Right when I was hooking up the battery, customers smelled the blood in the water and stampeded us, so I didn't have a lot of time to check for a vacuum leak, but intend to tomorrow morning.
Same carb - same timing adjustment - same clutch but feels different with different flywheel. I'd check part numbers and interchange (Ford Barn?) But check the basics first. Make sure they are all in spec. That said, I wonder if the cam is off. Car had 500 miles and the engine looked like this before. Was it pulled to hot rod, or was it a dog the whole time and the guy upgraded, or was it a part out?
Another thought, head gasket blown just enough? I believe the flywheels are the same just the clutch goes from 9" to 11" if I remember right from car to truck. Be careful with which disk you use, some use caged and uncaged anti vibration springs.
I was in such a rush I forgot about lash in the timing train. Retimed it this morning and she's running like a top. It still isn't quite as grunty as it was before, but the other engine was probably just higher compression. Can't stall it and it pulls hills effortlessly so I'm happy with it. But there's a pinhole in the oil pan.
Glad it was a basic, simple fix. JB Weld the pan. https://www.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEB&search_query=jb+weld+oil+pan Radiator should be properly repaired, if possible. Lower operating temp and low or no pressure, but the loss causes expensive problems. As for high compression, that's probably one of the easiest car engines to swap a head on.
This one doesn't need to be fast. I'm content with less compression to spare the bearings. The radiator is a cheapo aluminum ebay unit that I guess one of my guys accidentally broke either while taking it off or putting it on. No big deal there either. Just small irritations. We know the engine runs good now so it's all just accessory shit from here... but might be a little while before it all gets done.
I've been enjoying my project for a while now and have been looking forward to doing more improvements, but it just developed a bad miss and rough running yesterday. Very annoying and I don't want to go backwards and patch up stuff I want to eventually remove. But that's what I'm faced with if I want to keep driving. Still pondering the choices.
pinhole? nailhole? spikehole! How hard is it to pull in the chassis? I've welded up pans on the engine. If possible, I'd pull them unless it's almost as much work as pulling the engine. Say a s10 v6 4x4
Honestly it's easier to do it in frame than to pull it lol. I think that's a rub hole from being moved around on the pan. I'm just trying to figure out if I need to split the engine off the transmission again to fix whatever's wrong with the clutch, unless nothing is wrong and it's supposed to have a feather light clutch, but that doesn't seem right.
You can pull the pan in the truck and work on the clutch via the inspection cover inside the truck cab.
The Jalopy Journal
