Projects 1930 Oliver Roadster Build

Keep going on it, also check out a sight called Undead Sleds lots of good build stuff over there.

 

Hood sides! What a great and welcome surprise! Thanks Don!

 

Things have been slower but still working. Trying to clear my backlog of other crap in the way! The weather hasnt veen very friendly either

 

Swap meet score! Nabbed a windshield frame for a 25 chev roadster

 

Had to set it on... little cut and weld to be done to make it right

 

Trying to figure this out. I know a lot of guys did and do just run the lower glass but its always felt just a touch too short? I wont be running a top bar just pasted together the pics to illustrate the height i feel like im after or maybe i should run a top bar...

 

The irritating part is the amount of work im creating over basically an inch....which im sure is why guys ran the bottom glass and just went with it

 

Sometimes it's an inch that makes all the difference. Think 3" chop vs 4". I've also seen some builds where an inch was added or subtracted here, 1/2 there, etc. It's those little details that can make all the difference

 

Yeah, i hear you. Im certainly not building it in am effort to be easy either. I think i am going to table it and as we talked about, wait until i have it sitting on wheels and tires and sit in it a bit to see where my head sticks out....at minimum keep the bugs out of my teeth

 

My T has a single pane windshield that's a bit taller than just the lower piece, I really like having a frame all the way around the glass and no open edge, gives me a spot to clamp my rear view mirror to. Best to not set that height in stone until you have the car to a point where you can sit in it and see where the top bar comes into your view. Mine looks nice at the current height with no one in it but would be more functional if it was taller.

That frame you got does seem to work really well with that cowl though, once you get it dialed in it should be perfect.

 

Beautiful rod! Yeah i definitely should sit in the car and figure the height.... i mean i know this....buuut im impatient and i wanted to play with it so i just cut it up anyway! My wife shakes her head at me for very good reason sometimes... i DID leave myself an extra inch i can cut out later, basically made it an inch taller than i thought looked right. I will keep all the little pieces and if i just screwed up i can splice some back in i spose. Doing the same setup mike from this old hotrod did on his 27 t except this windshield stanchion is uniform sized so i can cut and weld wherever

 

Its hard to imagine im going to want it taller. I thought it needed 1-2" and i added 4.5"

 

I definitely wouldn't consider that too short, I wouldn't take anymore out until you have it on the car and can sit in it at the approximate seat height. Guys who only run the bottom section have more of a bug deflector than a windshield. You also might want to consider sectioning out one of the pivots, seems odd to have two on a single piece windshield.

 

The

Only reason to keep both pivots is to sandwich the glass between the 2 pieces (top/bottom) otherwise how do i get the glass in and out? Unless i run screws from the top down to the bottom

 

I have a friend who used no top bar on windshield frame. First long trip on the freeway the glass broke.

 

Usually the chop is done at the widest point, & that usually is the top of the w/s frame, @ the 45* corner. There is usually a tab, maybe 3/4" long by 1/4" wide x 1/8" thick that slides down near the outer portion of the inside glass channel, & has 2 small threaded holes, for like say 10-24 or 10-32 x ~ 1/4" long(or less) machine screws - maybe either flat head or slight-domed-headed(These look better). You could add something like that at your cut line, or when you figure out needed/wanted w/s height, weld the current cut up, & cut at the 45* + add a tab if there isn't one. Does make life easier when done. You may be able to add a tab at your current cut, maybe the tab has to welded to the outside(on the back), but you're still going to have to add weld or braze somewhere in the channel for the screws to hold into. The tabs aren't for strength, just to keep the w/s frame together. Watch out for glass clearance - it doesn't take much to make the glass go "tink", even w/setting tape.
Marcus...

 

Yeah thats how my 33 dodge frame is from the factory, great idea! My previous thought was to maybe use the screw hole from the original lower glass retaining tabs and buy a 5 inch screw that runs from the upper frame, down inside the tube and threads into those factory holes. Then i saw mike on this old hot rod do it the way i have it cut so i started thinking that looked decent....giving it more thought, making it pivot and function would look and work better

 

Threw some tacks on the frame and pulled the tabs off of the lower frame, sat in the car on some blocks, not exactly a scientific test as it would be on its suspension and tires but i dont think ill have any issues!

 

Anyone have an educated opinion on using a rubber seal under the frame to the cowl vs lowering the frame til its touching or both?

 

My car has a little rubber seal at the bottom, that's always a good idea, but I'd say your frame needs to come down quite a ways regardless. It should match the arch of the top of the cowl really well once you get it in position, but even with a rubber on the underside I feel like it's too high. A 1/4 inch clearance with a little rubber seal at the bottom seems ideal to me.

 

I like that, feels like itll look and function best. The curve currently doesnt match the cowl perfectly bit its close

 

Scooped up a 37 ford pickup banjo today for a steal and the guy was super nice, got to talkin and before i knew it he gave me 4 wide 5 wheels in great shape, a bunch of wide 5 caps and several boxes of 53 ford parts for the car im building dad. I left my number with him.and told him if he needs any hard to find stuff to give me a holler and ill try and track it down for him. Always good meeting good folks!

 

Grabbed some 46-48 rear radius rods... I think I may be able to cut and splice them into whats left of the 36 radius rods that some joker cut off. being the short 46-48 radius rods they should be perfect for the shortened torque tube. I picked up some old hot rod banjo from the junkyard too, has a shortened driveline, juice brakes, narrower bells than the 46 but wider bells than the 36/37. No idea what that means! Im also thinking between the 4 banjos I might be in business. By my inderstanding, 36 ford rear drums will fit 46-48 rear juice brakes. Furthermore, 37 rear drums will fit front or rear 46-48 juice brakes, so IF my 36 and 37 drums are servicable, i think im all set there. Lots of options for driveline, have a 46 with the coupling, also have the afore mentioned shortened one. Going to tear down the hot rod banjo and the 46 i think, probably leave the 36 and 37 assembled til i know where everythings gonna sit. Also grabbed some ragtop bows, going to take 2 different cars worth of crusty pieces and make my own setup (i kmow the crusty set is originally 14/15 model t)

 

Had the kids so couldnt do much but got an awful urge to see this thing sort of sittin on tires so out i went...need a drum puller so i can swap all these drums around

 

No luck pulling the wide 5 drums with my 3 jaw and im too cheap to spend 80 bucks so im making my own puller. Good excuse to use my new 50s craftsman!

 

Kind of plodding through it

 

might want to invest in a torch!

 

Yeah maybe!

 

Picked up an engine donor...its cooooool just hope i can shoehorn it in there! 337, says lincoln on those giant heads, even has a 4 speed hydro behind it that may come along for the ride, undecided

 

The tail lights in that Lincoln Cosmo are solid gold, if you part that car out, cut the surrounding sheetmetal out for the tail lights to go with them. Some other good bits on there, those trunk hinges could be used on an early car, and the rear window and surrounding sheetmetal would be great for a chop on a big 50's car. If the steering wheel is the same as the baby Lincoln, they're quite desirable by the custom Merc crowd. I'm not sure what a Cosmo has though.

Those Lincoln flatheads are HEAVY, hope your front suspension is beefy enough to hold it up!