two for discs; so that means that I will need two ten pounds, as you said. I guess wilwood will provide these. Thoughts on proportioning valve or master choice?
All I can say is that I did not use a proportioning valve on mine. Also some master cylinders have the threaded holes on the right side and some have them on the left side. I tried to plan mine so the lines were the most direct. I just can't remember the kind of master I used, :^( . Look close and you can see the purple residual valves.
Nice Ben, thanx for asking all the questions we both need the answers to! Hahaha. You out in the 'shed' today?
Ben, did you look at the Speedway line kits? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Shop/Brake-Hydraulics-Brake-Hydraulic-Line-Kits/12.html http://www.speedwaymotors.com/US-Brake-Steel-Brake-Line-Kit,26346.html Good to check against your parts list at any rate.
I didn't, but I wanted the copper nickel lines. Waiting for all that stuff to arrive now. I think the holiday business is slowing the shipping... Anywho, here is a bunch of stuff I have been up to. I let wheeldog come and see my shop out of the kindness of my heart, and he goes and shows me two cracks in my block! Luckily, they are not bad, as they are just water jacket to stud. Both on passenger side, between cylinders. However, the block will be hot tanked and washed after I mock everything finally. Failed on first attempt for a trans mount, but nailed the mounting at least for the cross brace. Take a look! It was made using 1.5 inch 1/8 thick square box. If you want to do this too, you have to grind back the cross bar so that more slides into your 3/4 inch hole in the mount. About a quarter inch on each side, and chop the cross shaft ends down a little too. 5/16 inch holes and hardened bolts for mounting. Upon final assembly, I am going to slide the fiber body tape in the middle of it and the frame for isolation. I have also hit a snag on my front spindle adaption to juice brakes. The concentric ring pushes the new bolt pattern into the spindle hole of the backing plate. This made the concentric ring block the new bolts from feeding through. I then snapped the ring into four pieces so I could shim the whole setup correctly. I know it isn't correct, but there is no way around it. Assembly was literal hell- filling, fitting, filing, fitting, etc for about 5 hours... I have also been making modifications for A pedals, which wheeldog is helping me with.
Halfway there; but here is where you come in. My Pistons say 8ba. Are these Pistons able to run on my 46 59ab without modification? What tolerance am I looking for between wall and piston? They seem to have little real wear, but a lot of sludge.
Looks like your block may have been bored .060 over and you've already got oversize pistons if that sheet is showing their measurements and not your cylinders' ID. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specifications.htm Do they look like these Speedway units? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1939-...-Ring-Pistons-3-3-4-Stroke-060-Over,1855.html Funny thing here, On this item's page, is the exact question you are asking as well as the ANSWER: The proper skirt clearance is .0025" to .003" for these flathead pistons. These pistons are .060" oversized of the original 3.188" bore. More info here: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/398.cfm Fitting Pistons with Scale: Removed from Above Shim thickness to use: .003 Pounds Pull on Scale: 6 to 10 Rings: (for tapered bores for minimum clearance fit rings in tightest portion of ring travel) Ring Gap, Minimum: Compression: .007 Ring Gap, Minimum: Oil: .007 Clearance in Groove: Compression: Top ring: .0015-.003; lower rings: .001-.0025 Clearance in Groove: Oil: .001-.003 Wristpin Diameter, Inch: .7501-.7504
Thanx again Ben, you always ask the right questions. Thanx Pat because you know how to navigate and retrieve info from the interwebs
Cool stuff that you boys are working through the questions together. If you combine all the skills available, you're going to putting some nice iron back on the road soon! Happy Holidays from "Roll-a-Bone" Hot Rods!
You mentioned seats to me in a PM the other day and that got me thinking about it. Have you seen @rottenleonard 's seats? HERE: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/bomber-style-seats-by-rotten-leonards-jalopy-shop.922802/ If your budget is too dry to afford something like those all done up or even just the frames, I'm sure we could make something similar, if less ornate, on my bending brake, to give you something to put your ass in and on the road. A sheet or so of 18ga, some 3/4 ply, some foam, and a couple yards of cheap vinyl/fabric will do you.
The road goes on forever and the party never ends... Take a look. Idk what is wrong. I got an A axle, and the spring is 1001, as suggested by posie himself.
Your perches look like the problem. Those adjustable perches are bias further over even fully tightened down than the fixed perches. But really, I think you just have them on backwards...
Hey, at least you made a CHEAP mistake! You don't even need to take the shackles off or pull the pins to fix that one!
Easy fix, didn't grab a pic though. I threw it under the frame and was trying to mock everything up. The steering is now hitting the wishbones. I believe the two modifications would be to have a bent tie rod, or a notched wishbone. Since a bend in the tie rod would result in the alignment not being traditionally set (would have to disconnect one side and wind it, reconnect, etc.), I believe that I will have to notch the wishbone. After that is averted, the new perch is very close to the drag link. After notching the wishbones which will allow me to mount the tie rod, I will have to check for clearances. Opinions welcome.
Are you doing all this with the front end mounted so its got engine weight on it? It all changes under load- shackle should sit at approx. 45* You adjust toe in with your tie rod- put your wheels on, and make up a "story stick" with 2 pcs of small angle iron. Eyeball the wheels by adjusting the tie rod ends evenly until wheels look parallel, then use your nifty angle iron guage ( one piece inside the other with a small welding clamp to hold together) and set the FRONT distance between rim edge 3/16 to 1/4" LESS than the dimension on the REAR rim edge. Then you need to hook up your wishbones (clamped) and set your axle camber (5-7* kicked OUT at bottom). I've had to make a pie cut on the "bones to get this angle without having the rear plates end up too long. People have told me that's a no-no, but I've welded and plated them and never had a problem ( yet). Caster is pre-set in the axle king pin casting- just make sure everything is bushed tight and well greased ( sounds naughty, doesn't it?) Instead of notching the wishbones ( which doesn't sound like a good fix) , can you heat and bend the steering arms? (You've got to be careful so you don't mess up the front end geometry.) I believe this is all good info., but in my present mental state you might want a second opinion. Professor Flaven may want to comment??
You might take a look at these dropped tie rod ends as an option. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1948-64-Ford-Pickup-Tie-Rod-End-Drops,50152.html Bob
The idea makes perfect sense to me- but those in particular don't make much sense to me. Those have a "drop" which would just push the bone outwards, so that it would run more parallel with the frame. If I wanted drop, wouldn't I want a rod end with drop perpendicular to the joint, rather than in line?
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