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1930 Roadster Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ml_engr, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. Flop
    Joined: Jun 8, 2006
    Posts: 3,885

    Flop
    Member

    carful with those cowl patches . they are not going to line up with your door .

    nice work !!
     
  2. charlieb66
    Joined: Apr 18, 2011
    Posts: 549

    charlieb66
    Member

    X2 to what Flop said. Best to have door mounted and match cowl panel to it.
     
  3. Flop
    Joined: Jun 8, 2006
    Posts: 3,885

    Flop
    Member

    here is my example of snyders "top of the line" patch


    [​IMG]
     
    Stogy likes this.
  4. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 866

    greaser
    Member

    Welcome to the HAMB.
    Your off to a great start! Gonna be a cool little roadster. Keep the pics coming.
     
  5. LQQKER
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 84

    LQQKER
    Member

    Ouch.....those top of the line panels are not what I would have expected. Any suggestions of better panels for us less experienced metal men who haven't yet developed the skills or acquired the tools to fab our own.
     
  6. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    What a great project! Keep them progress updates coming. Looking good!
     
  7. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    Thanks!! Honestly the work you do inspired me to try it myself...and now I know exactly how talented you really are.

    I made the mistake of assuming that if I bought all the patches from the same place the beads would be the same...not so much. Now I have some serious challenges ahead of me. But I will figure it out one way or another.
     
  8. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    No problem Bob. Glad I could help out.
     
  9. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

  10. HRK-hotrods
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 922

    HRK-hotrods
    Member

    Nice work. Keep the updates coming!
     
  11. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,313

    The37Kid
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  12. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    Someone brought up that old post and I just happened to see it. I was so excited to see even a little history on the car.

    Turned out to be a great Valentines Day for my little roadster.
     
  13. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    Finished getting the inner door weded up, put it on the car just to make sure it all fit. I coated it with por15 and will skin it later this week.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013
  14. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    I also spent some time looking the skins. The top beads line up well and the top of the bottom bead lines up as well. So the break on the bottom needs to be "moved" a good .25 inches. If anyone has an idea of how to do this other than beating to death with a hammer and dolly...I am listening

    Top Bead
    [​IMG]

    Top of bottom bead
    [​IMG]

    I think this can be manipulated with force
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013
    Stogy likes this.
  15. zzpaulhayes59
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 1

    zzpaulhayes59
    Member

    WOW!!! Slip, that's incredible metal work. Thank for sharing.
    You've inspired my to start a project
     
  16. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 604

    Hurley50
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NC

    I have that same problem with the bottom of the bottom bead.
     
  17. ESGEE
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 615

    ESGEE
    Member
    from Sweden

    This will be a thread to follow, keep the good metalwork up...
     
  18. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    Not much going on, cleaned up some bits and pieces. Then I hosted a multi-day por15 party. It's still raging.

    [​IMG]

    Also received a drop axle from Joes Speed shop. Top notch shop out there in OK, and he clearly knows what he is doing...now I just need everything else that attaches to it. Going to hit Pamona while I am in Oxnard for training next week, maybe the hot rod gods will shine on me.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013
    Stogy likes this.
  19. Nice work man, subscribed
     
  20. Beau
    Joined: Jul 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,884

    Beau
    Member

    I just did one of my lower patches. I measure my door bead first. It was a huge pain in the ass making it work. By the time I was done I could have probably made my own

    Henry put about 4 different curves in that panel as far as I could tell. No where near flat in any direction. I had to do a lot of work for mine to match up.
     

    Attached Files:

  21. McFly
    Joined: Oct 10, 2001
    Posts: 1,169

    McFly
    Member

    Swing by the Early Ford Store, they will have everything you need. Nice project.
     
  22. 562roadster
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,361

    562roadster
    Member

    You've done a great job saving this Roadster! Keep up the good work
     
  23. Stormin' Norman1
    Joined: Jan 15, 2009
    Posts: 134

    Stormin' Norman1
    Member

    Great first project, and nice car to strat with. I'll be watching this one!
     
  24. HellsHotRods
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,425

    HellsHotRods
    Member

    X2 for the Early Ford Store in San Dimas. Bill will have everything you need, new or old.


    Great project !!! Looks like your headed in the right direction.
     
  25. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    Well done. That's a much cleaner job than I did.

    I even bought the "deluxe" panel with the curve in them and they still needed a hell of lot of work. I should have matched the panel to the door and not the other way around. Live and learn...but its only metal, so I will figure it out.
     
  26. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    Early Ford Store, just checked out their website...will make sure to stop by on my way out of Town.
    How are prices on used parts?
     
  27. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    So long story short just before heading to LA one of my best friends father passed. So I didnt get to spend too time at the swap meet. I was only there from 5am to 7:30 before the service, but did manage to score hubs and spindles for a more than fair price. Saw many things I could of used but I was by myself and more or less running through the place. I did manage to walk every aisle of the swap meet in 2.5 hours...yes I do run marathons.

    Here are the new bits
    [​IMG]

    I finished the POR15 party and managed to paint the subrails and most of the inner panels that will never see paint. With that done I was able to get the door back together. Its still needs adjusting but I am happy with the result. I am confident I can get all the beads to match up, its just gonna take some beating.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So I have to use a piece of threaded rod to spread the cowl from the rear quarter to get the door to close. I am sure the subrails have a bow in them. If you look at the pictures of it sitting in the barn, without doors you can see how this could have happened. But the rails seem to sit flat on the table? I think they may be bent right where the cowl and door meet. Anyone got an idea of how I could check this?
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013
    Stogy likes this.
  28. 31ster
    Joined: Dec 26, 2007
    Posts: 215

    31ster
    Member

    Once you fit the body to the frame with the wooden body mount blocks it will be solid and you can adjust the gaps that way. My roadster body was like a wet noodle until it was mounted
     
  29. e-tek
    Joined: Dec 19, 2007
    Posts: 424

    e-tek
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    Your door metal work is damn fine for someone with "no skill"!

    I was going to build a very similar wood 'frame bench' but decided to make it from steel so I could weld parts to it as needed.

    Subscribed!
     
  30. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    So got a little more done over the last week. Started on the driver door. removed the skin so I can rebuild the lower inner and the area around the latch. I will need the channel that holds the seal on the bottom, any idea where to find it?? Also, installed a repop rear panel. Used the guts from the original and added some brackets on the sides. It came out ok but does fit nearly as well as the original, but this ones not rotten.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I also got the quarter patch in as well

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013
    Stogy likes this.

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