Hello Auliz First of all, hello from Winnipeg ,Canada..home of the Jets! I have read through most all of this thread and have to congratulate you on you craftsmanship. A very well thought out and executed build. Very well done!
Thank You Sir ! Finally last week we bored all cylinders, pressed inliners and saturday bored and honed to right dimension. Now I have round 100% cylinders, clearance is 8/100mm. Tomorrow I cut inliner from that chamber area and start to wash parts. Crank is grinded too. Main journals are OK, I have done nothing. Rod journals are now 020 undersize. Clearance is max of that size.... (there is min and max where you can grind journals. New bearings arrive from rockauto. Aulis
“ I cut inliner “ confused me. - I believe we would say “ deck the block “. Not a cylinder liner expert. Anybody?
Yes, my english is not so good. pictures are tell all.... Today I "open" block chambers as You can see inliner/sleeve need to shape. Next I need to install two inliner/sleeve. Im built one extra flathead during next winter. I have new Scat 304cid stroke kit, and other extra parts on stock. Ferguson FE-35 tractor inliners are good size for these big bore flatheads. Now I keep two of those (30euro, 35usd ea) on stock and have also smaller inliners for smaller piston flatheads. This week need to get engine ready. We still have warm good weather here, so need to get few hundred kilometers , I want to see that finally engine is ok
Pockets done, washed block, crank, oilpan.... Intake runners are big. I havent measure volume, but size is 2" x 1,45". exhaust side has been done big too... over 1,6" size "holes". Sometimes somebody has worked rather much with this block. Aulis
Auliz, your English is a 1000 times better than my Finnish! Which is just like all your other skills compared to mine! Please keep sharing with us your projects and your incredible “I can do this” mindset. Thank you!
Thank You Sirs, I wonder how long I have interest to built cars... I hope years more, because next year Im 60y old and I try to slow down working and spend more time in garage, homeworks, rest..... Today I had too hurry day (dayjob; sell bearings and power transmission stuff), but while I made few things: - one valve, which C-clip was open, was damaged. I made new manley proflo valve (cylinder nr 5 ex. valve). I use Chevy small block valves, I cut every valve approx 0,1" (2,5mm). - same valve´s lifter adjust.bolt was damaged, twisted too. I had one new adjust bolt, which I changed and fixed lifer with lathe. - Cam was rather OK. That one cyl 5 ex. cam need to fix before Installed it. - Crank installed too, timing gear, rear cover where is gear which transfer power to oilpump. - Waterpumps are installed. I changed another pair. Another of those old pumps were stack. Normally those are leak, but this time water has "washed" bearing clean and it has been rost. Later I need to open that pump, change "goal sealing" , grind surfaces and change bearing. I dont remember if I can use normal flathead waterpump bearing or is it so that need to use different bearing for "two row" pump. I have fixed those two row pumps, but that is so many years ago that cant remember how I did it. Tomorrow I can install alum. flywheel, timing cover, lifters, valves,..... When I get those new 020 undersize rod bearings, I can install pistons. I hope get ready before weekend, we have cruising here on Friday evening. It would be nice to drive there. I forgot mention that 3rd crank main bearing cap was crack. I welded and grinded it. Its that area where oilpan is fitted. I use ferronickel55 additive + tig + argon --> when weld castiron. You can test, that is best way to weld greycasting, nodular cast iron (ductile).. Aulis Nb. same time Im washing that "black shit" after oval and loose cylinders were bleed. Same time when install valves, I refine valve&seat with paste.
It´s a long way to the top, if you wanna rod.... I have get something ready in garage. Valves are installed. Also flywheel is there. Timing gear, cover and stromberg distributor found their places. Tomorrow arrive rod bearings. American shipment is somewhere (I hate FEDEX, which is never top quality shipping company here in Europe, maybe same in US?). Today I called to our company warehouse. One warehouse worker was drive 1km to Us-Parts and bought me one set bearings. I want to get engine ready tomorrow and if weather is OK, we are going to Cruising here in Seinäjoki city. Oskar told me that he is come to help me after schoolday. Oskar get his new yearly school pictures. Next summer he has Drag Racing license and he is compete 5-6competition. Im interested to see how he is develop and get good experience to further years, if he has still interest to race. Anyway all functions are teaching. Now cylinders are good, perfect. I tested few cylinder top Ring. Ring ends clearance is 0.16" - 0.17". Aulis Nb. Runners are huge. I have never done as big runners than this engine has. in runner top is 2" x 1.60"... Valves are 1.60" both side in and ex.
Regarding your assessment of Fedex; it's the same here in the US. As far as we know, the only requirement for employment at Fedex is the inability to get a better job.
I agree. I learn something everyday, but sometimes feels that when more age, forgot what have learn week or month ago... Yesterday I worked 10hours with car and now its running. Still many problems but finally problems are solved (earlier or later) , if not give up. Oskar comes direct from school to help me afternoon (yes he is not drive anymore Trek bicycle. Honda Monkey is only one.... I hope he is not going fat when not bicycle anymore.... too many of Finnish Young girls and boys are "heavy stuff" now a days. - bearings from Rockauto are not arrive. Thanks Fedex. - Thursday afternoon I called to our company warehouse, boys bought me bearings from US-Parts Oy, which is located approx. 1/4 mile from our warehouse. They send those fast post, bearings arrived 7.30 friday morning. - There was only 283-327 bearings, so I need to lathe those. I made holder, cut every pair 2mm (narrowed). I use this case CB 745P 020 bearings. Too wide for flathead without modification Oil pressure is not very high but its OK. Im not sure if overflow valve is bleed,.. or somewhere else. Now Im 100% sure there is right clearance bearings (rod, main, cam),.. all plugs are on their places..... Oil pressure is stabil but not 50psi when engine cold.... OK, not need 50psi pressure, 25-30 is enough, but i want to get answer why pressure is lower... Now I have very low price 10W30 oil there before I change and put there high zink kendall or lucas I was changed water pumps because another 2row pump bearing was stack. Now another side is leak... so I need to change RH pump again. We drive yesterday, but had problems. Waterpump leaks and throw water on stromberg distributor,... not started anymore. Today I opened and changed cap. Another thing is too much fuel. I have # 46 jets (4pc) there. when engine is started (idle) it is work fine. When drive, engine is nearly die, spark plugs are black.... I need to get smaller Jets or buy new Stromberg carbs. Those what I use are "china shit". I have opened several times, all are OK there. Maybe powervalves are bleed when Im driving..... too much fuel. jets, powervalve..... fuel pressure is 3psi , that is perfect. When engine is running few minutes here or drive on street Y-sling below carbs and supercharger case are very very cold, so there is extra high vacuum in carbs and if carbs are not good, those are "wee" fuel there and result is black candles.,... I ordered Baseball jackets (for me and Oskar) from Germany. 75euro each, wool and leather. We need team jackets when Youngman is start to learn long long "dragracing driver" school. A
Hello Saturday I opened carbs, I think those looks good quality, but power valves have big holes and pin middle of power valve is loose. In picture "China power valve is Right side". I changed those power valves to original old 97 stromberg stuff. Jets are 4 x 46. I dont have smaller. Maybe powervalves were bleed, need to test drive. Engine started very good when changed distributor cap. water pump leaks and throw water little there and You can see in pic result..... Im gonna built seal to stromberg distributor. Engine runs great (in garage) Im ready for testdrive after changed RH waterpump. but but but.... problem is smoke when keep 2000-3000rpm blue smoke. I have done all my tricks and kicks.... Is it this old race cylinderblock, is it supercharger,.... I closed my garage doors yesterday and installed bomb under foundation... The word is free ! Tell me. Now cylinders are round and cylinder>< piston clearance is 8-9/100mm Just what piston manufacturer recommend. Aulis
Since the installation dimensions of the bearing and piston are within specifications. I would look around the periphery. If the smoke is blue, the engine is drawing oil into the combustion chamber. This only bypasses the piston rings or valve guides. I once wrote about whether it would be possible to run the engine without a supercharger to rule out the possibility that the cause lies in the supercharger. Is the crankcase ventilation working properly? Is the manifold sealing the valley properly? Is it possible that oil is being drawn into the combustion chambers via it? These are my humble ideas; don't give up. Regards, Harald
Thanks ! I have solved smoking problem. I removed supercharger, now works good, car runs excellent, no smoke. Morning I installed vacuum/boost gauge to oilpan. I block breather. I knew that if there is vacuum, that is not good thing. No vacuum gauge needle didnt move when had lower and upper RPM. Next I removed plug from ford original cast iron intake manifold. I installed there brass plug with outlet. Gauge show me result what i was think. Idling = 0.6 bar vacuum 2000-3000Rpm = 1.0 bar vacuum !!! That vacuum suck oil anything! Supercharger which is awesome condition, is too small for this big flathead. Originally when McCulloch had ad. (1936), they promised that this first 85F36 -centrifugal supercharger --> 1932-36 ford 80/85hp come up to 120-125hp. 221cid small engine get easily 30% more power. This supercharger need to be installed on normal flathead engine. In my case, big flathead (long stroke & big bore) with race cam, big valves, big runners, is too much for this supercharger. This 1st centrifugal McCulloch is good for 221cid, 239cid original engines. looks good, little boost. Im gonna sell this, I have opened it, checked all and same time changed bearings, seals... I have had earlier McCulloch M-40 which has bigger blower case. It was also vacuum when car was just run idle, but that bigger supercharger gives 0,15bar boost when 3000rpm. Aulis Now I have driven 5-10km. One carburetor now installed and works fine. Now vacuum is lower and more lower when more RPM. Just ordered 2 x 2bbl intake.
From Sweden, I has also a 5W and following your thread. Your block look great, is it a Merc 40/41 ? Portings is really nice and the 1.6” valves is cool. I has a equal 41 block that was pro ported in LA back then but still has the 1.5” valves. It was sonic tested good but leaked in 1 cylinder and was repair by weld in a crack from exhaust to cylinder ( not fun ) but I needed get that block… On the waterpumps, I bought my ( Ford logo ) from a guy in Florida, he rebuilds them with better impellers. -I has his contacts.
Thuesday is done. Today I make some changes. Installed new front oil galley plug. Old was basic plug, remembered that there must be installed this "shouldered" type plug. Also removed two row water pumps. I have 2pc good condition LH pump, 2pc not so good RH pump. Another RH pump is leak and another is stack. Yesterday I ordered new two row pump bearing and rebuilt kit. I decided that I make this engine naturally aspirated. I have few dennis carpenter sold water pumps on stock, so I removed those frame mounting brackets and painted. Tomorrow morning I can install those. Also made 0,7mm gasket to stromberg electric distributor. I have notice that water is go in there very easily and some other rodders are note that same thing. 2 x 2bbl intake is ordered. Early morning I drive to my friends place 15miles from here. He had few of those oil plugs, I need to order couple from Third gen automotive.... I wrote down dimensions, so maybe I lathe one or two. I have that another engine project. Im gonna make it ready during this winter (304cid). Aulis Note: Yesterday I wrote that McCulloch supercharger is not work with big flathead. That can be true. Next flathead, which I put together during this autumn, I install supercharger back. I make intake runners bigger (original 1932-36 castiron intake) and I use big crank pulley. There is more space to use big pulley because that engine Im gonna use Cirello magneto + 8ba style timing cover. This 5w coupe engine I have lather crank pulley rather small , because it need to do when use Harman&Collins magneto. Aulis
I ordered 2row waterpump rebuilt kits (coal seal, bearing....). Today early morning when walked home from Gym, i walk to my house across the yard. I found many bearings, seals in box. What we learn: Memory is full or it leaks another side of head..... Now I have nearly all stuff to my another flathead. I found those plates with gear which comes between cam and oilpump. I decided to built another flathead with McCulloch. I use 5" lower pulley. Now I have under 4". That bigger pulley gives very much more Circumferential speed. Centrifugal supercharger needs that. Looks very powerfully with one 2bbl carb . Runs good, feels good, 3.54:1 R&P is OK, but better is 3.25:1 like I have in my roadster. No oil or water leaks. New 1row waterpumps are installed after painted yesterday. Aulis
Hello Yes I did. After that I found 2 set from my own stock. Didn´t remember that I have bought those 7-10y ago... Yesterday i made 1step lights wiring. I use new 30´s ford wiring sets. Im not sure what year those are made for, but good basic set for this car. I havent connect generator and regulator. I need to see first where generator is located after 2 x 2bbl intake is installed. Front park lights need to install and connect, rear WWII landing lights need to change from one wire bulb to two wire bulb. Now I have there 24V /21W bulbs. Just not too bright light when have 12V system. I drove day before yesterday to tire company. They balanced all tires. Yesterday evening I drove 200-250km. Works fine. Still smoke, but now its black/grey smoke. One small carb is not give enough air to engine. It´s ok when drive carefully, but when try to give more rev... not 100%.... I want to learn all engines I have. Its good to drive and learn... Today I arrange my garage, after that lift car on stands and continue with wirings... Aulis
sorry my english is not so good. Im not professor or technical doctor.... just basic car builder. I wrote shortly, to correct misunderstandings. This engine: - too big runners - big torque cam (big lobe, not too much decrees, lift .375...) - intake orig 1932-36 small runners, small two carb holes for one orig. 2bbl. - very high vacuum when engine running idle (0,5kpa) - when more rpm vacuum is going higher up to 0,9 - 1,0 kpa) , normally when there is no "bottle necks intake side" vacuum is going smaller. -when so high vacuum IN. side -> engine suck oil where it get it. Lifter valley (inside and outside of valve quide) and little thru piston rings too. Now less, after I have new all around right dimension cylinder inliners there. -Bottle necks ( intake manifold runners, only one 2bbl hole between supercharger and intake manifold)... -One thing more: Original 1932 - 36 engine has bigger 1row crank pulley. I have smaller 3.5" pulley after I have lathe it small. Reason why done like that: Harman Collins magneto is not fit there if big pulley and if want to adjust magneto (turn LH or RH) need to get little more extra space there. If have original big pulley or this small, I have lost 30-35% circumference !!! that decrees very much Supercharger net RPM ! This engine still smokes (now smoking is dark, grey, maybe little blue) because I have still orig. small intake, 1 x 2bbl carb... carb is not work right when too much vacuum. 0,5 is OK, but carb is not make work when vacuum is very high. and my carbs are "china 97 copy" . Normally engine vacuum is going smaller when trottle is opened more. I have now Nr 46 jets there, small hole power valve and when drive on the road for example 40mph and push spoon more down, black smoke behind car --> carb is drop fuel, too much vacuum, too small runners (intake manifold runners are only 50% of cylinder block intake runners). This old race-engine needs more intake runner and carb surface area. 2 x 2bbl can be OK, maybe 3 x 2bbl is better. 2 x Big 97 carb can be OK, but if other intake side surface area is "bottle neck" big carbs are not solve problem. This is new for me too, this engine has biggest In flow I have never had. Maybe more race style cam with higher lift, more decrees and smaller lobe would slow flow down in normal driving use, but I like what engine feels now. When have more intake surface area (bigger runners), plenium area, 2 x 2bbl carbs with own 2 x 2bbl holes direct to intake, I think engine is OK. Then Jets, powervalves can be changed, and I can tune up engine. Now even 2 x 46 jets, engine push out dark smoke when push more spoon. Carburetor is now working wrong, maybe drops fuel in.... Sunday morning. I take 5km walking around quiet city. 1st sunday we dont open coffee place. One week more and my 4years career with coffee place is over. Im so fucking tired of it. OK, it gives money, but Im never been rich even work 24/7....so my Oskar son mother is continue next 1st of April with that coffee place. I built cars, little racing, homeworks and try to read engine "smoke messages", read colour of spark plugs and tune up engines right way I wrote this, because some people are send me pm and I know I cant explain what I see and think and of course talk with my old racing friends. There own opinion comes up after all....
Hahaa,... every night 7-8hours. Evening 90-10dec Celsius sauna, after that You sleep very very deep. I have drive daily. Test´n´tune before driving season is over. Yesterday made wirings. Now I have there 10w park lights inside of headlamps. I drilled holes and installed those pulp bottoms to reclectors. Same time changed basic toggle on/off -headlight whitch to old real light switch with fuse. Front park lights are turned off when headlighs are turned on. Tomorrow I install front turn signals and start to make wirings. Front I can leave orignal bottoms (1wire). Front turnsignals are Grimes WWII stuff, made year 1943. Rear lights have now 1wire bottoms, those I need to change to 2wire bottoms. After 2weeks arrive 2 x 2bbl intake. After that I can make generator wirings when i see where generator is finally located. I have one old original "on cylinder head" -bracket. Today arrrived one small shipment from USA. 2 set main caps, 1set main bolts, one crank real seal retainer. My another flathead (304cid) is slowly get all missing parts. Still need to order cam gear (1949-53), one SS valve, cylinder heads, adjust lifters. Im gonna make 5" diameter crank pulley and install that McCulloch supercharger on that engine. I port intake manifold and supercharger outlet. Im rather sure that supercharger is working good, if get more Rpm.... I have there more free space because Im gonna use 1949-53 style timing cover + Tom Carillo 426hemi style magneto. Today 4.30 early morning I drove to open my coffee place. I tested how lights are work when dark. 55w halogen is too bright for old style car, but good when dark outside. Daytime can use only those 10w park lights Aulis
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