Wingman, that looks sweet! Did you fabricate the crossmember yourself? I wasn't going to box the rear of my frame, but now you're making me think. You can see in the pics I got the back of the frame stripped down to the rails. I'm having new springs bent and using shorter modern shackles and bushings to help drop the rear end. The rear is a 456:1 posi out of a '57 Chevy that I think I am going to use over. I this sounds unbelievable but I filled over 150 holes that had been drilled in the frame over the years.
I bought the crossmember as a kit from Progressive Automotive in Ohio. It still had to be welded together and trimmed for my specific frame but it saved a lot of labor. I also don't have a tube bender so it was a no-brainer. I would suggest boxing the rear, especially since you're using leaf springs. I'm sure there's a pretty good load at the rear shackles although the gas tank panel probably helps to stiffen things. I can feel your pain about the holes. That's next.
Here's my front end, just about done. And here's where I stand with the rear. I think you're right Wingman, I ordered rear boxing plates from Progressive, I'm not sure if I can swing the crossmember though.
Here's what I did on my 33 Chevy Cabriolet. I used 1.5 X 3 rectangular tubing and copied the layout of the original wood sills.
I really like the way you built your body sub-frame TFoch....would you duplicate those sub rails for me?
Chopper526, here is a picture of how it's mounted to the ch***is using the original mounting brackets. Also a picture of the cowl mount and rear mount.
Sandbarfarm31 I can't make them for you but I could send you a drawing if you wanted to try to make them yourself.
Thanks TFoch, that's a big help. In the picture of the cowl mount it looks like it sits a little lower than the subframe, are you channeling this a couple inches? Jim
Not channeling it, that's the same height as it was with the original wood. The rocker panels sit on top of the sills and all the body panels line up. I'll take some pictures when I get a little further along.
I used 1.5 x 3 inch tubing for the main part of the subrails, not 2x3 as stated in JefferyJames post. It was the closest dimensionally to the original wood. The rear kickup was 1x3 placed upright and mated at the same angle as the original wood pieces. The crossmembers were also 1x3. The lower door sills are boxed in with sheetmetal like a regular rocker panel and do sit with the lower edge lower than the subrail..more later....
This is a shot from the underside of the subrail outside of the frame. looking down into the rocker panel behind the p***. door in front of the wheel well
Junkyard, those pictures are great and a huge help. I think I see, the bottom of the main subrails do not sit flush with the bottom of the bottom of the rocker, the rocker sits an inch, or so, lower. Does the rear of the body sit lower on the subrails than the front? Because my body was channeled I have no wood left in the subframe. Can you tell what the length of your main subrails are? Also, (I hope this makes sense) at the back end of the main subrail where it fits in between the frame and the body (at the wheelwell); how wide is that? I don't want to sound stupid, but because there is no wood subframe the body is very flimsy, so I don't have a clue how wide the base of the body should be or how the body should be situated on the subframe. Thanks, Jim
My progress is s..l..o..w.. but I'm still moving forward. I sent the trans out for a rebuild. I've gone about as far as I am going to with the frame, I added some boxing plates and a poor man's K member. I am going to take the rear out one more time, finish and paint the frame, detail and install the rear and springs. I should have the trans back by then, drop the drivetrain in with a new trans crossmember and we'll see how it sits.
A true X center section would be a better idea. To me, I think you will end up with some flexing of the body with the K being so far back. If there is no motor in yet, and no front axle in it yet, try grabbing the two front frame horns to try to twist the frame. If you do get movement just by hand, you really should beef it up. The body will take a beating from too much flex.
Heres my K-Member Shouldn't be too had for you to replicate. its 1/8" 1.5 by 1.5 I'd Box the rest of the frame and cut those remove those pieces youve added to the original rear cross member. Put the K member in when you ready, when the ******s sitting in place
Thanks Junkyard that's a real help. Can you tell me the overall length of the main subrail ? How was basketball? Jim
Detailed the rear. In the process of taking apart and detailing the rear leaf springs I had made. Just about finished the frame, except on the adice of some HAMBers I think I am going to remove the K frame and put in something a little beefier. Also waiting for my trans to come back from the shop.
Chopper, we should get together sometime... I have some good ideas that I plan on putting into my Chevy's... Also, for your k member, have you heard of Fazzio's here in south jersey? They can make you what you need. I planed on using them to fab my k members and boxing plates.
Hey HRK, sounds good to me. I'm in northeast Philly, where you at in south Jersey? I've never heard of Fazzio's, I cut out the K member I put in and I was going to do a crossmember out of 1 1/2" square tube. I moved the car this weekend and it is now suspended on a lift so I can raise and lower it on the frame. Jim
Jim, It looks great.You were right the frame sits nice and looks good. Now you can get to the body easier on the lift. Marwyn
Jim, I'm near Deptford. I'm in Horsham most weekends though. I was going to make a 3/16" c channel type k member similar to how they make them for the 32 ford ch***is with a drop out center. Fazzio's is a huge steel supplier/fabrication yard about 45 minutes from the northeast. They have everything metal that you can imagine. If you go there, give them the measurements you need, they will cut and bend to your specs right there on the spot in front of you. Prices are good too... The steel to frame out both my coupe and roadster, and box the frame will be less than $500. They are open mon-fri 8-4:30 and sat 8-noon. Let me know if you want to go sometime... Joe Sent from my Android using Tapatalk
Got the frame about where I thought I wanted it and lowered the body down.....way too high. Took out the front axle and springs. I am going to reverse the eyes in the front springs and see what that does, I may also use a slightly smaller tire up front. The rear of the frame....way too high. Even though I reduced the arch in the springs by over two inches and used shackles an inch smaller, I am still 3-4" too high. So, I may reverse the eyes in the rear springs and try lowering blocks. Any other ideas?
Hey Joe, so far I have been using a guy near where I work, with pretty good success, for metal. I have decided to make an X member out of 1 1/2" square tube that I have. I am just waiting to get my trans back so I can fit everything in. I live about 15 minutes from Horsham off of Street Rd. maybe you want to stop by some weekend on your way home. Jim
Finally got the metal tubing for the subframe main rails, hope to start that next week. Also, after seven weeks I was promised to get the trans back this week.....hmmmmm only one day left. I also had the eyes in both front and rear springs reversed, it lowered the frame almost two inches. The biggest problem I had after rearching the springs was that there was only about an eigth of an inch clearance between the pitman arm and drag link. So, I am going to try an offset pitman arm and hope that does the trick. While I have been waiting for the trans and metal tubing I started filling the holes in the firewall and cowl area. I have filled over sixty holes, big and small so far.
Finally got my trans back and put the drivetrain in this past weekend. I was going to buy a tubular trans mount, but now I think I am going to try and fabricate something off of the 1 1/2" crossmember I put in. I also took a page out of Junkyardroad's and JeffreyJames' book and made my own subframe rails out of 1 1/2" x 3" square tube. My ability doesn't compare to these guys (or most on this site) but I think it's good enough to do the trick. I have one problem now; after I had the eyes on the springs reversed, there is only about 1/4" clearance between the center link and the front springs and 1/8" clearance between the center link and the pitman arm. Any ideas? Please feel free to criticize or give me ideas, this is my first street rod.
Thanks, Junkyard. Unfortunately that steering box mount is welded in tight! The pitman arm that's on there is chrome, I guess if I heat it I will probably damage the chrome. The more I look at this I think my best way out now is to just get a new pitman arm and try to sell the one I have and chalk it up. What do you think about the spring/centerlink clearance? Do you think the best, cheapest way might be to just add a short leaf to the bottom to raise it up a bit? I have seen offset tie rod ends, but I think it would be trial and error to get the right ones. Thanks for all your help. Jim
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