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1932 Chevy subframe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chopper526, Dec 8, 2010.

  1. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    I'm working on a '32 Chevy that was originally channeled, I want to put it back up in the frame and use metal tubing as the subframe/sills and skeleton. I will probably use 1" square tubing for most of the skeleton, does anybody have an idea what to use for the sills that sit inside the rockers? They look to be about 3" high which would make for a pretty big piece of tubing. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help.
     
  2. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    There are a few here that did some early Chevys, they will spot this thread.

    I never did a Chevy, just a 30 Mopar and 32 Nash, and both car bodies used 1-1/2" wooden sills. I redid steel in same 1.5 because the way the rocker needed to fit onto the sill, and still have the floor be in the right height. One car I used 1.5 square the other car worked out better with 1.5 tall x 2 wide. You just need to see what would work the best for that body.

    nash pics below. One pic shows the bare rocker sitting on the 1.5 tall metal for set up.

    Depending on the shapes of the frame and body is how you plan where to put the sills. this car is a convertible sedan so strength was an issue. I ran double sills, one for the rocker and the outer edges of the body, and a second sill to sit right on top of the frame. You can do whatever fits best on your car.

    This car had an all-steel cowl with feet brackets to sit on the sill...that's was another reason to use the orig 1.5 sill.
     

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  3. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Thanks for the reply F&J. Those pics are helpful. You are right about the sill falling into the right line with the floor, and that seems to be my problem; from bottom to top of my rocker, where the floor is, is 3". It just seems like an awful large tube (3" x 4"?) I will need to fabricate the sill. Thanks again!
     
  4. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    The 3 inch seems pretty unusual, but I never did a Chevy. I have no clue why it needed to be that tall.

    See if you can contact "Mink" on hamb. His car is a 32 Chevy and I think he did some steel work. Just do an "advanced search" and put his name in the correct box. When it pulls up his posts, just click on his name to get the option to send him a PM.

    Or, put up a pic or two; I would think a Chevy guy would chime in with some advice and maybe even put up some pics of their steel work.
     
  5. F&J.. I really like the way you built the sub-frame in the 2nd and 3rd pics. The way you created somewhat parallel outer subrails is a real novel way to do this. And as I can tell it creates a very strong way to tie in the upper body pillars! Awesome man! More pics!
     
  6. I don't know if this will help, but this is how I did the subrails in my '34. They are 1"x2" tubing and mount to the frame with 3/4" wood blocks to raise them enough to line up with the rockers. That's almost 2". Maybe yours had something similar?
     

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  7. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    The structure front to back is 2 inch by 2 inch layed on top of the frame all of the other structure for the sub floor is 3/4 inch, except a few places I miight have gone larger. personal preference:)
     

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    Last edited: Mar 31, 2011
  8. junkyardroad
    Joined: Oct 3, 2007
    Posts: 410

    junkyardroad
    Member
    from Colorado

    Here's what I made for my 31

    [​IMG]
     
  9. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Great help from everyone. Great ideas. Thanks!! Ghost, I think I see what you are talking about, now. The subframe is 2" x 2" and lays on top of the frame, the tubing that lies behind the rocker panels is 3/4" welded off of the subframe, right?
     
  10. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member


    You guessed right about wanting strong pillars. This car has very long doors and a very tiny rear quarter. The original wood did not hold up to slamming the heavy doors.

    I was worried right from the start about if I could beef it up enough as not to shake the rear body when closing a door.

    I did make a mistake on using too heavy of a wall on the tubing. I took what they had in stock that day, .120 wall, I should have custom ordered maybe 16 gauge wall. But it's just some extra weight I guess.


    I did not have to put much steel in the doors; they are strong like this. The door is so long that there are TWO inside door handles, the rear one is for rear p***engers to get out.


    Also had to design a folding top frame and it had to all fold into one neat pile.
     

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  11. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    Right and once you get it all supported you can go back and fill all the voids.
     

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  12. F&J...Ghost28.....you guys are master metal sculpters! F&J is that called a "5 p***enger convertible coupe"?
     
  13. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    Nice looking solid structure.
     
  14. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    I hope I can come up with something that looks half this good! Looking at this picture it looks like the subframe rails are slightly recessed from the rocker panels, or are they flush to one another? Thanks. And thanks for all the help!
     
  15. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    I have taken a thousand pictures of this car since I got it in September, problem is, the size wouldn't fit this site. So, until I figure out how to fit them on here, here are a couple I took real quick. This car was all together when I bought it off of a friend of mine. He built it in the late '60's early '70's. He drove and raced it until about 1985 and it has been sitting, pretty much, since then. This is my first street rod and I am looking for any ideas, thoughts or criticisims. Thanks guys.
     

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  16. gearheadbill
    Joined: Oct 11, 2002
    Posts: 1,339

    gearheadbill
    Member

    Get PIXresizer. Absolutely the easiest way to re-size your photos. Free download.

    http://pixresizer.en.softonic.com/
     
  17. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Thanks! I'll give it a try.
     
  18. PBRmeASAP
    Joined: Aug 26, 2002
    Posts: 6,893

    PBRmeASAP
    Member

    Looking great....and thank god you kept the chevy front!
     
  19. CHOP36
    Joined: May 7, 2007
    Posts: 154

    CHOP36
    Member

    Jim it Looks great. 43 years ago today Dec 24 1967 ,i bought it ,I know it is in good hands.You are doing it the right way Thanks Marwyn
     
  20. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Thanks, you're a good friend, but I can't figure out why your wife puts up with you. Wash that '36.
     
  21. wingman9
    Joined: Dec 30, 2009
    Posts: 804

    wingman9
    Member
    from left coast

    To answer your original question, these guys made a sill out of sheet metal that is the same shape as the wooden sill. I'm working on a '32 Chev 5 window and I'm having the same problem.
    Check out this site: http://www.egbertsstreetrods.com/32chevy.htm
     

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  22. sensor
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 82

    sensor
    Member

  23. Wingman9 and sensor....thanks for the links! I really believe that a 31/32 Chevy coupes with metal inner members make an awesome hotrod ..... and truly unique too!
     
  24. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Yea, thanks Wingman and Sensor, great info. Everybody, keep it coming, we have cars to build! Here's a few pictures I took not long after I got the car. I took off the fenders, hood and running boards. Then I yanked the motor and trans which I will use over. Switched to a 4" drop tube front axle and steering from Mustang to Vega cross steer. New front springs and "Harrison" style shackles. Drum brakes to disc. A partial box of the front frame and switched the motor mount plate with side mounts. The body is now off the frame. I am going to finish the rear frame and springs and then figure out the subframe, that seems to be my biggest dilemma.
     

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  25. Chopper ....you are gonna be ready to drive in the Spring!!! Nice 32!
     
  26. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Words of encouragement, thanks, but I wish I shared your optomism.
     
  27. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    Here's a 34 roadster floor I finished off what someone else started. Tubing with a skin over the top.
    [​IMG]
     
  28. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

  29. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Nice work! Is that 3/4" or 1" tubing?

    My progress is steady but s..l..o..w.....
     

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  30. 1938ute
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 75

    1938ute
    Member
    from australia

    I think it was 3/4", it was a few years ago.
     

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