Hey Guys. I am after some measurements for the 1931 Model A Pickup Bed. The improved one not the earlier one.
The other three measurements needed are the width of the fold, the width of the floor and the depth of the sides from the floor to the fold. Any help is appreciated.
Been messing with a '33 bed that I was going to shorten and run on '32 rails... Almost all the re-pop parts I see listed run from '31 widebed to '37 pick up bed... except for the head board and the bed length/ beadwork... If '33 measurements are cool ? … i'll shovel a path out to it, bring my camera, tape measure, clip board and a sharpie...
That’s appreciated, but there is no need to go out in the snow unless you have to. It will be a while before I start fabricating the bed.
Mack Products in MO makes all the new parts for the pickup beds,even the short version.An email to them might get you the measurements you need. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...roducts.com/&usg=AOvVaw03_5fICPh2OW4UI054Et8H
Warm rain for 2 days, snow dropped 6" … no shoveling... bed measurements are from a '33 bed... #1 angled flange = 4.25" … #3 hight = 14" … #2 width = 45.25" … HIH.
More snow melted... outside measurement from bedside bottom up to the angled flange, '33 truck = 19.5"
Thanks for the fresh measurements, it’s really pushing me along to get this underway. I made up a paper pattern about a week ago and finished trimming the wheel wells yesterday. The pickup bed will be mildly tubbed to suit the Roadster/Coupe fenders I have. The coupe/roadster fenders are stock but the pickup fenders were more narrow, hence the need for tubs. The tubs will basically be the same as coupe/roadster wheel wells.
Hey Guys. A long over due update. I was able to get measurements and patterns from a local Rodder’s 34 Pickup last week and after modifying them accordingly, I fabbed up this test piece out of scrap. The reason I have done it in halves is due to the size of the panel being to hard to run through my bead roller. A number of mistakes were made, but these will not be repeated when I do the other side. The biggest mistake was making the beads too deep, the extra material drawn into the beading process leads to distortion of the overall panel. The solution is the pre stretch the panel first by running it through the English Wheel. Then to use one less turn on the handle of the bead roller. An important note, the test material is 19 gauge not my preferred 18 gauge and as such, it’s more prone to distortion. Being a test bed, I’m using what material I have at hand as I will be making several different variations until I settle on the one I like.
I had these dies machined especially for Model A’s years ago, the one I used for this job is on the right.
I’m going to make a couple of prototypes, one a 31 and the other a 32, out of the same scrap sheet I used for this one. I also picked up a 1.2 x 2.4 sheet of 18 gauge cold rolled steel and once I have tested out the two beds for rigidity, I will begin work on the proper bed. I have calculated that by doing the sides in two halves, I will be able to get a full bed out one half of the sheet and a quarter of the other half. The stake bed pockets will be constructed from four lengths 2x2 Rectangular Hollow Section with a 2mm wall thickness. The tailgate will be constructed from a combination of 20x20mm Rectangular Hollow Section with a 1.6 mm wall thickness and 18 gauge cold rolled steel. The leading panel will be constructed from a combination of 18 gauge cold rolled steel and 20x20 Rectangular Hollow Section with a 1.6mm wall thickness. This is one of the patterns I am using to test the fit around the wheel arches.
At this stage, I am undecided on what combination I will be using for a floor. The 16 gauge original is too large to run through my bead roller without doing it in halves, lengthways. The other option will be to use locally sourced hardwood lumber in combination with screw in cover strips. I may try out each option and settle on which one is the most visually appealing.
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