Technical 1930 ford pitman arm clearance help?

Need a little help I have a 1930 ford coupe split wishbone and I'm wanting to use the original steering box but the pitman arm hits the radius arm? Whats the way to go should I use a different pitman or ?

 

Pictures of the setup will help immensely

 

Not a lot of different options for a different pitman arm with the stock A steering. That square sector limits the choices.

Can the pitman be bent?

Show us pictures so we can see what's up.

 

A common modification a lot of A guys use is a shortened arm to make it steer easier. Cutting it down and welding it up isn't too hard. Many model A supply houses have them already shortened. If a shorter one will allow the clearance that might be an easy solution. I can't remember how much they take out. An inch or so I believe. Give Bert's in Denver a call and ask about them.


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This is my first rodeo so I figured I ask for some help. I'm sure its been done a thousand times before just not sure what the best way to go is.

 

You can probably heat it and bend it away since it has the old style tie rod end, it won't have to go far. I would advise against cutting and welding a pitman arm. If shorter ones are available as was mentioned, that would also work. meanwhile, what is going on with the bolt on steering arms on the spindles? They are 90* off and will not work at all that way.

 

Also I think the drag link should face outside the pitman arm, it's backwards to my eye.

 

I havent taken the drag link apart so I pretty sure its correct. The original location of the tie rod was above the radius arm it looks like my steering arms are 180 off I thought i have seen them like this?

 

I would flip that pitman arm around, and heat and bent it for clearance.

 

Drag link is correct in relation to pitman arm. ( see pic)You CAN buy a shortened pitman arm, which is actually supposed to improve steering. I think they're 1 1/2" shorter which should solve THAT problem. Steering arms look a bit "askew". Something's not right down there. 180* would put the tie rod in front. (see pic)
You need to check out some finished cars, find someone local you can ask questions, and maybe do some research on setting up your frame ( get a good guide book).
For me , setting up a frame is the most time consuming part of a build- lots of things have to be done a certain way as far as angles and relationship of action/ reaction with parts. It ****s to get a car "done" , take it on the road, and it tries to kill you. Most of the time, what's done as preliminaries in the shop will have to be "fine tuned" once it's on the road ( it's all theory till it's all reality, and 65mph is NOT a good time to find out something's real wrong).
Good luck with it.
Mike

 

The steering arms act as a lever, the part where the tie rod attaches faces points rearward, they should be bolted on the lower 2 holes of the spindle. I have have never seen them installed like that, ever. The way they are will allow the wheels to flop around on the tie rod ends and you wont be able to turn at all.

 

And a closer look reveals that you attached the original drag link arm to the steering arm where the tie rod goes. Lots of things to correct here.

 

Thanks for verifying, I havent seen a stock model a steering setup in so long I couldve sworn the thing was backwards, I stand corrected since the drag link ends can't be turned independently of the shaft.

 

I didn't look up front. Now that it has been mentioned, I see there is some weirdness going on up front. I suggest you do a google image search on hot rod front suspension/steering setups to see how they are supposed to be ***embled.

 

Drag link is actually a one piece unit with the ends facing in opposite directions- "in" for the the steering arm and "out" for the pitman arm( no adjustment)
Get it right the FIRST time! It's important ****!

 

Yah maybe just bluewrech and bend it just seems like a lot to bend. I'm sure I'll find another if I screw it up.

 

But you need to fix your other steering issues and how everything is bolted together before you get to bending that arm.

You need to get your steering arms bolted to the spindle correctly, and then if you wanted to flip the pitman arm, you could attach the drag link to the bottom of a steering hoop (which you don't currently have installed) and that would allow the pitman to flip.

 

Before you go and heat up anything, you need to correct all the problems that have been pointed out. This picture is an example on how everything should look. You will not be reusing the original drag link arm on the later spindles. Use a hair pin or wish bone style arm to connect your drag link to it. You can get a ball stud
that fits the tapered holes in the new arm and secure the drag link to it.

 

I guess I'm confused so what I have wont work? I mean it steers when bolted together I just cant have the radius arm hooked up at the same time because of clearance issues between the pitman and radius. Or is it not worth the trouble and s**** what I have and start over? Does anyone use the original steering from 30. So use a hoop to the drag link and arms to the tie rod and maybe a shorter pitman arm to give more clearance sounds like a plan. Thanks to all that have replied

 

The way you have it is exceedingly dangerous.

 

Theres also no weight whatsoever on the front suspension so even though you can get movement out of it like it is now, that will drastically change once an engine, body, fluids and driver are added. I cropped your picture. The shiny part is not designed to have forces applied to it in this orientation. It must be horizontal. You risk snapping the bolts holding it on and losing all your steering. And Murphy's Law usually takes effect at the most inopportune time, like say on the freeway.

 

Your main issue is how you have your steering arm attached to your spindles. The steering arms need to be attached to the two bottom holes. Like this.



And those arms are what your tie rod will attach to.
Then you need a steering hoop that will bolt onto the top two holes in your drivers side spindle. This is where your drag link will attach.

Steering when on your garage floor, and steering in a driving situation are two very different things.


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Got it now boy i feel stupid but like i said this is my first time. Makes sense now in the horizontal position it can take all the force put on it. So I'll chuck that tie rod and make a new one order a hoop and connect my drag link. What a great site so many people are on and willing to help.

 

You can't learn without asking questions. And thank you for not acting like a know it all who won't admit when he's wrong and just wants to argue, that happens here a lot more than I can handle. You'll get it figured out, just ask when you hit a road block.

 

Better to find out now and feel a little foolish than have a dangerous failure on the road.
There was a time none of us knew any of this stuff too.
And when the next thing that you aren't sure about comes up, ask away.

 

There re no stupid questions, but LOTS of incorrect answers!
I don't get directions real well, but show me a picture and it all makes sense.
Now that you've seen some examples, and understand there IS a problem, search for the CORRECT solution.
You've gotten some good feedback, and nobody is trying to bust your balls ( not yet anyway- there's always a few "keyboard experts" who'll chime in and don't know their *** from their elbow!!)

Find a hot rodder in your area who's willing to work with you and help you out- this **** isn't rocket science, but you can't go about it half ***ed either. Beer and pizza are great motivators ( when the work's DONE)
Keep plugging away!

 

I know this is an old post but do you have a part number for the correct ball stud to fit a Model A drag link and speedway hoop?

 

Check with Mac"s Early V8. They have two different ball studs. B3311 with threads. A3311w which is a weld on.They sell the loop too. X3131.

 

Secondary question: How does changing the length of the Pitman arm affect bump-steer?