I did not buy the Rods or axles; that is just a photo of his setup. What year kingpin should I buy; my model a has the brake bell on top which would interfere with the brake cylinder.
Well. This pisses me off... 150 bucks after shipping. I had to sand the bronze bushings down for three hours, and then this happened. It won't close... Thoughts?
ask around for / rent a Porta-Power with a C-frame. Or someone with a shop press. Or, you are trying to do all the leaves at once. get out on the ends and do one at a time. this way will need more clamps though.
Think it will wear in? ----------------------- So I tapered the ends, rounded them, removed leaf number 2 and 4, chopped 4 to 12 inches, rounded and reverse tapered it, and then did the same to 2, but cut to 15 inches. Clips redrilled to work with two less leaves, hardened bolts put in clips. Still to chop main bolt.
It's really hard to tell from the pics but it looks like the new bottom leaf is drawn up tight where the center bolt is and the gaps are on both sides. If this is right, then the gaps on the 2 sides are due to slight spring curve differences and may be as good as it gets. It is after all a new aftermarket spring leaf, good luck.
Made a sweet adapter for the ole banger. Total cost: ten bucks; I used hardened bolts. But look at this. Tell me if this is going to be a huge problem; as the rust pile was under the timing gear cover.
Photo drop incoming: Rats nest in water passage; pitting near the piston head; and some rust. Tell me what my next move is, cause I don't have a book to tell me.
Your spring won't tighten up anymore because you've changed the order of the leaves- each one has a different arc based on original length.
I have only changed the order in a sense that I removed some, but I understand what you are saying. Anyways, I think I found out why it was parked... I removed the two bolts across from one another, but you can see the failure. Drive gear is siezed as well.
Ben, it looks like you need a parts engine! The head will probably function once it's cleaned up, but that's a great excuse to buy a hi compression head! Too bad you didn't come up to the Fryeburg Swap Meet in Maine on Sunday, I scored the back of a 30 Murray body A Sedan for FIVE DOLLARS. The guy also had a banger that looked to be from the same car and I bet he would have sold that for cheap too. It had paint on it, so I assume it was at least close to a runner. Anyway, next move is replace any broken parts. Get the assembly spinning. It looks decent enough to me to be worth trying to run before you go for a full teardown. Did you pull the valve cover yet? If not, do so and turn the crank to make sure everything is moving correctly. Lubricate everything.
I need to replace the timing and crank gears. Look at the shear. I am going to have to see the cam now, so that is why the torch is in frame. Tough nut to turn. Here is the valve cover removed; mustn't have gotten a photo for you yesterday; I removed the oil pump spring today; it was rusted away. The exhaust valve is stuck due to rust on its shaft. Edit: It doesn't get better
And on the fourth day of battle, the timing gear was removed as well as the cam. Here is the engine buildup: Winfield cam regrind from Mr. Stipe Winfield aluminum 6:1 head Equalizer intake Modern valves, springs, retainers, and guides. Adjustable tappets. Possibly oversized valves. New rings, and hone Porting hopefully custom header to be made, black painted, lakester style Tossing up Babbitt replacing vs insert bearing replacing. I am liking this part of the build more than the prior stuff... Total cost will be
If you're going 6:1 compression, send the Babbitt on vacation and do inserts so your bottom end will be a happy place- you're talking some serious time and money at this point, insure your investment for miles of carefree cruising. ( I haven't heard you mention nitrous yet??) Pretty soon you'll be running a 454 in that rig! ( 4 cylinders/ 54 HP) ( "I say, I say, that's a joke, son!" quote from Foghorn T. Leghorn)
Thought I was going to use that frame didn't you... Lookin good because I have been wire wheeling it all day. Finish with blaster and it will be good to go! But mike, next time I want the frame to be an April 1930 to match the engine, not a June 1930. Also got carded for buying wd40 that I am using to cover the frame. Didn't know that it was illegal to buy in California.
Ben, I have about a dozen A engines down here, and oil pans, sheesh, a ton of stuff. I don't have much tied up in most of it, so whatever you need would be quite affordable. Might be worth it for you to make a trip down.
Tell Elliot that, not me! That fame's made up from 3 different cars, so your choice of year(s)! Take the General up on his offer too, it's worth the trip to see his "collection" ! If you don't have a title for your car, at least you've got numbers now! Keep picking away!
I snagged this picture off of a FB repost. I thought of your build when I saw it, mainly because it's a great example of not overthinking or overworking a build and doing a lot with the little you've got. This is a good car to study.
"Can I help you, son?" "Yes, sir, let's see, I'll have a pack of gum, one of those combs, a pint of "Old Harper"------------
I like it. I mean, I could do without the dents and busted firewall, but I get the point. One kid gets to build his car for four years, the other builds a not so hot car for one year and enjoys it for the other three. Will hopefully see gow one day and get this banger fixed!
Preeeeeeetty sure back when that picture was taken, that car came out of a junkyard in running condition and 50 or 60 years younger than what you've got to work with now in 2015. That's not my point. Really, just study what the kid did. Channeled body Chopped windshield stanchions Removed bed (RPU) & Fenders Hacked firewall 16" wheels Dropped stock radiator in front of crossmember along with the headlights. Brakes maybe (can't tell)? Also, take a look at how it's channeled. See that thing that looks like a side pipe? I think that's actually wood and it's what the body is sitting on.
The channel is pretty nasty. Looks to be channeled six inches. Mustn't have much legroom! He must have kept everything stock and just moved the body down, that way the banger with all of its timing, choke and more still worked. The fuel tank must have been relocated and hacked up because the steering column was pushed up and it would interfere with each other. It looks like he has a floor inside of flat sheet, the body was taken off, a plywood slab bolted with spacers to the underside of the frame, and the body put to lay on that piece of wood. Finally took my crank off today. Crazy how the mounting bolts go through the block and are casselated on the outside. Trying to find my stud remover as some of the studs are actually bent and going with hardened studs would be best. Btw, that engine build up I posted is ideal and I will work towards that; not all at once. That being said, I am in the market for a 'b' or police head for the meantime.
Looking for a little help here. I have been having this issue with my machine for a while. Setup: Plugged directly into a 30 amp wall socket. I cleaned the ground via wire wheel as well as the site of attack. Running argon 75 co2 25, at 20 cfh, backing with copper plate. The settings on my machine say voltage 4, wire speed 50. Results not good. Lots of movement after weld and wormholes. I thought that I was getting no penetration, so I upped the voltage to 5 and 60. Mixed results. So, what am I doing wrong? I am good at running a bead but setting up the machine is not my strong suit.
looks like no gas shield around arc as for spring, it needs to match. disassemble the pack, lay the leaf that will be directly above the main leaf on the floor and trace the arc use a press to carefully bend your main leaf to match that arc
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