Confusion? They're not to drop the REAR of the WISHBONES - they drop the tie rod so it CLEARS the wishbones ( hopefully). NO rod ends- tie rod ends. (We no likey rod ends. #10 dinkey dow) (Or am I confused?? I need to plug in the Lava Lamp for a while)
The problem is that the tie rod is too low, and it is sitting on top of the wishbone. So I actually need less drop. But now you have me asking myself how that drop bar would link into the tie rod and the current mount. Btw, terminology of all this stuff sucks.
You're all stock as far as axle, bones, and spindles still, right? There should be no interference if that is the case, at least with the connection between the spindles. Are your bones on there right or do you need to flip them?
Can you snap a pic of the axle/tie rod interference? If you have: 1) stock axle 2) stock spindles 3) stock wishbone Your tie rod should not interfere...
Just got back inside. I was trying to mock everything up before and decided that I should do mock up without the drag link, as the drag link was actually hitting the perch. This resulted in the tie rod not going in fully, which gave me thoughts of clearancing. However, the tie rod will actually clear the wishbone, HOWEVER, the drag link certainly interferes with the new perch. Take a look.
I'm not a fan of the Model A axle and steering components, especially with a heavier V8 but lots of dudes run them.
Searching for my old perches... They have to be somewhere. Meanwhile, trans cross fabrication, in photos. From a failed previous attempt...
Good thing you took geometry in school huh Ben? A couple different sets of eyes: me and Mike- will look over your set-up Saturday, hopefully we can come up with a solution. I.m pretty sure your'e not the first to run into this issue so. . . .I promise not to point out any cracks in anything else
And on the 26th of December, two wise guys (Mr. Bowling and Mr. Wheeldog) ventured out to the 'shop' bearing knowledge and gifts... Good talk today, answered some questions and troubleshot some issues. Here is what I got. And now onto steering. I got the mounting section of the steering box off so that I can play around with it; but look at the horn rod! (Using the frame rail as a straight edge) And here is what I am playing with. So, where should the new hole be? Right now, the issue is that the column will hit the heads (I believe), so, what is the general rule here?
Looks good, Kiddo! If you want to clean up those perch bolts and get even more room, the "eye" that the old mech. brake actuator bolted to can be cut off now that you've gone to "juice". Stick your exhaust manifold on with a couple of bolts so you'll have a better idea what you're dealing with as far as the steering box. That's a busy spot on an A-V8! I got a set of center dump headers for the coupe I built last year, and those worked out really well ( but I was using a different box too). I'm not sure how your motor is set up, but some of the stock cast manifolds exit from the front- if you need something for mock-up, I've got a collection of Flattie exhaust manifolds you can play around with. Good seeing you today- you're coming along!!
Isn't there something about a front dump rigth hand exhaust manifold from a 100hp truck, there fit on the left and becomes a rear dump that dumps behind the rear of the box? They ain't a top race manifold, but looks era perfect and pre headers.
Been thinking of a front lower shock mount, since I got the f1 upper, as sort of seen in the photo above. For solutions, I found this nifty sheet. I have seen the little adapters that attach onto the shackle, but I am unsure if they will provide enough shock length, so, what do you guys suggest for a minimum shock size? Another option is to weld a little bracket to hold the stud to the wishbone end. This would be just a little add on to the bottom ear of the wishbone. This would increase the shock length, but would be more work. Thoughts? And thanks volvobrynk, will have to figure that out, and that will dictate steering situation.
Pic # 1- shock mounts on bottom of perch bolts Pic # 2 - "friction" shocks ( sucked- use hydraulic if anything ; my opinion) Pic #3- perch bolt mounts again Pic #4- mounted to spring shackle- bored out the bushing and ran Gr.8 x 3/8" bolts ( not a great shot) Pic #5- front "bags"- not traditional, but fun to test drive
I think the mounts at the bottom of the perch are the best, but since I already bought the adjustables and kind of wasted some money, I want to save myself from spending more, so I want to use the factory ones. The problem with that is that the bolt on the factory perch is a perfect length; and has no room for a bottom mount to be placed on it (if that makes sense). So, as a way to fight this, I could weld a bracket to the bottom ear of the bone so that I get the same basic point across, but I end up not needing a longer threaded perch. It is either that, or I drill a hole in my axle to place a stud into. This is a little more secure, but is a little more radical, and I think the actual stud would need to be plug welded in, and I can't weld on cast. So, thoughts?
I was thinking of something similar. However, what did you end up doing? Did you drill a hole in the axle and then tap threads into it for the stud? If so, did you just apply thread lock to the threads? Thanks for the help! I went back to Vern tardel's book and he just welded a shock stud to the front axle where the perch goes through.
I've seen guys mount them to a stud or bolt going through the wishbone too I think. Check out Ray Prue's '27 roadster build for the ROG- I think he might have done that? ( onekoolkat1950 ) Don't worry, you'll figure it out!!
I just drilled a hole in the axle and that stud that I posted the picture of thru bolts with a nylon lock nut on the back side
Ah, I was thinking that the through bolt was going to come up short. But if it worked go you, I'll give it a try! I will have to get four of those studs; two for lower front, and two for upper rears. BTW, the gift that keeps on giving. Going back to my 20 dollar juice brake buy, in that purchase, I also got the 47/48 lower shock mounts! What a score, now that I know I need them! I am cutting the long one down, but talk about luck! Edit: also wanted to ask: trying to solve a steering issue, I need to take my steering column apart. I cannot get the press fit steering wheel off of the shaft. I have soaked it in Pb blaster, but no avail. I went to autozone, but those pullers are for the new style and will not do the job. My 3 prong gear puller will not work. I have tried pulling it off manually, and hitting the steering wheel with a mallet, but again, I did not succeed. Tips?
I made a puller to take mine off -- Basically a piece of 3/8" flatstock, 1 1/2" x 12" , with a 1/2 " hole in the middle; weld a nut for a 3/8" bolt to the flatstock -centered on the hole- , put it across 2 of the opposing steering wheel spokes with 2 "U" bolts, and run a bolt through the nut onto the steering shaft end. I covered the end with a random cut-off piece to protect the threads ( or you could start the original nut back on part way.) Shoot with penetrating oil, and snug the bolt up enough to put pressure on the wheel-SLOWLY and over time, keep snugging and spraying for a day or 2 and it should pop off. I thought about heat, but it's a tight spot, and I didn't want to screw up the wheel. Slow and Steady wins the race! Good luck.
Genius. But didn't go so well for me. I picked everything up at ace today including some pc7 epoxy for repairs. I actually already had a 16 inch long piece of 3/8 x 1 1/2, so that worked swimmingly. And then it all went south. I started to feel like I shouldn't turn any more, so I stopped. I heard a little crack and said I should come back to it in a couple hours. So, I doused it with Pb blaster, and headed inside. When I opened up the door to the house, I heard a loud pop and heard everything hit the floor. Doh! I guess there is going to be a lot of repair...
Sorry if I offered you bad advice on that one- I have a stock wheel from my roadster you can have if you want it- I switched to a Banjo. Or I'm sure one of the "A" guys has one we can "procure" if you can't fix yours. Weird that yours cracked where it did when the pressure should have been closer to the hub?? Hell's bells! Too tight too quick?
Not your fault I believe. I tightened it a little too quick, but I don't think that was the real issue. The wheel was actually split along the inner seam before I messed around with it. I have the column in a vertical position about 4 feet tall, meaning the wheel fell those four feet onto the frozen asphalt. I think it was just because it fell, and the plastic is so brittle. I will attempt to fix it with the epoxy I got, since all of the big pieces actually fit well together still. Might hit you up if it doesn't work out however.
Seeing the rust in the area there there wheel fell apart tells me that it was going to fail at some point anyway. Water had gotten in there over the years and we all know what happens from there, it rusted and lost its bond.
Correct. Has me wondering what to do with the rest of the wheel. I want to save it, but have to figure out just how far I should go. Cut and welded those rear shock mounts. A bear of a job to be honest. Question though: should a spacer be made so that they can be mounted? I think that lower bolt hole is shorter because the wishbone must have been mounted between it and the drum. So I can either a) cut the top one shorter to match, or b) spacer it out. I am a fan of the spacer because it would push the shock location out further away from the drum, but tell me what you think.
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