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1930s Era Champ Car - new project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER, Nov 20, 2007.

?

Another question: Posi or non-posi?

Poll closed Aug 18, 2021.
  1. Posi for two-wheel traction

    100.0%
  2. No Posi for better handling in the corners.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  1. VERNOR-GREEN GARAGE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 266

    VERNOR-GREEN GARAGE
    Member
    from Michigan


    I think the spacing is fine, it has a nice uniform radial /sunburst look it fits the size of the panel and yes the gauges will change the perspective a bit
     
  2. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    The carbs needed a fuel log, the first step in getting fuel to the engine. I will use an electric pump. The tank has 8AN fittings (1/2 inch) and I will make a reducer to use 3/8 fuel line. The OEM nipples on the carb bowls are 1/4" so I made a fuel log with a 3/8" inlet and two 1/4" outlets.

    fuel log 01.JPG fuel log 02.JPG fuel log 03.JPG fuel log 04.JPG fuel log 05.JPG
     
  3. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Here's how the new fuel log aligns with the carb inlets. I will probably mount the fuel log under the intake manifold so it stays clear of the yet-to-be-designed gas pedal linkage.

    fuel log 06.JPG
     
    HJmaniac likes this.
  4. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Starting on the fuel system at the tank I looked into ordering a 90 degree 8AN fitting for the tank outlet. It was going to cost me $13 plus another $16 shipping to get it to my door. Now I don't know about you, but paying $29 for one nipple - OK, I won't go there - was more than I was willing to spend.
    The block-off caps that came on the tank had an insert so I thought I'd just make a nipple and weld it on to the cap insert.
    I removed the insert and bored and reamed it to .375.
    fuel sys 01.JPG fuel sys 02.JPG fuel sys 03.JPG fuel sys 04.JPG

    My fuel line was just a few thou bigger than 3/8" so I turned it down to get a press fit before putting a 100 degree bend in it with a barbed end.

    Welding on a piece of thinwall aluminum tubing was going to challenge my skill level so I fixtured it up so my weld would be helped by gravity; that is to say I did not want to see any undercut on the tube which could weaken the joint and cause a fracture down the road (or track). It worked OK.
    fuel sys 06.JPG
    Finally I placed a Holley blue pump at its approximate mounting position to see how it looked. The blue pump is overkill for my peanut motor but with a pressure regulator I can see what those carbs will want for fuel pressure. The carbs are on about the same plane as the outlet of the tank so it shouldn't take much pressure to get fuel to them.

    fuel sys 05.JPG
     
  5. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I slid the quick release steering hub over the Ford shaft to see what size adapter sleeve I was going to need and - son-of-a-gun! - it fit on the shaft snuggly. I never have that kind of luck. I will weld it in after I determine how to clock it.

    Steering 19.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    lurker mick and HJmaniac like this.
  6. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I've been doing some more thinking about headlight mounting. I had thought about using cut down sockets. My biggest concern was water migrating down inside the frame rails.
    So now I think use a deep well socket, inverted, inserted thru the frame, welded top and bottom and make a gracefully curved stalk that is bushed for a snug fit on top and plugs into the square drive at the bottom for a truly leakproof plug-n-play, or unplug-n-play as the case may be.
    headlite 06.JPG headlite 07.JPG
    I would like to find female mounting pads to accept the ball mounting stud on the headlight bucket. Does anybody know a source for these items? I would prefer not to have to make them. The mounting stud is 5/8" in diameter.
    headlite 08.JPG
     
  7. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

  8. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,450

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Please make sure to get lots of pictures of the headlight mounts as you make all the bits and bobs. I'm going to plaigerize your idea, AGAIN! Seems like a good way to go for the Whatever project also...
     
    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER likes this.
  9. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Fuel log was located under the carbs, and a fuel pressure regulator mounting bracket was fabbed.
    fuel sys 07.JPG fuel sys 08.JPG fuel sys 09.JPG


    Yesterday I was out at the track doing some testing on my drag cars and was parked near the track . An 8-second door car lost it, crossed the centerline, got back on it (bad decision) and hit the wall, skittered over the two lanes and swerved back to hit the wall again HARD. That made me decide to add an inertia kill switch to the electric fuel pump.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2023
  10. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,450

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    When you say fuel log you really mean it! Love the fancy spacer between the carbs and manifold...
     
  11. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Wood doesn't char until about 450*F. I think a couple of carbs hanging out in the air will never get anywhere near that temp.

    I have been using this wooden plenum spacer on my drag car for about 20 years.
     

    Attached Files:

    Dave G in Gansevoort likes this.
  12. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 1,311

    AmishMike
    Member

    Probably not HAMB friendly but what crossflow head is on your drag car? Welding up V8?? How many pieces from which cylinders?
     
  13. MMM1693
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 1,473

    MMM1693
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Your skills and workmanship are envious
     
  14. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    one piece
    cast iron
    experimental
    factory
    prototype

    Never made it to production.
    Pity
    550 HP na on gas
     

    Attached Files:

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  15. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Thank you MMM
     
  16. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Thank you Dave. I'm considering engraving the top of it - maybe with a woodland scene with trees and deer and bunnies, or maybe a couple of sprinters drifting out of a corner???
     
    Dave G in Gansevoort likes this.
  17. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,450

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    I'd go with the cars drifting.
     
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  18. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    PARALISYS BY ANALYSIS

    Do any of you suffer from this?
    I do.

    I often find myself putting off doing something on a project - be it building a hot rod, making upgrades to a race car, making home improvements, or looking after my personal wellness - until I have analized all the potential risks and ramifications and only then do I tentatively take a step to move the project forward.
    Such is the case with this champ car. I put off drilling a hole in the frame because it may weaken it. I put off putting hose or wiring clamps on a panel because the drilled hole could lead to corosion around the already painted surface. I put off adding a mounting tab because the car may have to be repainted in that area after grinding/torching the panel. I put off noisy bearing / leaky seal replacements because that will mean pulling the engine / trans or rear end. I put off doing final welding on parts tack welded to the chassis because "hey, I may need to weld additional stuff on down the road - why disassemble the car twice?"
    While doing my fuel lines I was agonizing over using barbed hose ends or threaded coupler fittings, over making the fuel line in one piece or several pieces, over using steel or aluminum lines, or even rubber hose in some short sections, yadda, yadda...
    Finally I just said screw it, lets get something done and ordered all the necessary materials to do the fuel lines. So at least I "landed that plane" today.
     
  19. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,450

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Yup! Been there done that! Suspension for the Whatever project... And countless other projects. I blame it on engineering school.
     
  20. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    OK, I'll blame it on that...
    something they didn't tell me about when they handed me a diploma.
     
  21. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,450

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    As a t-shirt I have says:

    I'm a great
    Enginere...
    Enginear...
    Enginerr...

    I'm good at math
     
  22. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Today I completed all the plumbing for the fuel system. It took nearly all day to cut and bend and flare the pieces. One devilish detail I corrected was the brass barbed fittings had sharp cornered barbs. Barbs like that tend to scrape off bits of the rubber fuel lines when stuff gets disassembled. Then the bits end up in the pump / regulator / carbs. I made a quick arbor to hold all the fittings.
    All that's left on the fuel system is to patch in the new tank filler neck and mount the gas gauge (out of sight).

    fuel sys 12.JPG fuel sys 13.JPG fuel sys 14.JPG fuel sys 15.JPG fuel sys 16.JPG

    Tech tip: Our coffee maker died. Before tossing it in the trash I disassembled it, as I am wont to do on broken stuff, to see what if anything can be salvaged. I took out that clear silicone tubing. It is good to use for mocking up fuel line connections because it slips on easily over the barbed end yet holds the plumbing firmly. Useful
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2023
    HJmaniac likes this.
  23. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 2,197

    spanners
    Member

    If my coffee maker died I'd be a widower.
     
  24. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,450

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    If my coffee maker dies, my wife will be a widow... Something's wrong with my system.
     
  25. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    More parts for the loud pedal connection, beginning at the carbs. I'll make a bell crank to hold a 1/4" heim in double shear, with a link to a right hand bell crank to a rod to another bell crank inside the cowl and finally a link down to the gas pedal.
    gas pedl 15.JPG gas pedl 16.JPG

    This part will also have a place to mount a throttle return spring(s).
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2023
    HJmaniac likes this.
  26. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Here's a little preview of the rest of the carb end throttle linkage.

    gas pedl 17.JPG
     
  27. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,450

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Okay so I'm thinking that you need to replace as many screws as possible (and safe...) with brass round head slotted screws. Nicely polished and clocked... I'm just saying
     
    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER likes this.
  28. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    All fasteners are tentative. I have acorn nuts for many. I'll look into brass for some era correct bling.
     
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  29. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,971

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I started on the linkage that will be inside the cockpit. Two brass arms mounted on a stainless hollow shaft. I may add nylon bearing inserts to the mounting brackets (Thompson Nyliner).

    gas pedl 18.JPG
     
  30. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,450

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Brass! Mmm!
     

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