I bought this car here is Texas about two years ago in Taylor/Granger. I have been acquiring parts and reading and researching the best ways to go about building my car. Wanted to start a thread on the build and get any tips along the way. Banger motor that came with the car was super heathy and honestly a ripper, but really wanted to go with an AV8. The body is ruff in spots but fixable. Previous owner made a subframe/rails from 1” tubing, which I plan to rip out and make or buy a repop. I have since sold the Banger and full drive train. Purchased an 8ba and 8cm from a guy here in Texas along with 40’ juice brakes all around and a 39 trans. Turned up a 40 rear end and have just finished rebuilding/ buttoning it up. I have also removed my front cross member and set it back in and kicked up the rear tardel style.
Motors I purchased in granbury Texas. The 8ba is a runner little smoke I was told, but the price was right so I had to pull the trigger. The 8cm was cheap enough and was rebuilt recently but the previous owner spun a bearing and removed the motor from his car and left it in the corner of his garage for a year or so.
The frame horns were both bent and braced very oddly with 1/4 steel pieces. I removed both and tried to reshape them and ended up buying new ones and sunk them in. I am not a great welder but try my best.
Can't shake the thought that your budget must be pretty tight looking at things like that frame you're working on. There are some things that make the foundation of a build and the frame is most of it. Even as a competent welder, alignment problems are tough to deal with successfully. Years ago my dad would point out cars that would "dog track", meaning that the axles were out of alignment. Not expecting that to become one of your problems, but the frame is place where you base an expectation that all the holes are in the right place and you can rely on Ford to make your other Ford parts fit. How much would a near perfect, late Model A frame cost in Texas? Out west, while cleaning out my candidate A frames the local meets showed price resistance at $400 for the best without running board brackets. and those with any weld went at $300. Small flaws like a frame horn a bit askew or less than 3/16" sag in a side rail not counted. A pink slip (title) is completely another thing. The "how much?" question was not intended to be a challenge but truly curious what you may be up against. Good Luck: Fred A
My budget is tight for sure. The frame has its issues, but I think I can make it work. I’m in no hurry and maybe you are correct I may waste some time on this one, but hope to make it work. It is square now, which took some work. I am a little further along than these photos as well. I’ll post more soon. This is my first 30s build so I will take all the feedback possible.
Rebuilding brakes and rear end is the next area. Fronts are from a 40. The rear end came with brakes as well. I wanted to keep spring over axle so I cut off the spring perches and will mount on top with Dave Havlir perches that bolt/weld in.
My pop came over month or so ago to help me pull out the banger motor. Sold it to a guy who was building a trog car. Great running banger with burns intake and B police head. This helped me some with my budget.
Kicked up the rear Tardel style with gussets and stacking the frame. And chopped down my front spring perches and painted them. I also turned up a F1 crossmember I will cut down and fit to the frame for the tranny mount.
You have gone over to the dark side with that crossmember. I have been on the side of caution on that one. You can search any comment on that. It did not work for me, but there are those that would tolerate the compromise that it entails. I love the stepped frame although I used actual Ford siderails to make the most sanitary step as it reduces the chance of weld failure by four. Back to my Sponge Bob quote: Good Luck With That! Fred A
I’ve read a lot about putting fish plates in to Add strength to the step as well which I think I will. The cross member seems to be such a back and fourth argument. I turned it up for so cheap the comparison to a K member was a no brainer to try at least. I’ve read that they seem to sit the trans too high creating issues. If it doesn’t work I’ll either buy Dave Havlir cross member which is a good price or try to turn up K member.
I bought a 32 K member without the legs for $45.00 at a garage sale. I tried an F1 and didn't like it.
You are doing great. For a traditional AV8, your unboxed model A frame is perfect. The F1 crossmember is perfect too, it makes the trans mount and pedal assy. easy and period correct. You are on the right track in my opinion. Here is a great thread on what you are doing, I use it for reference often. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-arnett-av8-roadster-build-dirtys-speed-shop.1081969/ Aaron
Thank you! I’m learning as I go but it’s coming together slowly. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks for sharing - hopefully more will chime in with their learning experience on what likely works best
Jumping ahead to sub frame/rails as I am finishing my chasis. Mainly trying to budget money. I know I can build a subframe/rails but it looks a bit over my head honestly so I’m thinking of buying. Would any of you recommend building or buying one of these two attached below. I see kits as well, with the rails and the crossections you can build as well. They are much cheaper then the full build ones as below. The red primer one is from brookville. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
I’m going to be extending my wishbone soon. Can anyone tell me why 37-41 rear radius rods are recommended for the extended pieces? I have my Model A radius rods still and was thinking of using them. I assume maybe the model a parts are not as strong? Or the shape is harder to make match? I’m trying to not split the bones. I know 32-34 is the best option but I’m a little light in the wallet. Any info is appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Greetings glorydime!...enjoy your thread, but can you post your photos full size?...those thumbnails are a pain in the A..!
And i found my wishbone answer here on the HAMB. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-a-10-32-wishbone.519077/page-3 I will full screen photos with my next update.
I don’t know what brand that other subfloor is, but I’d go with the Brookville. If you buy a subpar piece, you’re going to fight it the whole time as the subfloor is the foundation for everything else.
looking good, buddy welds the steel toes from his old work boots as air scoops on his backing plates...
Like the project. I'm also for the F1 cross member, I have one in my Tudor along with the pedals, works just fine. Keep on posting. Cliff Ramsdell
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