. just looking at page 2 pix... could the top hinges be upside down, [or on the wrong side] ? try flipping one, reinstall the pin and see if it closes the upper gap...
Nice sheet metal work here, you're doing it with 'authority'! Easy to follow along, thanks for the pics. Subrails to quarters fastening is what I'm looking forward to. Please show details, seems like everyone just leaves them mostly...'unattached'.
This brighted up my day. My painter finished up blasting my wheels and painting them. All original down to the caps. Wish Coker tires were not so expensive.
Well everyone's advice worked on the drivers side. It wasn't quite as bad as the passenger's side. 1. Increased the cowl spacer from .75 to 1.125. 2. Cut both hinges to bend them easily to even the door gap. I will weld back up when finished. 3. Added .125 spacer under the cowl a-pillar. Looks pretty good. I am happy. Now on to the other side.
Looking good! You should see the mess that is my roadster door hinges. Appears to be several extra screws. My doors close, but I can see out the passenger side when it is closed. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thanks! I saw that in an earlier post, so I was looking at mine, and I am just not sure how it would go on. I will look into it more, though. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I rough clamped the quarter panels in place today. Door gaps needed more adjusting by raising the cowl yet again. But it's getting close. The door bottom from the inside need to be perfectly parallel or the quarter panel to door height will be off as well as the gap at the top and overlap at the bottom. I will show a detailed welding process for Mike on how I see it by folding the flanges to the subframe and welding.
The back end is looking good. For those who notice things like I do the license plate is not crooked it warped a little. Needs some rusty screws like the top.
You are very welcome! Now on to future ideas. Paint... I personally love barn find finishes. But we all can't own a barn find with perfect patina. Case in point and I know this is a touchy subject let's put the real/fake issue aside for the moment. I have some test panels to choose from. First one pitted metal with a hint of original black paint. The second is going with a original blue paint wash on the body sparingly of coarse and black fenders/aprons with a black wash done the same way. What do you like better? No matte black add ins.
The blue looks really cool! But I am thinking maybe the first choice would look better with the black washed fenders. Sorry, I am no help. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I vote black. If you were actually painting it, id say blue. But the "barnfind" look , i think black will look abit more "real". JMO
I started on the trunk lid yesterday. It has the typical rot at the inside bottom. I wasn't going to spring another $300 for a repo inside panel so I decided to fix my rusty one. I used 1.25" 16ga angle and welded it in with a fabbed up latch housing. Not original but certainly not all that noticeable inside the trunk. It sure stiffened up the lid. The outer skin was butt welded. No folded flange.