Just bought a 31 Model A that is stock down to the mechanical brakes. I also have a 1936 flathead engine and ****** that I would like to use in this car. Is it as easy as building new front motor mounts and coverting the radiator? I know I will need new carb linkage.
https://www.millworkshotrod.com/pro...ion-kit-ford-1928-1931?variant=39848204665008 Talk with these guys about what you need. They can help you out with individual parts or the entire kit. It's not an afternoon project, but does pretty much bolt together once you have the right stuff. ~Peter
You also need to support the rear of the transmission. I think I would start by looking at an original or reproduction ’32 K member. You need to mount the clutch and brake pedals (which were originally mounted on the Model A bellhousing). I would consider an original ’32 ***embly with the '32 K member and working from there. I attached a couple of pictures of the brakes on my ’32 mounted on a '32 K member and using stock '32 pedals. You need to support the wishbone which was attached to the transmission in the Model A. You will probably need a battery box. I ***ume you are planning on converting to hydraulic brakes? Of course, a new exhaust system. If the Model A is drivable, drive it for a while, you might get to like the banger. Charlie Stephens
Model As are difficult to motor swap but all the stuff is out there. The problem is its designed like a tractor with everything hung of the trans. Change the engine and trans and you need to change the suspension. change the suspension and you need to change the rear axle, change the rear axle and you need to change the brakes. Change the brakes and you need to relocate the brake mechanism. Its a lot of parts and a lot of expense. Why not be different and keep it as it is and enjoy its unique character. Lots of parts out there for the 4 cylinder.
Have you seen the old yankee kit I mentioned??? BTW I have a banger powered A couper and love it so not trying to disuade the OP from keeping that, jusr reposnding to his original quiery. Its never been easier to do what he wants to do.
I'm currently doing the same modifications to my 31 Tudor. See my build thread and skip to post 83. '37 21-stud/78-cased V8 transmission/'40 banjo. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/b4cdan-or-just-another-av8-build-thread.765768/ Feel free to DM me with questions.
Picking the Model A up today and will decide more of what I want to do after driving it. Ordered a 4" axle from Okie Joe this morning and have hydralic brake setup for the front and rear already. Been looking at S-10 trannny swaps for the last few hours which would make it a lot more user friendly as for driving.
Drive the stock Model A for a while and "double clutching" will become second nature. Charlie Stephens
I used my 30 Model A pickup for a daily driver for 20 years with a warmed over banger and it sat out in the driveway. It started when it was in the 20's' hauled all kinds of stuff, ran a stock transmission and like Charlie said double clutching is second nature. I still have a stock 29 Coupe and a flathead powered 30 Sport Coupe, stock Model A's are good drivers if you don't mind running 45-50 mph
Had a stock 30 Model A when I was 15-16 yrs old and well aware of the double clutching and the mechanical brakes. Ran into the back of a brand new mustange in 1965 because I couldn't stop in time. The woman gets out and screams " you better have good insurance" and I replied that I didn't even have a drivers license. Looks like you and the privious owner of my car have the same taste in green paint. Picture on way home today. When I went to buy it today, it turns out to have hydralic brakes.
Thanks for the kind words! We've been having great success with our AV8 kit. We tried to make the process as easy as possible and cost effective while still putting out the highest quality made in the USA parts. https://www.millworkshotrod.com/pro...2&_sid=8f278240d&_ss=r&variant=39848204665008
Took your advise and drove it uptown ( 10 miles ) to meet my son and granddaughters at the Dairy Queen. Got in it to leave and the starter just spun but wouldn't engage. Walked accross the street and bought a $14 hammer ( cheapest they had ) and tapped on the starter. Didn't help any. Got to ride in the rollback tow truck back home and $150.00 lighter. He didn't charge for milage. SBC's or SBF's have been on my mind the last few days.
Starter changing is easier and faster than engine swapping. Just kidding. If you bought it to modify, get busy with it.
Plan is to build a new frame with all new running gear, engine , ******, wheels tires , brake lines, ect. and switch body and sheetmetal over once once rolling chasis is complete. I'll leave the stocker running and driving until time for the switch over.
Took starter out and saw a bolt had come off of the bendix. Took starter to local repair shop and told them I needed a new bendix even though a new bolt would have been all I needed. They took starter completly apart and told me that all that was needed was a new bendix. The bendix is held on with one bolt. Got a quote of $175.00 to replace bendix. New bendix online with free shipping was about $30.00 So they wanted to charge me $145.00 labor to loosen one bolt and slide the new bendix on and tighten the bolt. Can't stand the 4x4 stance but did install 16" wires with 5:50x16 and 7:00x 16's
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