I modified some F1 shock mounts to allow my fenders to clear. Not much room to work with spring perches right in the road and the hoop steering arm.
Thanks. Coming from you guys that means a lot. I don't have any pictures just yet but I scored some parts for the flathead. A nice set of 8BA rods and std crank with a single wide groove pulley. It's coming along.
Thanks I just received my 8BA crank and noticed the clean out holes were 5/8 and not the 3/8 I was expecting. So I did a search on the forum and found it could be a Mercury 4.00 stroker. The counter weights measure 6.00 and the journal offset is 2.0 x 2 = 4.00. What a deal for $250. 8 very nice clean rods $75. Just need a cam and I am a set to rebuild. More searching this forum for building info from wiser persons than myself. Thanks again View attachment 4995269 View attachment 4995269
I guess its a good thing I didn't buy pistons although I don't know what it will take to clean up the bores maybe 3.312????? I have one cylinder with a very deep score but no cracks. What does that make a 287???
Finishing up the little details. I went thru my stach of throttle linkages and realized all were too long..the distance between the gas pedal and the throttle linkage. I decided I wanted two mounting points because the 3X Strombergs are a little hard on the linkage wanting to always twist it. I just ended up shorting it and welding back together. Cut an access hole in the firewall and the proper length linkage and we are good to go.
Dug my 34 pedals out and disassemble them. The bushing for each pedal were completely worn out. I purchased a rebuild kit. It comes with a new shaft, 2 new bronze pedal bushings 1 wave washer and dowel pin. I modified the brake pedal like the Tardel book by cutting off the MC arm and welded it 180 degs from were it was. It will end up right where the grease fitting is/was. It now will allow a 1940 MC to mount behind the pedal asm. The clutch pedal needs nothing other than a new bushing. Reassemble with a good grease and bolt into the 1932 crossmember. Here the pedals will need to be adjusted with a hot wrench to center between steering column.
I purchased one of the mc brackets that bolt to the back of the 32 k members. I didn't like how low it mounted the mc. So I cut it up and welded it directly to the 34 pedal bracket. The mc will be bolted from the backside of the crossmember thru drilled holes into the pedal bracket. They were bolted together here to check the pushrod alignment.
The floor was clearanced for the pedals and a removable cover was added to cover up the original steering location hole in the firewall. A lot better driving position for me. I found a great material for taking up the space between the original drop column and the smaller F1 column. It hold the column very tightly. I might start selling them if there is an interest.
I took the plunge today. I bolted the subframe down and welded in the crossmembers. Checking width and square corner to corner I welded all the floor pans in. I think I will start with the cowl and work my way backwards. I left the rear crossmember loose just in case I have to move the quarters a bit to hold the door gap. A lesson I learned on another build with huge door gaps. No fun to fix.
Good choice that you screwed the axle cover in place. Might make something easier in the future. I on the other hand was welding silly..... And i still wonder if i should of did that. Time will tell.
Thanks guys for the nice thumbs up Yeah I stich welded everything. Think about it when you try to take a spot welded panel about. I use seam sealer underneath if you worry about making the joint water tight. Next time!
I reskined the cowl side using the original frame work. I laid out the spot welds in the same place. Before welding I should have checked the belt line alignment with the door and hinge location. I lucked out. They aligned perfectly. Although the lower stanchions do not. After market part adjustment is required.
Since my roadster is a late 31 I am using the indented firewall. This one is in very good condition with no stress cracks on the lower feet. The mounting bolt holes helped with the alignment and the subframe extension rivet holes. Also adding the dash rail helped a lot in adding some stiffness to the cowl. It dropped on the frame and bolted up nicely.
Although the lower stanchions do not. After market part adjustment is required.[/QUOTE] No problem. Weld the holes up! Position where they need to be and drill and countersink. Repeat...
Today was a big day for the project. I have some original doors to hang with repo hinges. First thing I noticed was the hardware is different from the door to hinge than cowl to hinge. You guessed it I didn't have any 5/16 fine flatheads. I assumed they would be the same... So I used some cap screws knowing I wouldn't be able to close the door. But they can be test fitted anyway. It already appears the top gap is going to be too wide and the bottom too tight. Both sides are the same amount. It looks to me the offset of the top hinge is too much. I am getting used to this aftermarket adjustment. Oh yeah order some screws first!
After looking at the miss alignment closer it appears the cowl to subframe angle is also incorrect. The bottom of the door hits the door sill at the rear. I think the cowl needs to be shimmed up in the rear Some. That will raise the rear of the door up to run more parallel to the door sill. Pics coming.
Looks great so far. Good job! I remember heating and bending the pedals for my coupe- seemed to take forever to get them right where I wanted them.
Here is where I need some help. I read all the posts about alignment of the doors here but my concern is the big gap I see along the door bottom and the sub frame. It doesn't look right. It is as if the cowl is too wide as it sets on the sub frame. Any ideas?
The Jalopy Journal
