Projects 1930's style Race Car build

I checked the Hastings catalog and they only manufacture STD rings for the 3.4's
The ring gap was within specs when it was assembled. I encountered several questionable issues during tear down and reassembly, nothing that should have caused catastrophic failure.
Jag owners informed me that a proper rebuild could take a year and cost would be around $20,000.
The engine looks great in the car but a $20,000 engine is not a good idea. The car does not have a very good market and I would loose thousands if I were to sell it with the Jag engine.

 

If you give dimensions, they will match it up, not by engine make or size.

 

Good Luck.

 

A valve failed a fluid test, it all ran out the exhaust valve. I've ordered a valve and will know later this week if its a fix.

 

I replaced all of the valves. It started on the first try, and runs great. It idled at around 400 rpm and was smooth as silk, even before a proper carb tune.

 

Nice sleuthing! Time for a driving video for us to ooh and ahh over!

 

The engines 500 mile break-in is complete. I checked the oil filter pleats and they were excellent. The engine is running great. The transmission is a Moss 4 speed with no synchro on 1st, 2-3-4 are synchronized, it requires a little finesse.

 

Marvelous!...Bravo! , way better than a SBC

 

I forgot to mention this was my first engine rebuild. It was a great experience, maybe I'll get a chance to do another one. The transmission and overdrive also had to be disassembled, cleaned, inspected and assembled, I've rebuilt a couple of manuals.

 

Thanks!

 

You could have kept the T5 to put it behind the Jag 6.
Nice car. I really like those wheels.

 

My T5 is a GM, the Ford T5 is the only one they make adapters for. The GM input shaft is too short even for a custom adapter.

 

Oil pressure after engine break-in and first oil change. The break-in oil was 30w with no detergent, it now has Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 racing oil. During the break-in period, the oil pressure was 25 psi at idle and 40 psi at 2000 rpm. With the Valvoline VR-1 the oil pressure is now 30 psi at idle and 50 psi at 2000 rpm. Should the oil pressure be different with 10w-30 VR-1?

 

Here's some new photos. It's running great now, and it's so much fun to drive.

 

It’s beautiful, you did a great job. It looks like it would be fun to drive on some curvy mountain roads

 

Nicely done Jay, it looks well balanced, any idea of the front rear weights?

 

It weighs about 1300 lbs. But I don't know the front rear weights. It's fun to drive. The handling is great, especially for a solid front axle.

 

Bet it Sounds Pretty Good Too!

 

It has the correct all important elbow to rear wheel ratio too...

 

The Jaguar 3.4 that's in the car now, appeared to be a collection of parts. The head and the block are matching casting number. The oil pan was most likely from a different block, as were the sump pickup tubes. The pan and pickups were both damaged by metal pieces bouncing around in the pan.
There were some odd things also, like one of the main nuts was secured by a tab lock washer made out of a tin can.

 

Now that there is aerospace engineering! Why I bet that would be good to at least once to 5 grand! Then, well, let's not go there...

 

I recently completed a few updates and fixes.
The oil filter pointed downward, no oil in the filter at startup. This caused the oil pressure to delay at startup. I replaced the oil filter assembly with an up facing filter, proper oil pressure at startup.
The sump was damaged and leaked lots of oil. I replaced it with one in excellent condition, with no oil leaks.
I added a fan shroud too. I used a small kerosene flask as an overflow tank.
It's been a while since I worked with copper, so it's got a custom copper catch can now.

There are still a couple of minor oil leaks, one's the intake cams oil feed inlet. Someone had damaged the banjo bolt threads, so I had to install a heli-coil insert. I tried new copper washers and crush washers; it still leaks a little. It might damage threads if I tried to tighten it more.
It recently started leaking a lot of oil from the rear transmission seal. The seal was replaced during the rebuild. I have another new one on order. The yoke may have a groove in it where the seal sets.

 

speedi-sleeve!

 

So Cool. Be proud at what you have accomplished.

 

It's been a great experience, Thanks

 

I'll measure the yoke to see if there's a speedi-sleeve that will fit.

 

This thing is fantastic.

 

I finally got the transmission oil leaks stopped, maybe. Some of the sump bolts leak occasionally, they use copper washers, I'll be trying crush washers next.