1930s Era Champ Car - new project

Yup! My brother isn't into hot rods much, he's more of the restoration type. Me, take a torch to it and make that engine fit in there. ratrodder goes both ways. He's also planning something like your replica champ car only different...

 

Wow Dave, in a small way I'm beginning to feel a bit like family.

 

You're welcome to join our bench racing / holiday meals / "back in my day" sessions anytime! Just be sure to bring quick wits and your sarcasm pills!

 

Trouble maker! Keep up the good work...

 

As this year winds down I'll look back on the things that got done on my champ car:

SPLIT THE DRAG LINK
MOUNTED EXHAUST PIPE HEAT SHIELD
MADE A SEAT PAN
MADE A FUNCTIONAL REAR HAND BRAKE
PAINTED AND NUMBERED STONE GUARD
HOOD SIDE PANELS
BEGAN HOOD TOP
REAR CRASH BAR
HOOD STRAP KIT
UPGRADED REAR BRAKES
NEW REAR AXLES
STARTED GRILL INSERT
DRIVESHAFT
PLUMBED THE BRAKE SYSTEM
REAR SHOCKS
FRONT SHOCKS
REBUILT FRONT SPINDLES

In the coming year I have the following objectives:
RE-INSTALL THE C4 TRANS WITH BETTER SHIFT LINKAGE
PLUMB THE FUEL SYSTEM
FIND A PLACE TO MOUNT A BATTERY
WIRE THE CAR
INSTALL A FUEL FILLER NECK AND CAP
COMPLETE THE CRASH BARS
NERF BARS ON REAR HAIRPINS
SMOOTH THE SHEET METAL
SKIM COAT
PURCHASE DAYTON WIRE WHEEL$
TRADITIONAL CHAMP CAR TIRES
PRIME AND 2-TONE PAINT
GRAPHICS (TRADITIONAL SCALLOPING)
NUMBERS AND OTHER SIGNAGE
FLUID FILL
TEST DRIVE
REGISTER AND INSURE
ATTEND VINTAGE RACES

Stay tuned to see how much of this stuff gets completed in 2023.
Happy New Year
Peace,
FTF

 

Git 'er done!

Just remember, we're all in this together. We're pulling for you...
And duct tape, lots of duct tape.

 

thanks...
and wire ties...
and hose clamps

 

Don't forget the bailing wire...

 

FTF, I have been running into the same issues with my Ford 9" that you did and I am pretty sure I have the same axle as you. Have no idea where it came from but my backing plates have the same number as your did and my brake drums are the same measurements as well. Can you confirm for me what your final solution was and where you sourced your brake drum assemblies? I think you said you got them from Quick Performance but would appreciate if you could verify. I just put a Currie 3rd member in my F1 but won't have it on the road until I get the brakes sorted out. Thanks in advance. Greg

 

Greg I feel your pain. I never did figure out what my rear end came out of. It did not match up to any published data. I suspect it was an early truck.
I did indeed finally get all the rear end pieces sorted out. I ended up with bigger brakes since that was the way all the other pieces sourced out. Everything outboard of the center section was sourced from Quick Performance and after I sent them detailed drawings of where their originally supplied parts did not fit my housing they supplied complete brake assemblies as well as the correct axles. Overall I am very satisfied with their service and the quality of the parts received.

 

Thanks for getting back to me and impressive drawings! I'm even more convinced we have the same rear axle and shafts down to the shorter studs, equal lengths and approx 2" offset. I know it's been awhile but would you happen to know exactly what they provided you with? I'm actually in communication with them as we speak on one of their ebay auctions and they've been very responsive. THANKS

 

Sorry Greg, I'm on another planet right now until winter passes and my records are all back on Earth. I was trying to remember the guy I spoke with but can't. I'll PM you my personal contact info I used to deal with them and maybe thay can look back in their records and see exactly what components they supplied me.

 

Know that with their parts the rear track is going to be a bit wider. No problem for me with an open wheeled car, except my trailer was built exactly as wide as the rear track, so I may be adding some kind of outrigger shelf to hold the rear tires.

 

Nah! Just knock the centers loose, move the rims inboard, and reweld. With everything else you've done narrowing a pair of wheels would be a piece of cake.

 

Its not that easy.
Right from the get-go I planned to have Dayton wire wheels. After phone conversations with Dayton and describing what I have for hubs they said that likely adapters are going to be needed between my axle hubs and their wires with the knock-off hubs. So in addition to working with the wire rim sizes available I'll no doubt have to add the spacer width to the track width. At this time the true track width is a little indeterminate, especially since I have not decided on the final rim size, but likely wider than the roller wheels and tires I have on there to roll it around. My biggest concern is towing it down to Dayton and not having enough trailer width to get it back home where I can adjust the rear deck width of the trailer aft of the fenders as needed.

 

Ah, that's the rub, as they say! I must say that I did the same thing for my Mini trailer so the whatever project will fit. And I still have to figure out how to get the front wheels past the fenders... Doh!
Here's the original trailer with the non-compliant vehicles both towing and riding.
Here's the trailer with the new axle, fenders, and widening stuff both ahead of and behind the fenders. And yes, I'll have to put riser blocks under the rear tires so they don't ride on the edges of recessed ramps. Double Doh!

I'm planning on using space saver spares on the front to get the width down. Something from a late model Caprice type car with the 5x5 bolt pattern. Triple Doh!

But the next Mini, an early 60's, will still fit...

 

I had to make a removable riser to get the front tire cleanly over the trailer tire even with the breakaway fender.

 

Hmmm... I wonder... going back to the drawing board...

 

The next Mini?? Is this the one we shoe-horn a 400 SBC into? Sure it'll be a little nose-heavy, but just think of the looks we'll get with some demo derby headers poking through the bonnet!

Sorry FTF - back to your previously scheduled programming.

 

So FTF, anything going on in the garage lately? I'm in need of motivation. It appears everyone is like me and hibernating.

 

It's been tough. At the moment I'm sipping a Marguerita with my toes in the surf (dreaming of going sailing or flying) and thinking of stuff to do when I get back on it. Stay tuned.

 

Wasting away in Margaritaville... okay you get a pass for now. Me, I have no excuse. Well except procrastination, if I can get around to it.

 

I'm back in Frenchtown and eager to start up on the champ car, and also the Anglia. Winter had its share of ups-and-downs, as an ice storm knocked out power for several days and my basement shop subsequently flooded while I was away.
That has caused me to take a look at reducing my posessions. In addition to other stuff I have decided to put my 1946 pickup up for sale on the HAMB "Cars for Sale" section.

Greg B Jr, I'll dig out my QP rear axle data if you still need it. Did you ever get your axle problem resolved?

 

I made a filler pipe for the gas tank to connect to the external cap. The quick release internal cap will not work with my body. This little pipe will get welded into the tank and connect up to the cap mounted on the side of the body.

 

I picked up this steering wheel quick disconnect at a flea market. I'll use it. I will need to adapt it up to the splined tapered Ford steering box shaft, no doubt with a welded bushing of some sort. What I do not want to do is disassemble the box to weld it up.

 

I dig that engine turned dash! looks great behind that steering wheel!

 

Thanks VERNOR-GREEN
After watching a few Youtube videos on the subject. I went with the lo-tech approach using a stiff wire brush in my drill press with the bristles bound with zip ties. One thing I think helps the look is to space each row with a 60 degree offset, instead of aligning each swirl over one in the previous row.

 

I've used similar styles of quick disconnect hubs. Usually that style of hub adapter welds to the end of the steering column, typically 3/4 inch diameter heavy wall tubing or solid stock. However I have seen the ones made by Schroeder for their own steering boxes, which have the older keyed 7 degree tapered shaft like some Fords had. They were designed to bolt on. I don't know if they still are available from ididit since they took over the Schroeder line. That one you have looks like it came from Speedway (purple color is the giveaway). No idea if they make any other style of adapter.

 

The offset makes it look very traditional like an early aircraft I would assume your style and method is pretty much how it was done then vs. a Craystick or Scotch pad . I'll keep this in mind when I do my 40 Packard dash !

 

If I were to refine the process further I think I'd set the spacing a skosch closer. But by the time I punch it full of gauge holes and switches I think it will be adequate.