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1930 Model A on deuce rails

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by rottenleonard, Nov 22, 2013.

  1. The gl*** looks exactly like I thought it would. I did a quick photoshop, a channelled '30 the straight gl*** suits the thinner side profile.

    1930-a-hallock.jpg

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
    Stogy and Hurley50 like this.
  2. Great work on the casting it looks *****in', I really like the lines. The new shop looks great too, congrats!
     
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  3. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    Thanks Jimmy you have a great eye for design. I hope to see the curved gl*** next week. I'm looking forward to blowing this thing apart and strapping it to my new ch***is table for final welding. Hope to be putting some miles on it this summer.

    Here is the new table as I got it. It was a base for some sort of machine out at the local paper mill. I was able to purchase it for $.12 a pound, then spent a day fixing issues and cleaning it up. Now it's out being sand blasted and powder coated. The dimensions of the top are 10'6" X 6'4" it was like it was made for these hot rod ch***is.
    20150211_134425.jpg
     
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  4. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    After making the necessary repairs to the new ch***is table I sent it off to Custom Coats here in Lewiston, I highly recommend them, they do great work at a very reasonable price.

    [​IMG]

    I did manage to put a day into the car this week, it was time to do something about the transition from the gas tank to the dash panel.

    The Brookville door meats the Brookville dash nicely:rolleyes: Marked for surgery,

    [​IMG]

    Cut, trim, hammer

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    Weld, grind

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    Using some 18ga I bent up this angle with a hemmed edge,

    [​IMG]

    With a little work on the stretcher it was a good start,

    [​IMG]

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    Next I drilled the fabricated piece threw the tank mounting holes, then inserted 1/4" bolts and tightened them up, they required a little shaping to get the new piece to fit correctly.

    [​IMG]

    And plug welded the panel down to the bolt heads, so it remains removable

    [​IMG]

    Ground smooth

    [​IMG]

    Then a strip of filler metal was cut and spliced in between the dash panel and the fabricated strip.

    [​IMG]
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    That just might work

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Now onto roughing in the end caps, looks a little scary here
    [​IMG]

    a little more Frankenstein action,

    [​IMG]

    Then capped the ends of the dash panel and overlapped the cowl panel, They get uglier before they get prettier.

    [​IMG]

    Some quick grinding

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    rinse and repeat on the other side

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    I am ordering a Brookville body in a few weeks, I hope their stuff fits their stuff better than it fit's Henry's,

    [​IMG]

    A little filler and all is good

    [​IMG]
     
  5. deucetruck
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 763

    deucetruck
    Member
    from Missouri

    I bought a Brookville roadster body a couple years ago and the gaps really seem to be pretty decent.
    BTW -amazing work on your project. Love to see someone with talent do their thing!! And that table turned out NICE. Way to think outside the box.
     
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  6. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    Thanks! I'm hoping they are decent, I won't have to do the final body work on it but still want my customer to be happy.
     
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  7. 08racer
    Joined: Jun 13, 2005
    Posts: 871

    08racer
    Member
    from Gilbert AZ

    I love that windshield frame.
    How did you go about sizing it for the casting?
     
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  8. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    I made the mdf form to fit and then figured shrink per foot and added it in to the longest most horizontal area of the frame, sent that off and had it cast "loose" once that was back i made a few adjustments and repeated the process and it came out really good, so a fixed and gated mold was made with the core box for the windshield groove. It was a long process but very interesting. I did it kind of the old fashioned way, i think with a 3D scanner, solid works and a 3D printer it could have been done easily.....but where is the fun in that.
     
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  9. 08racer
    Joined: Jun 13, 2005
    Posts: 871

    08racer
    Member
    from Gilbert AZ

    I agree. A 3d printer is cheating.

    Thanks for the information. I'm going to try it for my 29.
     
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  10. Roger53
    Joined: Aug 8, 2010
    Posts: 383

    Roger53
    Member

    Very cool like the windshield frame doing a great job. Roger
     
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  11. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,793

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Great build!
    Will you offer that windshield for 28-29 roadsters ,too?
     
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  12. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    I suppose it will depend on how we do on this one.
     
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  13. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    Well time to quit ignoring the fine Brookeville quarter on the left side of this thing, notice right below the RH windshield post how the belt line has a huge hump in it before it meets the trunk filler panel, I have stared at this for a long time trying to figure out how to fix it, came up with nothing so I just cut the **** out of it...
    [​IMG]

    Hope this works, hard to do to your $900 quarter panel,

    [​IMG]

    After a good beat down I started tacking it back together re shaping it as I went.

    [​IMG]

    Seems to be working
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    I would tack it up, grind it down and re shape when necessary,

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1930-model-a-on-deuce-rails.847304/page-4#post-10926807[​IMG]

    Fairly happy with the result, it needs some small tweaks but shows hope,

    [​IMG]

    Compared to Henry's side

    [​IMG]

    The belt line now matches within reason, But the trunk opening is a little high on the brookville, also the bead that runs down the side of the trunk is very square on the brookville and is slightly rounded on Henry's.
    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Roger53
    Joined: Aug 8, 2010
    Posts: 383

    Roger53
    Member

    Hi could I ask if this was a first run or a second. Because wow what a friggin hump and the height difference is also very noticeable.I was getting ready to order some for one of my builds . And for the price ya shouldn't have to be taken big friggin humps out! Some missing around ya we're missing with really old metal. I think the replacement sheet metal is great so don't get wrong. Roger
     
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  15. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    If thet were "seconds" they sure didn't give me any breaks for it.
    I will admit that once I quit *****in about the flaws and started fixing them I sort of enjoyed it, always fun to move metal around.
     
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  16. RodNoc
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 93

    RodNoc
    Member
    from Kelso, WA

    This looks incredible. Was it ever completed?
     
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  17. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    Sorry I let this fall off the face of the earth, I actually sold the car to a local school that is finishing it as a high school shop project, they have in the past completed a pretty nice Factory 5 33' hot rod, and they are using money from raffling that off to fund this new project to keep the ball rolling. I will ask Ryan if I can post a few updates of how they are doing from time to time on the car. It is cool to see a new generation of hot rodders being introduced to our hobby. For anyone interested here is a link to their website http://www.summithotrod.org/

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    So to continue this thread, i have started building another car pretty much exactly the same with the acception of using a Brookville body this time. It will still feature a streached width subfloor, and the ch***is was built on the jigs i made off the first car. Here is where it is at right now. 20160513_122658.jpg 20160513_122711.jpg 20160513_122722.jpg 20160513_122735.jpg
     
  19. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    So I thought i would take the afternoon off and work on the roadster a little, got the doors mounted, that went pretty smooth. It will require a little finessing at the cowl but very doable.
    14662007480341160152860.jpg

    There will be another piece of metal between the hinge and the inside of the A piller that should straighten out the gap.

    1466200782787-1564684862.jpg
     
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  20. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    Then quarter panel mockup seemed natural..... First thought WTF THOSE BODY LINES MUST BE AN INCH OFF.....WTF THAT'S GONNA BE FUN TO FIX...... then I noticed the body line,....hey thats a 28-9 quarter panel!:rolleyes::D Of course Brookville closed 20 minutes ago. Oh well I'm sure they will make it right.
    1466201180826240312524.jpg
     
  21. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    One thing that seems to be different with the Brookville vrs the Henry body is the cowl seems to sit up about 3/4 " higher, looks like i will have to save this firewall for my next original body build.
    1466463513422-1379561088.jpg

    So I took and cut my firewall buck in half right at the most vertical section snd grafted in a piece of 3/4" plywood to compensate. Then added another layer of 3/4 plywood to the back to make sure things were still strong enough.
    1466463711597-983464724.jpg
     
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  22. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    I got ahold of Brookville this morning and they are sending out the correct quarter panels this week. I will try to have the firewall fixed up by then.
     
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  23. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    Setting up the wood buck.
    1466549369174-1746211582.jpg
     
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  24. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,607

    manyolcars

    Your table sure does look nice. How much does it cost to powdercoat something that big?
     
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  25. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    I don't know what it would normally cost because they sort of did it as a favor.
     
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  26. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    As predicted, Brookville came threw quickly and the new quarters showed up today. 146714618899337575591.jpg
     
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  27. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    Here is the firewall roughed out over the modified buck.
    1467147966058-1480646226.jpg
    Then the buck is turned around and the flange for the subfloor and trans tunnel are formed.
    14671487603621960167061.jpg
     
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  28. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    14671494567561240374139.jpg 1467149939893-239067753.jpg To make life a little easier i have built these corner bucks to help with the forming.
     
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  29. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    On these ones I think I learened a little about tuck shrinking, I don't believe that i was trapping the tucks enough which was leading me to chasing the material all over. I think on the next firewall i might try it again without the relief. On this one however I now need to patch the relief cuts. 1467150384333534403363.jpg
     
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  30. rottenleonard
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,996

    rottenleonard
    Member

    In order to line up the doors the subframe needs to be shimmed. Notice the rear of the door top vrs the bottom.

    14671531561661553522350.jpg

    Hopped on the plasma cam and pulled up my body shim file.

    1467153286204-402348221.jpg
    Then hit the go ****on and shazam
    1467154189557-2099580576.jpg
     
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