Hi all sorry if it’s a long winded post. Building a 32 5w coupe in Australia and about to start the process on the ch***is build. I have an original frame but need to box it out which means access to body mounting holes is difficult once done. The body builder wants 10mm plate welded to the frame in the spots of the original holes and also 2 extra locations each side does anyone have a diagram as to which holes are the original mounting holes the frame seems to have extra holes so I plan on filling up any unneeded holes and just keeping what’s needed for the build not running fenders so thinking I’m just going to need body mounting holes and radiator mounting any other advice will be greatly appreciated
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I’d highly recommend drilling 1.5” holes in the boxing plates to access the nuts instead of tapping them in the frame. Makes for easier adjustments.
The body builder is the one who asked me to weld the 10mm plates in for him to drill and tap exactly as required when he mounts the body up. I guess that allows him to make sure it all lines up spot on
I did see this but can't find a link to the original as every time I try and expand it the photo pixelates and I can't make out the writing
I have the Wescott ch***is drawing which some folks say is not accurate. I checked it against my OG ch***is and there were some minor variations. DeuceDaddyDon on here sells the original blueprint from Ford if you want the best answer. Try a search for the Wescott drawing but if you can't find it I could copy mine and mail it to you. See how you go. BTW my ch***is builder welded tapped plates in all the right spots before he boxed my ch***is and I still had to "adjust" some body holes.
This is a actual Ford FoMoCo blueprint mine is a poster size, & laminated now. I pick up around late 80s
Just as Swifty says, you should have the possibility of further adjustment. I think it would be beneficial whether the body is steel or gl***.
My self have done a few ways , Welded plate then tap , witch requires Body off & on @ least one time, Caged nuts , pick those wisely for adjustment & Quality, I have also used just a compleat sub rail as pattern, & used that subrail , Best I think on a original frame is to leave a little half moon opening on @ top of boxing plate, so you can use box wrench with Flange nuts , Just drop nut into box of wrench & hold your mouth right, If you drop nut fish out with magnet, If going to run running boards I just used 3/16 bar stock , with a heavy tack weld , then go back & tap as needed , I used 1/4 bolts , & if fenders , same thing bar stock drill & tap after adjusting , You will learn as you go
I had a 5W for 20 years. The frame was not boxed. They did not need to be. The boxing is really due to the flex found in roadsters. Nothing will fix the roadster but a real X member. My roadster frame is not boxed but it does have a center X member. I can park diagonally in a ditch and the doors work fine. There is no need to box a 5W frame but a lot of reasons not to. 1, it warps the frame. 2, hard to bolt the body on. 3, hard to run electric lines, fuel lines and brake lines. 4, no access for paint
I agree and disagree about boxing, It will depend on what engine combo suspension using , Torque & traction. For most just box @ K member points , & good K member , Not that expensive of a upgrade. Mine I box all of , I switch between engine & transmissions , most all are Over 570 tq , Afew ch***is / frames triangular 4 like , & another Drag 4 link , wish bone & tire.
First question to me is........are you using an original body or an aftermarket body? There may be some variation in the locations depending on which you have. I would make the plates a little larger than what you think you need just incase you need to adjust the hole locations some. I'd also drill and tap them before boxing if that's possible for you. That keeps the chips out of the inside of the frame where they become a source of rust. Also, if you can...I would sit the body on the frame and mark where the hole locations are.....Then remove the body and compare to the drawing. In the end, the body holes are exactly where the holes need to be.
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